Tough tent pegs.

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After our recent trip to the New Forest and watching the antics of a nameless person, who was trying to get the toughened pegs or rock pegs out of the ground I have come up with this tool. For the miserly sum of £5:50 in B&Q all your struggles could be over.
Its a utility bar which is a tougher than the pegs its going to pull out.
15" inches long or about 38 cm and shaped to exert great force via leverage.
Its used in the building trade and by architectural salvage merchants.
It will pull rusty 4" nails out of a lump of wood and prise off wooden beading around windows and doors.
4789847899IMG_20190724_171441.jpgIMG_20190724_171338.jpg
 
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I have made extensive use of these lifting floorboards at work. Best thing is you can tip it on it's side, put the board upside down with the nail poking up and hammer it out. If that makes sense lol
 
I have made extensive use of these lifting floorboards at work. Best thing is you can tip it on it's side, put the board upside down with the nail poking up and hammer it out. If that makes sense lol
was just about to post.......it will be a good tool to use to pull up my floorboards......just the job....now need to find a cheap tool to cut the floorboard while insitu to save taking the whole board up.......will make the job much easier.
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was just about to post.......it will be a good tool to use to pull up my floorboards......just the job....now need to find a cheap tool to cut the floorboard while insitu to save taking the whole board up.......will make the job much easier.
.
These Oscillating Multitools are good for that task - https://amzn.to/2JZoyX0
 
I find Water Pump Pliers are excellen.
AND have a lot of other uses as well.
 
thanks for that wildbus......ive been looking at something like that....however...need to find something much less expensive...cannot justify that amount for the amount of floor boards which need cutting.......cheers
Where are you located?
 
thanks for that wildbus......ive been looking at something like that....however...need to find something much less expensive...cannot justify that amount for the amount of floor boards which need cutting.......cheers

I would firstly take Wildebus's kind offer if that can work - it's the best and neatest way. Just be careful about going to deep and catching a pipe of cable that can often be touching the bottom face of floorboards. If I'm not concerned about cutting a bit out of adjacent boards I use a circular saw, set to the right depth. You can pull back the guard and plunge it in.

If you're really stuck and know there isn't anything below you can chain drill it. This is metal, but the principle is the same:

 
I would firstly take Wildebus's kind offer if that can work - it's the best and neatest way. Just be careful about going to deep and catching a pipe of cable that can often be touching the bottom face of floorboards. If I'm not concerned about cutting a bit out of adjacent boards I use a circular saw, set to the right depth. You can pull back the guard and plunge it in.

If you're really stuck and know there isn't anything below you can chain drill it. This is metal, but the principle is the same:

A good link there to a chap who knows what he is doing :) (I used to be a Mod on the Ultimate Handyman Forum as it happens ;) )

I used the Multitool to make this cutout ....
Inverter Control - 1 by David, on Flickr
Needed to be precise as fully on show and right on the other side of the wood was the kitchen sink in the camper which I really didn't want to cut into!
You have good control with these tools and can feel very easily when you are through so you don't go too far in.

Trixie, I see you are going to Druridge? I'm not but if you wanted to get this tool sent to you (cost about £7 with a courier at a guess?) you could take it to Druridge when done and I am sure someone at Druridge would be happy to take it from you and bring it to the Kelso Meet where I could pick it back up?
 
It is indeed. I was there two weeks ago - Markse by the Sea.

You are welcome to borrow my Bosch Multitool if it can get to you :)
oh THANK YOU SO MUCH for that offer wildbus....so very kind of you it really is..........
however......i think i may have it sorted now...........brother coming round monday...to take up carpet......and then hopefully
take up a few boards. as unfortunately i cannot get to do these little jobs now.........just loved DIY.
as soon as weather cools down.....i shall be in a tool shop to get one of those small crowbars (probably have one lurking in the shed somewhere)..........and also look for a small oscillating tool of some sort....so that i have my own. as it will come in handy for all sorts. once again THANK YOU.

.....................................
 
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I would firstly take Wildebus's kind offer if that can work - it's the best and neatest way. Just be careful about going to deep and catching a pipe of cable that can often be touching the bottom face of floorboards. If I'm not concerned about cutting a bit out of adjacent boards I use a circular saw, set to the right depth. You can pull back the guard and plunge it in.

If you're really stuck and know there isn't anything below you can chain drill it. This is metal, but the principle is the same:

many thanks for that advice st3v3..........learnt my lesson re pipes many years ago....lol....wasnt funny at the time it was PANIC stations.....just love DIY..however i am no longer able to do it....(back problems)
want to make an inspection hole in the lounge.......hopefully with a good bit of careful measuring.....the boards will be cut
over a joist...so that they can just be nailed back down again..without having to use a nogging..... simple job in itself really........
good idea to use drill holes.....that would have to be done shy of the joist......have used that method with other jobs...however......didnt cross my mind to use it for the floor boards. used to have a circular saw.....brother took it off me......said it was too dangerous for me to use....and took it back to his house.....Huh..........thanks again
 
If you don't know where the joists are (tongue and groove boards I assume) cut a line at right angles to where the joists might be. Then you can cut the boards in the right place ;)
 

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