Calorifier fitting

Backitupjack

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Hi all, wasn't quite sure were to post this one, after some advise / help on connecting up a Calorifier to the vans engine heater hoses, confused because i have read and seen a couple of videos that show different ways, some cut in to both heater hoses as they emerge from the bulkhead in to the engine bay and some just cut in to 1 and return to the same hose, one guy even saying always buy a twin coil calorifier and connect the heater hoses to both coils to heat the water up quicker, i am fine with all the calorifier / expansion tank / hot and cold water feeds it just the connecting to the engine hoses that's confusing any help would be appreciated,
Thanks
 
I have this 30L Single coil Horizontal Calorifier I am about to fit in my Crafter.

I will be installing it in series with the heater matrix by removing or cutting the return flow hose from the heater matrix and connecting the return from the heater matrix side to the Calorifiers coil (the Surecal manual indicates that to be the RH port which may or may not actually matter) I will then take the LH port back to the engine block side of the original heater matrix hose.

This is to ensure on cold days, as the engine warms up, that the heater matrix still gets the available heat first, otherwise defrosting the screen could take forever and it still might!

You need to remember without fitting bypass valves that this setup will work in reverse to a degree as well, during a cold start any residual heat in the calorifier will be dissipated into the cold engine block and might assist in warming it up slightly.

End result will be a rapidly cooling tank though hence not a good idea to go for a five minute drive down the road and then stop for a shower!

Depending on how well this works as a source of DHW especially when off grid for a few days I may or may not also fit a block heater in the same water circuit seeing as I have a couple sitting spare on the shelf.

My Calorifier currently has a 1.2KW 230v immersion as well which might get replaced with a 300W 12V version which could make use of spare Solar and would still work on mains hook up via the mains battery charger.

I also have a spare rear passenger area heater matrix from a black cab similar to the one linked below complete with two speed fan and I may install that in the garage area at the back of the van as well eventually as these are great for eliminating condensation.


Getting DHW like this is a bit of a faff, In my Sprinter I have a far simpler and more effective system one of those dirt cheap instantaneous water heaters it's worked flawlessly for the last three years and for the £70 it cost has been brilliant, unfortunately I don't have room to fit a flue for one in my Crafter.
 
This may be a numb question but doesn't connecting it this way mean that water will only circulate through the clarifier if the van heater is set to warm.
 
This may be a numb question but doesn't connecting it this way mean that water will only circulate through the clarifier if the van heater is set to warm.
This is obviously something I need to double check first on my own vehicle. I am pretty sure my Crafter uses an air blend system to direct airflow over the heater matrix when required via various mechanical flaps in the heater box but some vehicles do use a water blend system and then there’s usually a permanent airflow over the matrix

I remember one notorious example the MG ZT V8 ( I owned two of them once upon a time) MGR probably ran out of money redesigning the hvac system to fit around the gearbox and fitted an electric three way valve that didn’t fully seal when closed It was prone to still allow coolant through the matrix when off which got worse over time as the rubber seals hardened and failed, end result was an increasingly luke warm aircon system which combined with the heat soak from the engine and box into the cabin made it quite warm in the summer.

One of my cars was supercharged and close to 400bhp at the rear wheels made up for it though!
 
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Don't be lazy, connect it in parallel with the heater matrix. Also fit balance taps at both the heather matrix and the calorifier.
Have a search on the Motorhome Builder site, I think there are a few posts on the subject.
 
My Sprinter has a SureJust calorifier and an Eberspacher Hydronic D5. I can probably get pictures of how/where the pipes are connected if it helps, I sat probably as it will depend if I can see them okay.
I don’t think fitting two sets of pipes to the calorifier would make much difference, the water constantly flows round the engine, radiator and calorifier so they all rise at approximately the same temperature. It is worth getting a calorifier with twin coils so you could add another way of heating later if your style of use calls for it. I spend days on end without moving which mean I am not heating the water, I have looked at getting one of the Bobil vans heat exchangers to heat water via my Eberspacher DT4 air heater but I would need to either change the calorifier to twin coil or have it as a separate system, same would apply if you wanted to add a gas water heater at a later date.
 
On my mitsubishi motorhome, it uses 2 pipes (factory fitted) from the engine to the rear hab area heat exchanger and air conditioner, because the cab heater shuts off its water flow when cold is selected.
A parallel connection like this would be the best way I think, and makes the calorifier independant.
 
As is often the case contradiction is the norm on most forums & as I can't now edit my previous post I will contradict myself!

As I mentioned I needed to check how VW/MB normally do it and I will be doing mine in Parallel after all.
Including the probable need to add and experiment with a couple of balance/isolation valves though.

For those with a Sprinter based Crafter, or a Sprinter TN3 this document below especially page 34 is very handy as it shows how to connect up a secondary heat exchanger and or a parking heater, no balance valves are shown but that may just be a simplification of the drawing.

 
On my mitsubishi motorhome, it uses 2 pipes (factory fitted) from the engine to the rear hab area heat exchanger and air conditioner, because the cab heater shuts off its water flow when cold is selected.
A parallel connection like this would be the best way I think, and makes the calorifier independant.
Yep absolutely because you seem to be describing your controls as using a water blend system.
 
As is often the case contradiction is the norm on most forums & as I can't now edit my previous post I will contradict myself!

As I mentioned I needed to check how VW/MB normally do it and I will be doing mine in Parallel after all.
Including the probable need to add and experiment with a couple of balance/isolation valves though.

For those with a Sprinter based Crafter, or a Sprinter TN3 this document below especially page 34 is very handy as it shows how to connect up a secondary heat exchanger and or a parking heater, no balance valves are shown but that may just be a simplification of the drawing.

Hi there - I am interested in whether you completed this installation or not? Or if there is anywhere you can direct me to which would give me guidance on how to connect a calorifier in a Sprinter van? I am continually drawing blanks on how to do this and getting rather frustrated. Many thanks in advance.
 
Hi there - I am interested in whether you completed this installation or not? Or if there is anywhere you can direct me to which would give me guidance on how to connect a calorifier in a Sprinter van? I am continually drawing blanks on how to do this and getting rather frustrated. Many thanks in advance.
 
I have posted reply on motorhomebuilder.com thread
 

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