Interesting (!) battery issue

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2x100AH lead acid leisure batteries 3 years old. Assuming 80AH usable in total.
CTEK D250s, 120W solar, 20AH engine charger
NASA BM1 Battery monitor
All cables well spec'd (over spec'd) - negligible voltage drop in all scenarios.
All fuses/connections good.
Assume almost zero solar input for the example.

Compressor fridge @ 2.5A when running, 1/3 of the time, max, say 25AH per day
Diesel heating, 20A startup for 2 mins, (pulsed, so shows 10A). 1A when running
Lights (LED), pump, and other bits negligible.

I make that as the fridge should run for 3 days (72H), and the heating for a few hours a day quite easily.

At the Hereford meet, the LBs were fully charged (from driving/solar, but also put on hookup before we left and the 240v smart charger agreed and did nothing!)
Arrived at 16:00 Saturday, but by 08:00 Monday the fridge stopped working for the first time ever, and battery voltage looking a bit low. That's 40hrs - and far below expectation and past experience.

Put the heating on and the voltage went <11v for a few seconds and as expected everything shut down. So appears batteries were dead.

On Monday afternoon we started the van engine for 30 mins, @ 20AH charge, and hence put 10AH back into the battery. During this time, the heating was on and running. We didn't put the fridge back on, but did use lights, pump, charge phone etc - with no flickering of lights. Then, even with this slight top up, the heating worked quite happily a couple of times thereafter with no slowing of fan or issues during high current startup-shutdown. Normal voltage behaviour.

The fridge is pulling the correct current (easily seen on BM1) and ran happily for a short duration post engine run, but we left it off as beer was cold enough

Odd.

Driving home, 2hrs, 40Ah max back into battery, and NASA BM1 reading fully charged, and the ctek was just dribbling in 6A by the time we parked on the drive.

Now - I'm 100% happy the CTEK is working perfectly, and is putting in 20A when driving (unless batteries full). Alternative smart charger agrees with CTEK when batteries are full.

Odder.

So - question is, how can 2x100AH batteries die, then work well after a minimum top up, and then be full with only a small charge applied that shouldn't have filled them up?


Have them out now under individual load testing to see if either has failed, or if its just an old age thing, or if something weird went on that caused the voltage to drop massively before its time?


Notes:-
* Batteries removed, both at 13.3v after 15 minutes away from power
* Load test is running a 240v halogen 20W light via a naff inverter, best I can knock up to be consistent.
* Batteries tested individually with same results, suggesting one battery hasn't failed.
* Batteries drop to 12.9v within 30 seconds
* After 40 minutes, batteries at 12.38v

Currently running longer duration load test on 2x50W halogens via inverter (9A or so draw)

I was expecting one obviously duff battery, but appears not.

(EDIT TO ADD: The BM1 reported batteries as flat <5%, and after 30 min engine, 17%. But overnight (with no extra charging) went up to 90% - so not sure the BM1 is overly trustworthy!)

Thoughts?!
 
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Update: Battery 1 on 100w/inverter, c. 10A load, died in 1.5hrs - so 15AH ish. hmmm.
Battery 2 under same test

If batteries died at Hereford, and only got 30-40AH in on drive back, then that explains the battery dying so I'm "happy" that discharge = known charge (so far).

But then it appears that the ctek wasn't pushing in 20A all the time (as I said, on the drive it was only pushing 6A in) and the BM1 was reporting 105% full.

Will be interesting to see what the 240v charger does as usually it agrees with ctek as to batteries state of charge. Its charging battery 1 now at 9-10A, so if it thinks its full in 2 hrs its a duff battery. If it charges at 9A past 9 oclock then the battery may be OK (albeit sulking at going flat twice).

So either
(a) Battery 1 is dead and not holding a full charge (20AH not 100AH (max))
(b) Batteries are both not holding much charge
(c) Chargers aren't able to get charge into the batteries
(d) Something ate all the power at Hereford without reason or reading on the BM1!
 
Anything to do with the temperature of the batteries?
That is a possibility. they are internal and inside the wardrobe, so not in the coldest place, but also not in a heated place. Hereford wasn't cold, so would be surprised if they were any colder than 10' - certainly not much less.

I should've charged on 240 for 24hrs+ before the tests of course :) But I did expect an instant obvious failure, as we can't explain some of the behaviour.
 
Hereford wasn't cold,

Hmmm, I wouldn't have said it was particularly warm either lol. I think we saw around 5 degrees as a low inside the truck for the most part, except the last night that was really cold. The condensation froze into big drips on the skylight above boy's bedroom :eek:
 
Hmmm, I wouldn't have said it was particularly warm either lol. I think we saw around 5 degrees as a low inside the truck for the most part, except the last night that was really cold. The condensation froze into big drips on the skylight above boy's bedroom :eek:
Oh lol! Wasn't that cold in ours! We were the smallest there, and the heating is good, and two hot bodies and all that :D
 
It was because we weren't in it with the heaters running much. He's not bothered by the cold so didn't put the one that end on, just our end - which had me waking up sweating when I let her set the temperature lol.
 
Hmmm. After 1hr @ 9-10A charge on 240v charger, Battery 1 is at 14.5v and getting 5A - which is wrong :( The smart charger should be giving 10A. On the screen of the smart charger (hard to see) it says "equalize" (ing?) - not sure and shows battery at 3/4 full which no way it is.

Can't find the manual so no idea what that means.

Battery 2 also died after 1.5h

So both batteries had same charge, and both were from flat, and the drive home vs what I've used is about right.

So looks like I'm down to
(b) Batteries are both not holding much charge
(c) Chargers aren't able to get charge into the batteries


- and its possible (I guess?) one of the cells in one of the batteries is dead (hence equalizing/) - and maybe stopped the other charging properly.

Will keep an eye on the smart charger (screen usually out of view, but with van apart its visible). But looks like it may be 2x new batteries!
 
Just a quick point...

As your batteries are lead acid I would use a charge ratio of 80%, so 20 amps of charge for one hour will store 16 amps in the batteries.
 
Hmmm. After 1hr @ 9-10A charge on 240v charger, Battery 1 is at 14.5v and getting 5A - which is wrong :( The smart charger should be giving 10A. On the screen of the smart charger (hard to see) it says "equalize" (ing?) - not sure and shows battery at 3/4 full which no way it is.

Can't find the manual so no idea what that means.

Battery 2 also died after 1.5h

So both batteries had same charge, and both were from flat, and the drive home vs what I've used is about right.

So looks like I'm down to
(b) Batteries are both not holding much charge
(c) Chargers aren't able to get charge into the batteries


- and its possible (I guess?) one of the cells in one of the batteries is dead (hence equalizing/) - and maybe stopped the other charging properly.

Will keep an eye on the smart charger (screen usually out of view, but with van apart its visible). But looks like it may be 2x new batteries!
It sounds like knackered batteries.
 
It sounds like knackered batteries.

I'm thinking the same .

Will see what the smart charger does now I can see the screen and do one battery at a time. Can't imagine *both* being dead the same way, my past experience always shows one duffer only. (And yes, I then replace all, but keep the good in the workshop for bench testing!)
 
Hmmm, I wouldn't have said it was particularly warm either lol. I think we saw around 5 degrees as a low inside the truck for the most part, except the last night that was really cold. The condensation froze into big drips on the skylight above boy's bedroom :eek:
Rub some shampoo in Tommys hair at night Steve, it won't stop the drips but he'll be lovely and clean in the morning.
 
Sounds like duff batterys to me,showing a good charge and then a fast drop of is a sure test,do buy varta or bosch silver power frame batterys next time but dont discharge below one third.
 
Sounds like duff batterys to me,showing a good charge and then a fast drop of is a sure test,do buy varta or bosch silver power frame batterys next time but dont discharge below one third.
Never discharged below about 60-70% as the solar or engine has kicked it off, and at Hereford, it wasn't supposed to drop lol - the maths said it wouldn't.
They are in a *tight* space and I cannot exceed 278mm length and 175mm width, so a bit restricted (van is tiny, most use 1x LB at best, getting 2 in is magic :) ). Used varta in last van but when I looked when I built the van, none would fit. Will look around if I need to replace - but think https://www.tayna.co.uk/leisure-batteries/powerline/xv94mf/ may be the one that fits - and interesting the "new model" is lower rated than the old 100AH one in the same case lol.
 
Could be sulphation. Sulphation can reduce the capacity of a battery. The bits of the plates that aren’t sulphated can behave normally, so the battery may recharge to normal voltages but effectively have half the original capacity. An AA battery technician explained it to me whilst working on a neighbours car. Some smart chargers have de-sulphation phases but many do not, the process involves pulses of higher voltage that hopefully dislodge the sulphates from the plates but no guarantee it will work. Apparently it is caused by discharge to low voltages and could affect both batteries in a matched pair.
 
Could be sulphation. Sulphation can reduce the capacity of a battery. The bits of the plates that aren’t sulphated can behave normally, so the battery may recharge to normal voltages but effectively have half the original capacity. An AA battery technician explained it to me whilst working on a neighbours car. Some smart chargers have de-sulphation phases but many do not, the process involves pulses of higher voltage that hopefully dislodge the sulphates from the plates but no guarantee it will work. Apparently it is caused by discharge to low voltages and could affect both batteries in a matched pair.
You could be right.
The CTEK D250S has done 99% of the charging - the van has only been on hookup for, maybe,10 days in its 2.5yr (150d away) life. It doesn't appear to have specific equalization/desuphation stages. (Reading the manual now).
If the 240v smart charger can fix it, or we replace the batteries, think we'll get batteries discharged to 60% after every trip and get the 240v on the case to do its (aledged!) magic.
 
Check water levels on batteries - may have evaporated over time

That was my first thoughts, but sealed, and I mean sealed lol - can't get plugs out. Supplier said it should never need topping up - and the fact I can't get plugs out sort of agrees :)

Smart charger, after 3 hrs ish, is now saying 13.5v and "float" charge. In other words, battery is full. So put 20A max into it. (CTEK charger agrees, so its not an iffy charger/loigc). So battery is full - in other words, capacity right down. Interestingly (!) NASA BM1 says 100% full too. Will test other battery over weekend, too cold now, but looks like new batteries to be on order soon!
 
Have you checked the manual for your smart charger? Just because it is now on float charge might not mean it is fully charged. Some chargers use a timer to alter the charge cycle from bulk to float. Switch it off for a while and then see what it does when you power it up again.
 
Have you checked the manual for your smart charger? Just because it is now on float charge might not mean it is fully charged. Some chargers use a timer to alter the charge cycle from bulk to float. Switch it off for a while and then see what it does when you power it up again.
Yeah, float appears to be when full, it tapers from 80% full then to float.
Nice idea though
 

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