Adventurer 12 volt fridge

[Trotter]

I’m having a problem with the recently installed Adveturer fridge.
The compressor sometimes fails to connect.
As an example, yesterday I checked the fridge, both compartments, fridge and freezer, were at +4.
This morning, fridge at +4, freezer-13.
I have noticed during the time I’ve had it, the freezer compartment temperature does vary. Also, on occasion there is frosting on food packaging. Perhaps this is a sign that the freezer has failed, and then restarted freezing again.
Has anyone an idea of how to test its function?

 

[wildebus]

I would recommend this .... https://amzn.to/48cblGK. Double-pack ... you could have one in fridge and one in freezer.
Bluetooth/Wi-Fi enabled thermometer that will give you a minute-by-minute report on a temperature. Very useful for troubleshooting precisely the issue you have.
Also, while the temp changes relatively slowly up and down, the humidity reading is much more variable and interesting is connected to when the compressor is running or not so it becomes very easy to see when it is active or not.

 

[Trotter]

Thank you for the advice. My main concern is how to test if the compressor is working properly. I do expect to have to replace the fridge. But I’d rather fault find and possibly repair.

An alternative to the 12 volt, I have a 3000 w inverter, so a domestic fridge could be cheaper. Any thoughts on that?
I know Jeff has been using one in his van for ages.

 

[wildebus]

Thank you for the advice. My main concern is how to test if the compressor is working properly. I do expect to have to replace the fridge. But I’d rather fault find and possibly repair.

If you want to check if the compressor is working, combine a device like I linked to to monitor the temperature with a device to read the current - A battery monitor or a clamp meter.
What you could do - and you need a way to read the temp with the door closed for it to make any sense - is turn on the fridge to the coldest setting and use the App from the battery to look at the current draw.
A compressor fridge/freezer will take maybe 90 minutes to reach operating temp (~-18C) from ambient, and while the compressor is running, it will draw ~5A more or less. Check those two parameters. If very slow to drop and still running; or if compressor is staying on more than it should (should be on around 1/3rd of the time or so) then it would point to a problem.

You could check the basics as well ... nothing stopping the door seal from closing all the way around? get a slight opening and you are buggered! Very easy for a filled fridge to make the door slightly open, but not enough to see. Had that with our mini-freezer a couple of times when a box is slightly too large and everything gets frosted after a while - which is what you are seing I think?

An alternative to the 12 volt, I have a 3000 w inverter, so a domestic fridge could be cheaper. Any thoughts on that?
I know Jeff has been using one in his van for ages.

Would be for sure. The one I had for sale was good but now fitted into Reiverlads van

 

[Molly 3]

Just a long shot are all vents clear of observations

 

[Trotter]

Just a long shot are all vents clear of observations

Yup.
Following David’s advice, I’m ensuring the door is closed each time I’ve opened it. Instead of letting it close, I’ll lean against the door.
All day yesterday the fridge and freezer were maintaining temperatures. I checked several times. I’ll do the same today.
I phoned Hayhiker, who has the same fridge. He says that he hasn’t had any issues with his. Although talking about the door, he said that he has a closure lip on top of the door. Mine doesn’t protrude above the door. Maybe his is spring loaded, mine isn’t.

Tbh, I still think the compressor sometimes doesn’t kick in. Only time will tell.

 

[wildebus]

Yup.
Following David’s advice, I’m ensuring the door is closed each time I’ve opened it. Instead of letting it close, I’ll lean against the door.
All day yesterday the fridge and freezer were maintaining temperatures. I checked several times. I’ll do the same today.

FWIW, I've got a temp sensor on the freezer section of my Fridge/Freezer (that sensor value is what controls the power feed in my setup) and it is quite remarkable just how fast the temperature goes up when the door is left open for just a couple of minutes. If I am restocking it, it can go up by 10C or more very easily. (I always try to take the baskets out and close the door ASDP but you still end up opening and closing the door a fair amount).

I phoned Hayhiker, who has the same fridge. He says that he hasn’t had any issues with his. Although talking about the door, he said that he has a closure lip on top of the door. Mine doesn’t protrude above the door. Maybe his is spring loaded, mine isn’t.

Tbh, I still think the compressor sometimes doesn’t kick in. Only time will tell.

Ref compressor, a common issue with compressor fridges is when the cable used is insufficient gauge for current in-rush, which makes the voltage drop below the threshold required to start up the compressor (the in-rush current can be upto 20x the running current). So you get a localised low-voltage issue even though the battery is fine.
This will be less of an issue on a Lithium Battery setup as you are already sitting at around 0.5V higher than a Lead Battery, but it is still a possibility if the cable is significantly undersized, excessive cable run or there are already highish loads on the battery that is causing it to drop in voltage (say if cooking device like Induction Hob, Airfryer or Microwave on).

If you have a Multimeter, put it on the fridge DC terminals, switch on the fridge and turn the 'stat down and see what the voltage drops to. This in-rush is VERY short lived so you may not be able to see it? If you have a Min-Max option (some do), then put it on that once connected to terminals and see what it drops to over a time.

 

[Trotter]

Hi David. Your suggestion is what I thought was possibly happening.
But…
The supplier has given me a hack to make sure the door shuts properly, involving a piece of paper and a bit of door manipulation. Put the paper between the two door faces and try to pull the paper out. There should be some resistance. There was at the top, not so at the bottom. All equal now, and the temperature “seems” to be holding. I’ll be keeping an eye on that for a few days. Apparently, when reversing the door hinges, they don’t always fit. I’ve done that, and now I’ll check to see if that makes any difference. It looks okay so far.

I would like to say, thank you to David, Jeff , Rob and Barry for taking an interest in my plight.
Fingers crossed, it could be sorted.

 

[wildebus]

good stuff will be a nice easy fix hopefully
Your post about checking with a piece of paper reminds me of when I had this freezer issue, one of the things I tried was taking the door seal and going around the door squeezing it closer left to right to try and make it stick out a bit more

 

[trevskoda]

On my 230v fridge i put a over lock on the top spare oposit hinge, works 100%, and good on bumpy roads.