Scratches in perspex windows, can they be polished out?

Can someone tell me "How long to polish for?"
How long to get the desired results?

It all depends how bad your lights are.

Just like when doing the windows with 'T' Cut it is very much do it, polishit off, if not the result you are looking for do it again and so on until you are pleased with the result.

Mind you when it comes to the light covers, I believe that some times they can fog up from the inside and in cases like that the only answer is to replace them.

Phil
 
Just one point of note on this: most polishes are in themselves abrasive so will also scratch the surface they are used on albeit in a minor way. That is why car detailers will polish first and then wax to seal afterwards. The normal act of polishing your car for example, takes off a micro thin layer of paint each time, which also takes off all the very minor surface scratches. This is then sealed with wax.

If I was taking out scratches I would follow any/all the instructions given but then at the end use a sealer rather than a(nother) polish.

Obviously deeper scratches need more work and the chap in the first video on page 1 showed how to do this with the 3 different types of rubbing paper he used.

T-Cut is just an abrasive polish and needs careful use on paint, certainly.

Also just be really, really careful if you do use a drill as a rotary polisher as any heat generated could be a disaster...as could any grit caught between the soft head and the vehicle body/window etc. I guess a drill can be used as a stop gap polisher but if this is something that you would be doing regularly it would be as well to invest in a proprietary rotary polisher with the correct attachment discs. Most car detailing websites would have recommendations on them so probably worth shopping around.

Graham :)
 
I used a poundland version of t-cut on my offside window after the Welsh mountain walked into me when I was parking . It is as good as new now an it looked awful before
 
Yep any generic motoring polish will abrade but sticking with known, branded ones means you know what you are getting.

Always worth trying on a small test patch first to check you are happy with the results.

Graham :)
 
One can buy head lamp refurb kits that have velcro backed abrasive sheets and a mounting pad.
They start quite coarse and get down to 3000 grit.
Finish either with polish or 2k lacquer.
Starting off isn't for the faint hearted as you do wonder whether you've just ruined your lights and will have to buy new!
 
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I've just polished the double glazed perspex windows on my 30 year old camper.
I used this stuff Novus. https://www.novuspolish.com/fine_scratch_remover.html
(They also do a coarser version) I polished them using this by hand, rubbing in straight lines so as not to swirl. It didn't take me very long to remove almost all the scratches and create a very good polish. One or two scratches were quite deep so I left these If you get the coarse polish you have to use the fine one after. I used a microfibre cloth to apply and another to polish.
I was amazed how well it worked, I had not realised that all the windows were quite cloudy and this cloudyness all went very quickly and the windows look so much clearer..
 
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This is all great, but when you see star crazing over a whole area, what causes that?
 
This is all great, but when you see star crazing over a whole area, what causes that?
I too have a window with a lot of star crazing,over the years it seems to get worse.I wonder wether the cause is heat making it brittle as mine is in close proximity to the gas hob,I plan to glue a sheet of Perspex over over it.The inner glazing is affected and not the outer.When I sort out to post a photo.Im going to sort my avatar later on my phone.
 

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