Smart or dumb 12volt waste tank outlet?

Pudsey Bear

Pudsey Bear

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I'm looking for ideas to get a simple 12v waste valve fitted, the van's original one has broken off 3 times now and has finally gone for good, it was fitted near the back corner and always caught when reversing back onto a grass slope to get out of the way when parking.

The wiring needs to be from the LB into the wardrobe and switched through the wardrobe wall, down to the LB and onto the 12v switch, I'm up to it all I think bar fitting the actual switch, and of course with it being waste it needs to cope with it, should it be a gate or ball valve etc would it need a relay and other clever stuff, anyone done it?
 
Carrerasax said:
What’s the matter with a manual tap?
Click to expand...
There isn't one.

It keeps breaking off, and we both find it difficult to use it as it is so low down and also is why it keeps breaking.
 
But which one, and the best way to fit it.

I'm assuming a short stubby pipe from the tank, not looked at it properly yet, the tank looks ok but the boss is broken or partly broken
 
Ignoring the valve operation for a moment Kev. My van has a valve at the tank, don't think any lower than the waste tank. This ten has fleet waste pipe that goes to the centre back of the van where it clips in place. It can be unzipped if you wanted to lower the pipe but in normal operation is higher than lowest points on the vehicle.

Can you not mount the valve at the tank (but not below it) then do similar with the pipe? Would stop anything getting ripped out and you could use a 12V valve as you want or stick with manual
 
I'm not visualising that setup Neil.

My tank has a lower section like a mini sump where the boss fits Neil, it's on the nearside quite a way back, but it had 2 feet of pipe with a lever ball valve in easy reach when we got it, suspended on a bracket from the ply floor and we stuck with that.

I'd like to fit the 12v valve directly on or near to the tank so more rigid, with a simple elbow so it is as invulnerable as possible.

We did have a van once with a horizontal gate valve that had a rod to open and close it, I liked the idea until the rod broke and I had to replace the lot.
 
Pudsey Bear said:
I'm not visualising that setup Neil.

My tank has a lower section like a mini sump where the boss fits Neil, it's on the nearside quite a way back, but it had 2 feet of pipe with a lever ball valve in easy reach when we got it, suspended on a bracket from the ply floor and we stuck with that.

I'd like to fit the 12v valve directly on or near to the tank so more rigid, with a simple elbow so it is as invulnerable as possible.

We did have a van once with a horizontal gate valve that had a rod to open and close it, I liked the idea until the rod broke and I had to replace the lot.
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what you want to do - and the reasons why - I totally get (y)
There are a few options around to retrofit electric valves to motorhome waste tanks but the last time I looked they were rather pricey (enough to make me think "maybe another time" anyway).
You have to also accept that they tend not to be the most reliable of things and if they stick, you could be stuck!
 
I see some are marked as normally open or normally closed, not sure which is the best option as I don't want to be applying voltage to do either full time just monetary to do one or t'other as required.

This looks man enough and as you say not cheap but Confucious says, cheap not good & good not cheap, plus other bits and someone who likes to lay under vans.

Dirty water drain solenoid valve - 1¼" BSP male connections, 2-way latching 12V DC

Beta Valve product detail page. Here you will find technical product information and you are able to view/print data sheets and WRAS certificates.
www.betavalve.com www.betavalve.com
 
No good needs another water supply, I assume to flush it.
 
I had an electric dump valve on my Benimar - was problematic so I got rid of it and fitted a ball valve on a homemade bracket just behind the nearside rear wheel. Very simple to operate and can't get damaged. I joined the valve to the grey tank with a short length of clear heavy duty ribbed pipe I bought (only a few £'s) from an agricultural machinery supplier. Used for farm spraying machines ... various bores available. Did this about 12 years ago and it's still working fine.
 
Why they don't bring the waste between the wheels is beyond me, I can't even fit a spare wheel.
 
U.S. Solid 1" Motorized Ball Valve DN 25 Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve, 9-24V AC/DC, 2 Wire Auto Return Setup https://amzn.eu/d/5KnBUaz

I used this valve in combination with a 1" plastic tee and 1" stainless steel hand operated valve...giving two methods of disposal of grey. Hand operation in front of NS rear, and electric in centre of vehicle, operated from cab.
You will notice this valve consumes no power when open or closed. I fitted a 1"BSP. horizontal outlet to the waste tank which sits just in front of rear axle.....Alec.
 
Livotlout said:
U.S. Solid 1" Motorized Ball Valve DN 25 Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve, 9-24V AC/DC, 2 Wire Auto Return Setup https://amzn.eu/d/5KnBUaz

I used this valve in combination with a 1" plastic tee and 1" stainless steel hand operated valve...giving two methods of disposal of grey. Hand operation in front of NS rear, and electric in centre of vehicle, operated from cab.
You will notice this valve consumes no power when open or closed. I fitted a 1"BSP. horizontal outlet to the waste tank which sits just in front of rear axle.....Alec.
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I fitted one of these to my fresh water tank a few years ago and it works ok .IMG_3100.jpeg
 
I think my first issue will be (once I even manage to get under the van) seeing if whats left is even salvageable or not.
 
Pudsey Bear said:
I'm looking for ideas to get a simple 12v waste valve fitted, the van's original one has broken off 3 times now and has finally gone for good, it was fitted near the back corner and always caught when reversing back onto a grass slope to get out of the way when parking.

The wiring needs to be from the LB into the wardrobe and switched through the wardrobe wall, down to the LB and onto the 12v switch, I'm up to it all I think bar fitting the actual switch, and of course with it being waste it needs to cope with it, should it be a gate or ball valve etc would it need a relay and other clever stuff, anyone done it?
Click to expand...
I had one of those on my CHAUSSON loads of trouble with it , kept gunging up and eventually failed so I removed it and just fitted a PLastic tap in its place , Bought the tap from an aquarium supplies, in line tap so not bulky .
 
I'm wondering if we should even bother in reality just bang a tap directly onto the tank as we rarely empty in the places provided, and when we do it's always onto grass maybe once or twice a week Liz, actually prefers to wash her hair out of a bowl on a cab step we only do it where we're on our own and that gets thrown under a bush I've done the same with the washing up water as there are almost zero solids as we scrape and wipe the plates etc so we don't block the sinks waste pipe.
 
Pudsey Bear said:
I'm wondering if we should even bother in reality just bang a tap directly onto the tank as we rarely empty in the places provided, and when we do it's always onto grass maybe once or twice a week Liz, actually prefers to wash her hair out of a bowl on a cab step we only do it where we're on our own and that gets thrown under a bush I've done the same with the washing up water as there are almost zero solids as we scrape and wipe the plates etc so we don't block the sinks waste pipe.
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The only time a shut my wast tap Kev in on a carpark other wise its left open all the time .
 
I usually opened it and more often than not I'd remember it the next time I looked at it, so not much difference here.
 
My cold water drain valve was a real ball ache to access so in it's place I mackled a 22mm motorised valve that's used for central heating systems. They have a rubber ball that's pulled tightly against the aperture with a strong spring so would probably be reliable on a waste outlet.
Operating voltage is 230V so you'd need to power it via your inverter and of course protect the whole thing from road spray if it's going to be under the van.

Our van has something like this

with the operating rod extended to the edge of the van for easy access.
 
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