I will answer your actual question if I can - but that is not to say I disagree with some of the opinions on this thread. It is common knowledge that absorption (3-way) fridges need more electrical power than compressor fridges, but you specifically said that you are in Spain and have plenty of
solar. I have a similar situation - since a recent upgrade to much bigger batteries, so I can store more, and much bigger
solar, so I can generate more, it soon became apparent that I had power to spare in summer, lots of it. My new system is sized for winter full time off grid. so it is inevitable that such a system would have excess capacity in summer. So I started to experiment with how much power I could use to power my 3-way in summer, via my
inverter. The results are similar to yours - in sunny weather in summer I can power a 3-way 24/7 on 230v. But it is very hungry - about 10 amps at 12v per hour, but with a potential of 3 to 400a of
solar coming in, it is certainly doable, but you have to keep an eye on it - a cloudy day can upset things very easily! Monitoring is essential, and the BMS apps that come with most lithium batteries these days are good for this. But the novelty soon wore off for me, all I was saving was a bit of gas. My fridge is on gas pretty much 24/7 and just works.
With regard to your desire to run it directly on 12v, I can see the sense in this, but as others have said the 12v heating element on a 3-way is usually not as powerful as the 230v one. But putting that aside, how would you actually do it? I don't recognise your actual fridge, but would assume it's a modern one with automatic energy selection. As you say, the 12v part only works when the engine is running, so if you need to override this, then you need to find the 12v supply cable, that will only be live with the engine on, and connect it to a permanent supply from the leisure
battery. You can do this either at the fridge end, or the
battery end - I don't know your van but presumably you will have an Elektroblock or similar that contains the fuses and relays. I have installed compressor fridges in several vans, and have found it quite easy to do this at the distribution end. You can identify the cables either by referring to the documentation, or poking around with the multimeter. One of the cables from the box will be the fridge 12v supply wire - and it will go +12v when the engine is on. There will also be another 12v supply to the fridge, which will be live all the time - this is for the fridge electronic control board - the fridges controls need 12v all the time no matter what the power source. This wire will be thinner than the other if there is any confusion. Once you find the relevant cable, you can cut it and connect it to one of the permanent 12v supplies, which will also be present - I can't be more specific because I don't know what your equipment actually is. But they all work on the same principle. You would also have to think about additional fusing, and probably also a manual switch.
So you can do it with a bit of messing around. But personally I wouldn't bother. If you have it running from your
inverter already, then I would leave it that way. While it is true on paper that inverters have a conversion penalty, in reality it isn't that big, and often overblown. It's about 10%, which isn't that great. Plus the fact that the 12v element is weaker, I just don't think it's worth the hassle - using excess
solar to power a 3-way is most likely best achieved doing it the way you do at present, but the only way to prove it is to suck it and see - but you would need accurate measurement - either with a
battery monitor app, or a dc clamp meter, so you can actually measure and count the amps used. I very much doubt there would be much difference, and if the fridge then proved to be not as cold as before, then that will kill the idea for sure.