Battery monitor beeping.

rambrose

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Got a Renogy clone battery monitor that wouldn't shut up (pulled it out and disconnected for now).
It started when using the microwave.
worked ok previously with 2x 280ah batteries in parallel but had to loan one to my son.
I did change the capacity on the monitor but nothing else.
Looking on the BMS the Fogstar battery showed no issues. About 90-100amp draw.
Continued cooking and used about 10ah.

Currently the battery is partially discharged so can't calibrate.
The manual says completely discharge to set zero. Surely this is not good for the battery.

Battery and shunt is in the garage and I'm under a red blob on the rain radar.
Can you disable the beeping on these?
Any ideas on why it had a fit in the first place?
 
Got a Renogy clone battery monitor that wouldn't shut up (pulled it out and disconnected for now).
It started when using the microwave.
worked ok previously with 2x 280ah batteries in parallel but had to loan one to my son.
I did change the capacity on the monitor but nothing else.
Looking on the BMS the Fogstar battery showed no issues. About 90-100amp draw.
Continued cooking and used about 10ah.

Currently the battery is partially discharged so can't calibrate.
The manual says completely discharge to set zero. Surely this is not good for the battery.
It won't do it any harm if you run it until it shuts down.
If it were a Lead Acid battery, then you are right, it would be best to avoid, but no worries for Lithium.

I am not familiar with the Renogy monitor, but usually there is a way to either set a monitor to fully discharged, or fully charged. Maybe check for that option?

Battery and shunt is in the garage and I'm under a red blob on the rain radar.
Can you disable the beeping on these?
Any ideas on why it had a fit in the first place?
 
Thanks for the reply. I'll leave the monitor disconnected for now and use the battery app to keep an eye on things.
Roamer is returning my son's battery on Monday so I'll get my 2nd battery back for a full discharge calibration.
Still interested if anyone knows how to disable the alarm
 
Just an update. Roamer fixed the issue with my son's battery bms with minimal hassle. That means I got Mt second battery back.
As Wildebus said, i did get the all clear to flatten the batteries from Fogstar. Experimented with loads whilst draining.
3kw Renogy inverter is ok with a microwave AND a single induction hob. Load was around 2.4kw. Cables nice and cool.
There are 2x UK 3 pin domestic outlets on the inverter. Would have preferred a hard wired outlet to prevent the plugs vibrating loose. I've threaded zip ties through the case to hold the plugs in.
I'll just clarify that I have not tried to leave the plugs to their own friction to hold themselves in.
The 2.4kw load was OK on one inverter outlet.
With the microwave on one outlet and a Dyson hoover on the other it proved too much. Power momentarily dropped, resetting the microwave.

With the Renogy style battery monitor I found info that said if you set the alarms to 0 you're effectively turning them off.

I'm still in the process of charging the batteries back up. UK sunshine is a bit limited at the moment.
 
Just an update. Roamer fixed the issue with my son's battery bms with minimal hassle. That means I got Mt second battery back.
As Wildebus said, i did get the all clear to flatten the batteries from Fogstar. Experimented with loads whilst draining.
3kw Renogy inverter is ok with a microwave AND a single induction hob. Load was around 2.4kw. Cables nice and cool.
There are 2x UK 3 pin domestic outlets on the inverter. Would have preferred a hard wired outlet to prevent the plugs vibrating loose. I've threaded zip ties through the case to hold the plugs in.
I doubt if you will find an inverter with a 'hard wired outlet'? these are products designed for the retail/consumer market and the last thing the manufacturers (and buyer I bet) want to do is have the inverter needed to be opened up to wire bare cables to terminals.
I certainly would not buy an inverter that required me to do that - it would be a very inflexible setup. How would you manage how to change what you want to power or have somethingyou want to be able to use in more than one place?
What some manufacturers allow you to do is selected the outlet style - with Victron for example, you can select the UK Socket, the European Schuko socket, or an IEC Socket (I think the IEC is the best personally for a setup in a vehicle, but the standard plug should be fine really).

I'll just clarify that I have not tried to leave the plugs to their own friction to hold themselves in.
The 2.4kw load was OK on one inverter outlet.
With the microwave on one outlet and a Dyson hoover on the other it proved too much. Power momentarily dropped, resetting the microwave.

With the Renogy style battery monitor I found info that said if you set the alarms to 0 you're effectively turning them off.

I'm still in the process of charging the batteries back up. UK sunshine is a bit limited at the moment.
 
I doubt if you will find an inverter with a 'hard wired outlet'? these are products designed for the retail/consumer market and the last thing the manufacturers (and buyer I bet) want to do is have the inverter needed to be opened up to wire bare cables to terminals.
I certainly would not buy an inverter that required me to do that - it would be a very inflexible setup. How would you manage how to change what you want to power or have somethingyou want to be able to use in more than one place?
What some manufacturers allow you to do is selected the outlet style - with Victron for example, you can select the UK Socket, the European Schuko socket, or an IEC Socket (I think the IEC is the best personally for a setup in a vehicle, but the standard plug should be fine really).
 
After fully charging the batteries and callibrating the 100% level the monitor still beeps with the slightest discharge.
I ended getting another, identical monitor.
Replacing the shunt made no difference. With the new display panel all is quiet though.
I'm not setting an alarm on this one.
 

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