Buffer compounds.

sydnsue

sydnsue

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I recently used Fenwicks on my windows but it was hard work and it didn't go far. Is there a suitable alternative that could be used with a buffer and also that would brighten up the bodywork. I know people recommend T Cut and Brasso but not sure if they are ok with a buffer.
 
Go to a proper body store and buy farslea g3 or 6 compound, use it wet by hand or electric buff, be careful and keep moving, watch on edges, best left to a pro.
 
T-Cut is a very aggressive cutting compound. I don't think I would use that on a machine (or at all!) unless what I was doing was so far gone it won't matter that much if it went wrong!
G3 is popular in the trade but again is one which you need to know what you are doing. Trevs advise is very wise - you have to be very careful and especially on the edges - a quick polish can turn into a respray requirement and on a Ducato, I think the paintwork is pretty thin and soft to start with. On the Motorhome body you need to check on a small area first (maybe a locker door that can be easily repainted if worse comes to worse?)

My personal "go to" product is the 3M Perfect-it range. Controllable, not to aggressive so maybe takes a little longer but it is safer because of it.
Used it on my old VW T4 (VWs have very hard paint) and got a fair result.
The classic 50:50 shot ....

50:50 Bonnet by David, on Flickr

But remember, all polishing of paintwork is achieved by removing the top surface of paint (or clearcoat) and if it is done too much or too often (or there is not enough to start with) you end up with nothing!
Pad after the partial bonnet polish ....

Pad after Polish by David, on Flickr
 
I've always used T-Cut, but on an orbital polisher, the cheapo eBay ones so no heat builds up and I also have a spray bottle of soapy water to keep it wet, you still get swirls but I expect you would get that even by hand and I go over them with a resin polish which makes the rain bead off.
 
Pudsey Bear said:
I've always used T-Cut, but on an orbital polisher, the cheapo eBay ones so no heat builds up and I also have a spray bottle of soapy water to keep it wet, you still get swirls but I expect you would get that even by hand and I go over them with a resin polish which makes the rain bead off.
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With the right product, you can eliminate swirls for sure :)

My Toyota RAV4 when I bought it at 10 years old. Paintwork was good but very swirly.

Swirls by David, on Flickr


Some work with a MOP and 3M Perfect-it kit

Polished by David, on Flickr
 
The swirls are still there, just a lot smaller.
 
wildebus said:
In my picture? no, that is the metal flake in the paint.
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I can't tell of course from a picture David, but all compounds and polishes if applied by machine by their very nature leave scratches it's just that they become less visible with finer and finer polishes.

I do like that met green though, lovely colour.
 
Pudsey Bear said:
I can't tell of course from a picture David, but all compounds and polishes if applied by machine by their very nature leave scratches it's just that they become less visible with finer and finer polishes.

I do like that met green though, lovely colour.
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yup, that is right - and by hand same as machine - and eventually they get too fine to see as you go up in grade.
Same car whilst I was renovating the headlamps .... The right and left ones looked the same before I started on the passenger side one :)
This was sanding the lens with 500 grit.

666Head-S1_Post_500-3 by David, on Flickr
Went through 500-1000-2000-4000, then onto the Plastic Restorer and Plastic Polisher

666Head-S6_Headlights_Renovated by David, on Flickr

(I didn't really need to start at the 500 as not that bad but wanted a full series to post on my Forum to show even really bad ones can be fixed as long as they are not physically cracked).


That car looked lovely (the Green was gorgeous) and was actually the most desirable model of that generation (3 Door Automatic), but I later found it was a rust-bucket underneath. Cost over £1/mile in repairs until I sold it 6 months later.
 
I had to do our vans headlamps it might have failed it's MOT, guess what I used.



I bought one of these, and used soapy water and a green scotchbrite pad to do the worst then soapy water and T-Cut, not the best finish but good enough.

1664466958880.png1664467103970.png1664467165317.png
 
I find T cut a poor mans tool, use g3 but little and wet by hand on a small part of the van to you get used to how it works, once you get the nack you will never look back, jes im a poet and dot know it.
 
meguiars ultimate compound, don't need to wet, just hold DA and keep it moving. 2' by 2' areas at a time
 
trevskoda said:
I find T cut a poor mans tool, use g3 but little and wet by hand on a small part of the van to you get used to how it works, once you get the nack you will never look back, jes im a poet and dot know it.
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You're a Tw** and we know that.

Only to finish the phrase of course :D :D
 
I know the Farcala gear is very popular but I could never get on with it :(

But I really like the 3M Perfect-it kit. Colour-coded liquids and pads and fairly idiot-proof - https://www.3m.co.uk/3M/en_GB/colli...hing-and-finishing/compounding-and-polishing/

FWIW, I also hate DA (Dual Action) Machines. Takes a long time (which does make them safer to use, but frustratingly so) but gives me the old 'white finger' after a short time. Much prefer the MOP (Machine Orbital Polisher) which is also both faster AND cheaper :)
 
You want a slow speed mop/polisher or you will burn the paint, keep the surface very wet and go light watching the edges, had the front cut out of this baby and front resprayed & polished all over.red skoda sold.jpg
 
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Did you ever save up enough to get a real car Trev ;) ;)
 
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