new inverter

I'd second that Del .
Thirded ?
i got the renology one about a year ago because my other had a faulty capacitor at the rolls-royce club , apart from the victron the renology was the stand out from the comparison sites but david did say double up the cables as a temporary measure and to get some 50mm ones for when i fit it properly
Make sure you do then.
 
A bit of a check suggests that 2000W will be large enough with a bit to spare.
Now the fun begins:eek:
 
You getting the Renogy 2000 Tim?
Not sure yet Jeff.
Other than how much output there is, there is a whole lot of jiggerypokery going on inside the magic box electrickery.
That's pretty much my starting point for selecting an inverter.
Must haves and nice to haves I'm not sure of.
As an example, something which I think the two main contenders can do is, if on EHU and it fails they will automatically switch to battery power, like the idea of that, not sure it's important to me though.
Maybe some suggestions of what they should have and nice to haves would be useful from those in the know.
 
Not sure yet Jeff.
Other than how much output there is, there is a whole lot of jiggerypokery going on inside the magic box electrickery.
That's pretty much my starting point for selecting an inverter.
Must haves and nice to haves I'm not sure of.
As an example, something which I think the two main contenders can do is, if on EHU and it fails they will automatically switch to battery power, like the idea of that, not sure it's important to me though.
Maybe some suggestions of what they should have and nice to haves would be useful from those in the know.
I can only recommend the Renogy 2000 as a few others have bought the same and yes it does switch over to mains when you plug it in.I ran a 2000watt induction hob with it no bother at all just make sure the cable you use are heavy enough and it's fused .
 
I can only recommend the Renogy 2000 as a few others have bought the same and yes it does switch over to mains when you plug it in.I ran a 2000watt induction hob with it no bother at all just make sure the cable you use are heavy enough and it's fused .
Thanks Jeff, whatever I end up with I'll leave it to someone who knows how to do it correctly.
 
What ever size cable you use the fuse should blow before it startes to melt the cable .I am using 35mm cable and my fuse is a 200amp one I don't know what size cable you are using .

Jeff
hi. thanks for that ordered 300amp fuse the m/h is on storage but the cables from the battery to the inverter are the one's which came with my old 3000w inverter so are thicker than the one's which came with the renogy 2000w inverter . the most draw would be my electric frying pan at 15000w & would be on medium settings so it would be click on click off i like to cook my sausages & bacon slow . cheyenne
 
Hi David, I'm still trying to fathom out a good solution for my needs.
I was just about to ask about a Victron Phoenix vs Multiplus.
Is the main difference the Multiplus has a battery charger, which I don't need or is there more?
I've also seen a Phoenix compact.
I'm looking for 2000w which will give me about 25% headroom.
 
Hi David, I'm still trying to fathom out a good solution for my needs.
I was just about to ask about a Victron Phoenix vs Multiplus.
Is the main difference the Multiplus has a battery charger, which I don't need or is there more?
I've also seen a Phoenix compact.
I'm looking for 2000w which will give me about 25% headroom.
Phoenix is an Inverter only (and a very good one)

Multiplus is an:
Inverter
Charger. The thing about the charger in the Multiplus is it used the same compentry as the Inverter, but just in reverse (Inverter is DC-AC conversion; Charger is AC-DC conversion). This means the Multiplus tend to be cost-efficient compared to buying an Inverter AND buying a seperate new Charger of the same power. If you are fitting a 460Ah Lithium, that is a BIG difference to the potential charging demands the original charger was designed for. Or has it already been upgraded?

The Multiplus also has a feature called "Power Assist", which allows the inverter to make up the difference between what the EHU can provide and what your AC demands might be. This could be very useful if say on a French campsite/Aire with a 6A hookup, and you switch on something extra that takes your demand over 6A (around 1300W). Instead of tripping the post breaker, the Multiplus will just make up the extra power while needed.


Obviously you can self-manage that kind of thing generally by checking what you are using, but it just makes like easier - and it does allow the use of individual items which by themselves could exceed the EHU supply on a limited site (Hairdryer and Electric Toasters are typical culprits)
 
Thanks for that David, I will have to check out the existing charger and see what it is capable of.
 
Saw an American YT video the other day, a "How to fit a Renogy 2000w inverter". (Paraphrased)
Yup, you guessed it, no fuse.
My question is, Across the pond they use 110 volt system. As there isn't a fuse shown in the instructions, would that mean at 110v a fuse isn't required, but if fitted in Europe at 240/220, it most certainly is?

This fuse thing is becoming a hobby horse of mine :mad: :rolleyes:
 
Saw an American YT video the other day, a "How to fit a Renogy 2000w inverter". (Paraphrased)
Yup, you guessed it, no fuse.
My question is, Across the pond they use 110 volt system. As there isn't a fuse shown in the instructions, would that mean at 110v a fuse isn't required, but if fitted in Europe at 240/220, it most certainly is?

This fuse thing is becoming a hobby horse of mine :mad: :rolleyes:
You are fusing on the 12V side, not the AC side, so no difference in that respect. Chances are you would never have to change a fuse on a system - but if the situation does arise you would be glad you had it fitted!

(I remember changing a failed relay on my Toyota RAV4 for the auxiliary driving lights. The original relay had an integrated fuse but the replacement was a standard relay (my bad). I also happened when checking the light operation (it was intermittantly not working) that I managed to trap a wire on the light housing when refitting a lamp and didn't notice. something easily done really.
Result was around 10 foot of wiring became a very long fuse, with the insulation melting and smoking and filling the engine bay with smoke, pouring out the side. All this would have been prevented by a 5p fuse if a regular fuse holder had been used to start with).


The voltage system in the US means the AC current is doubled if using 120V. That is why while we have typically 16A EHU/Shore connections, they have either 30A or 50A connections (50A as often there are multiple Air Cons fitted).

PS. the US do also use 240V for some appliances like Washing Machines and some Air Cons, for example.
 

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