My Self Build

[Pudsey Bear]

My Self Build

I have a lot of pics of my build so ten a day or the forum will fall over.

I farmed out the back windows, it was only £20 more than DIY, and I learned how it was supposed to be done from a pro, remove sole plate and down use tape, slow and steady, did them all the same way cut the servies holes like that too.

Please ask any questions as the thread progresses and I'll do my best to answer them.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

 

[Pudsey Bear]

 

[Pudsey Bear]

 

[Pudsey Bear]

I don't seem to be able to add any text to the post, if I do it first it puts it at the bottom, and can't add any between the pictures to explain them, also almost all have a description in the file name, any way see that?

 

[HurricaneSmith]

Having previously built a car I recognise just how much effort went into your build, Kev. What software did you use for the schematics?

I remember lying on my back in the tub as I completed the wiring loom, finalising and testing connections. I couldn't do it these days as my back isn't up to it.

Very well done on a quality build, and I look forward to seeing any further photos.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

I used a online program called floorplanner first, but it wasn't good enough as it was meant for houses, if you could see the file name it would tell you it was Libre open office.

I think I may try a different way to show them so I can give info on each pic if needed, this way is frustrating.

Know what you mean about back, I have deteriorated badly since doing the build, couldn't do another one

 

[Pudsey Bear]

021 I used this section to make a new SLD hold back for new door position. After shortening the central slider rail, it needed a new stop at the bottom, this section when cut off and bent a little made a the perfect piece to stop the SLD hitting the open Seitz window.




022 26 Inside of SLD showing window hole, note strut is cut right back to allow the inner frame to fit.



023 26a SLD hole showing incorrect marking out, window would have been 25mm to the left of center OOPS nearly. Proving measure twice and cut once works well.



024 26b SLD window hole cut, need to tidy up the mess in front of the garage.



025 26d SLD inner frame and blind right way up this time, note copious use of red lead paint, it's a 250ml tin, so use plenty of it, you have more than enough to do ten vans

.


This way works, but I have to add each picture individually, and also the file name.

Is there a better way Phil???

 

[Pudsey Bear]

026 down nearside showing both windows and modified SLD rail, with end cap painted and replaced properly, could maybe have removed 10mm more.



027 28 using frame to mark out hole for omnistor 3 speed two way fan



028 29 Omnistore hole cut filed and red leaded



029 29a Omnistore outside - not good on the knees this roof cleaning



030 29b Omnistor fitted minus internal cover



031 34b Trunking NS, note the use of T junctions with cover plates, get plenty and use them, remember where they are for later when you fit the wires you forgot about


032 34b Trunking OS



033 34c Trunking over rear doors for camera and lights


034 37 Looking down on floor 18 inch centres at rear, red lead on anything which even looked like it might rust



035 38 Roof battens held in place with screws and Stixall, I wet them and left them suspended between two bricks for a week, with brick weighing down the centre so they took on a curve, once dried out I fixed them up.

 

[Phillybarbour]

Great pics of the progress, hope all goes well.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

036 36 Heki masked for spray foam - tip use double sided tape



037 39a spray foam being done by Andy at MPI in Bolton


038 39b spray foam


039 39c spray foam, arches and floor did get sprayed too


040 40A Solar panel rear showing mounting plates


041 40B Solar panel rear connection box


042 40C Solar panel spec

 

[Pudsey Bear]

045 45a Fresh water inlet partially cut, note no sole plate on Jig Saw.


046 45b Fresh water inlet hole cut, I did neaten it later, see thickness of spray foam around the hole. you can also just see the black mark left by the jig saw, had I used a sole plate the risk of paint damage would be much greater, as is, whatever the hole is for it will get covered up.


047 45c Fresh water inlet test fitted prior to sikaflex and final fit

048 49c water inlet inside, and messing about in my corner with sparky stuff


049 44a 240v inlet hole marked out and ready for jig sawing


050 44c 240 inlet hole filed smooth ready for inlet fitting

 

[Pudsey Bear]

051 44d 240 inlet finished outside and fitted

.

052 44e 240 inlet from inside


053 46a Original position for 2 x 125ah LBs off Ebay £150, but found that with minimal effort they would fit under the driver or passenger seat 2013-04-12 16.46.06


054 46f I tried them under the drivers seat even though it looked tight, the seat springs did not come anywhere near the posts despite how it looks, and I had a 3mm plastic sheet above just in case. 2013-04-12 17.03.40


055 46g with a few mods to the underseat harness they fit easily (see 053 for model) 2013-04-12 17.04.34


056 put wires into a split piece of 42mm plastic waste pipe , shove them forward enough to drop the LBs in which holds them in position, it's a tight fit, need 10mm batten to level LBs


057 see spreaders moving harness forward, to be held in place with split 42mm pipe, cut a third out of the diameter along its length, and the LBs hold them in place 2013-04-13 13.11.00


058 I moved these from B pillar base to under the drivers seat for easier access after the build, wires are long enough as is, I also solved the draught problem while I was at it, and I did the nearside later 2013-04-13 10.19.31


059 Electrics to be moved from B pillar base to alongside the LBs under the drivers seat for later access if needed, I believe they are for the seat belt
warning lights 2013-04-13 10.20.19


060 Gubbins behind the drivers side step plastic cover, large plastic box is the sat nav thingy from Citroen, it never worked, but I
left it anyway. 2013-04-13 10.22.53

 

[Pudsey Bear]

062 47b after spray foam 2013-04-21 15.59.36


063 47c after spray foam, corner moldings etc up out of the way, but easy to get at later 2013-04-21 15.59.44


064 47d after spray foam and over cab locker before wrapping, it took a little time to get it right on the cardboard template, but it was my first one so fairly happy with it 2013-04-21 15.59.58


065 47e this is my step ladder, but I really miss my real ladder, forward batten was about 10mm to far forward rubbish planning there 2013-04-21 16.01.40


066 48 first ceiling panel 2013-04-26 13.44.56


067 49a hokey cokey back board temporarily in place


068 49b and out again to do more wiring


069 49d some more cable run and back board tempo in place to cut slots


070 49e make yourself a BIG square and check it often, you cannot rely on a spirit level when you are moving around inside the van, Roofing square was invaluable too, see solar reg in place for the first time, and holes below for cabling

 

[Pudsey Bear]

071 50a solar temp mounted, first 4 of 6 holes drilled 2013-05-03 15.24.57


072 51e the SCARIEST part of the build really, the hole for the loo cassette door opening 2013-05-07 15.35.18


073 51c inside the cassette door hole, showing temp timber in place, the pipe you see is a waste pipe for running
cables through later 2013-05-07 15.25.47


074 51g Start of boxing, note use of KD connectors, we like them a LOT, you can also see the first positioning of


the LB Ctek 5 amp charger, it was moved later on


075 51f with door surround temporarily in place till Stixall goes off 2013-05-08 12.49.27


076 52b back to sparks, see tidied up terminals with heat shrink sleeving, I was a bit annoyed that there was no
cover for the bottom to hide ugly wiring, or an option to come in from the rear, ooer Mrs 2013-05-15 16.50.40


077 53a Controller, Switch panel and Volt meter, left switch on control panel controlled which battery you saw
displayed on the volt meter below VB or LBs, I looked at lots of switches, and found this (Zig SP-4)
the simplest to use and mount 2013-05-15 16.50.29


078 52a I ended up moving these, Ctek fitted, B pillar cover on, wall up, filler pipe access hole,
now moved to below in a sparks box see other pics 2013-05-10 11.07.42


079 56a new place for inverter, Ctek charger, and water inlet looking down between driver
seat and bathroom wall, see later pic when finished

 

[trevskoda]

Very nice well done,just two points,first wires coming through at side should either have grommets or a length of garden hose to stop chafing,second why not cut the plug of charger and feed from fuse trip box saving you all that plug /socket stuff.
I have one of those ehu side inlet boxes and it let water in like mad through the back hole,do cut a drain slot at bottom of outer door so if any gets in it will just run out again,flooded my carpet on pas side.

 

[trevskoda]

Also wanted to ask about the seitz window as i have one,where do you get the side top bottom infil to hide screws.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Very nice well done,just two points,first wires coming through at side should either have grommets or a length of garden hose to stop chafing,second why not cut the plug of charger and feed from fuse trip box saving you all that plug /socket stuff.
I have one of those ehu side inlet boxes and it let water in like mad through the back hole,do cut a drain slot at bottom of outer door so if any gets in it will just run out again,flooded my carpet on pas side.

Which wires are you referring to please? I always use proper grommets, hose pipe is a poor substitute.

if I had cut the charger plug off it would have invalidated the warranty, and it worked fine that way, it could also be easily removed to charge the VB if required.

the 240v inlet was sealed around the outer surface, these are a very old design, tried and tested for decades, so I don't know how yours came to leak.

the screw covers are called perforations, order from a caravan dealer, you need the S4 size code off the window pane, or S5 if the concertina blind type.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Also wanted to ask about the seitz window as i have one,where do you get the side top bottom infil to hide screws.

I cannot find them anywhere, annoying as I bought some 3 years ago, either leisurespares or leisuresparesdirect. I assume it's the S5 you have with the concertina blinds, you need the ones similar to this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seitz-he...419107&hash=item283757b033:g:4jIAAOSw-7RVFtIf

the S4s have a simple bung https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Set-of-t...g-screws-and-screw-covers-SBSC2-/182603343975

 

[Pudsey Bear]

080 loo n tray in place to see if the heater hoses would fit, but ended up moving to the other side of tray to accommodate the electrics behind loo wall, I should have left them there 0130512_113433




081 54a First ever wallboard template cut done, scary at the price of them, so I scribed direct to a 3mm ply template, it fitted
like a glove


082 54b Top of ply template, I used cardboard as it easier to mess with and
I found there were differences in the vans metal roof height


083 54c Just add bits using double sided tape til its a snug fit, then transfer it to the lightweight ply


084 55a then take a very large breath and cut your first expensive sheet, PHEW, outer front loo wall in position

085 55b nice snug fit, you can see the u shaped plastic track which holds the wall in place,
I found some matching beige silicone to seal the track to the board,
this board was a cheapo paper faced ply, So I got some aerosol cans of stain lacquer
made up and I sprayed each board to waterproof it, never saw any marks on them


086 55c other side of wall in 085 shows control panel, solar reg and volt meter for VB looks weird but it is straight.
You can see to the left the blue carpet covered overcab locker, I never did put a door on it, but nothing ever fell out


087 57a shower tray side supports, I have read of so many problems with
shower trays cracking I did my best to make sure this £27 one didn't, it is still
100% watertight


088 57b shower tray bottom support fully bonded to base with Stixall no way this is going to flex and crack,
I offered it up to the floor in position, and drilled through with a 300mm long drill both waste positions,
as it turned out one was directly over the chassis so couldn't be used, so one got welded and just to be sure
stixalled it too never leaked to my knowledge


089 58a back side of shower and left side of wardrobe decorative ply in situ, holes are there as this is where the
main fuse board will be located later and the back ply is the back of the fridge housing, a lot of work there,
and more to do yet, top fridge vent to figure out and cut, bottom one already done,
this was to fit a full height fridge freezer, pump was later moved, wish I left the heater piping where it was
in the earlier picture, see the kinking, I'd not accounted for the width of the corner profile, fortunately this part of
the pipe only went to a vent facing the back of the driver seat, as I sit up there a lot reading and watching the
world go by so wanted heat when parked 2013-06-14 11.44.43



091 62a Truma E4000 in place on it's original plinth, now moved to outside wall on right,
as it was a better use of space 2013-06-15 17.39.45