Adhesive or bolted to roof

I have often heard people say to use Sikaflex for various sticking/sealing jobs but no one ever mentions which one, there are so many types. I chose 521 for a roof light sealing job but that one remains flexible to allow for expansion/contraction. So what one makes a good adhesive?
 
I have often heard people say to use Sikaflex for various sticking/sealing jobs but no one ever mentions which one, there are so many types. I chose 521 for a roof light sealing job but that one remains flexible to allow for expansion/contraction. So what one makes a good adhesive?
I used Sikaflex 292i which is a marine adhesive when fitting an additional panel to my Pilote c class. This was after speaking to Pilote and 2 companies that install panels.
I used 50mm x50mm Ali angle and scuffed both the ali angle and where they sat on the roof and used the Sikaflex recommended activator. Used 3mm spacers, didn’t bother with screws.
The panel I fitted sits behind the factory fitted panel which again has no screws. Always check panels once a month when I clean the roof and no issues to date.
 
I have often heard people say to use Sikaflex for various sticking/sealing jobs but no one ever mentions which one, there are so many types. I chose 521 for a roof light sealing job but that one remains flexible to allow for expansion/contraction. So what one makes a good adhesive?
Edina makes a great point. You ask about what type of sealer. As Edina points out go by manufactures instructions ie. What primer/adhesive thay recommend before bonding it on. It might be some people know better than the manufacturer. It really is a science. So for someone like me. I will take thr knowledge on board
 
In case it might convince the doubters Sikaflex is used to mount mudguards on kitcars (similar to Lotus 7) with no mechanical backup. In that application the continuous pounding of the unsprung assembly on rough roads and potholes still doesn't dislodge them. If fixing to a campervan roof (which usually has a GRP skin) just abrading the gelcoat is all that is required. If the top surface is only paint it is probably best to abrade back to the surface below.
 
And it is not just a matter of how good the adhesive is. Or even how good the prep is. How secure is the paint that the adhesive is sticking to?

How many people have complained about the paint just peeling off their Ducato Vans?
The paint issue is one I never thought about, and just used stixall on all of mine bar my first van which I used roofing screws as well, 8 vans no problems, but can't speak to longevity, you do have to ensure chemical cleanliness and to ensure 1mm thickness under the brackets, use a short bit of 1mm wire, all but one of my vans were pre 07, the last being a 07 Relay, that was built in 2011 and as of late last year all roof fixtures were sound bar the heki 2, a small leak but I think this may be my fitting as I hurried it.
 
Hi pudsey what adhesive did you use. I was looking at sikaflex 512. 292i. 252. What a price difference. Brian
 
In the words of John Travolta “this is the one that you want”.

522 is an adhesive and sealant.

Sikaflex®-522 is a low emission 1-component Silane Terminated Polymer (STP) sealant/adhesive. It has a high weathering and mold resistance. Sikaflex®-522 meets highest EHS standards. It bonds well to a wide range of substrates with minimal pre-treatment.

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Hi thanks all for your input. Just ordered 1 x sikaflex activator. 2x sikaflex 522. Already got the panel brackets Mppt. Just need fitting now. Anyone bored.
Make sure you key the brackets as well as the roof. The minimum thickness is 2mm, so I generally use 3mm tile spacers for optimal bonding. Too thick or too thin can cause the adhesion to fail. If the panel is in a position where it is likely to have a powerful airflow hitting it whilst driving, as an example, if it was over the cab, fit a wind deflector. I used a piece of aluminium angle. The other forces from cornering, braking, acceleration, bumps and gravity effect the vehicle and panel equally so they are not a concern.

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It’s a couple of years since I did mine, I was a bit lost with the different advice that folks gave so I contacted Sika tech department, told them what I wanted to do and asked for their advice. They said for me to use 252i architectural and if applied as advised no mechanical fixing was required.
They may say something different now as products change and of course different vans have different types of roof so what was right for me may be wrong for someone else. If you are going to worry about it though use screws for peace of mind. 👍
 
When we brought our Hymer there was a large roof box up there, which I did not want, so I proceeded to remove it, easier said than done, it was bolted (not very well) but I reckon the adhesive was from another planet, I had to use a hammer and chisel to remove it, luckily no damage to the roof
 
Fitted 2 Solar panels to my MH in 2019 with Sikaflex only, then did over 3000 miles on the continent in the worst heatwave France had experienced in recorded history with temperatures in excess of 45 °C (113 °F) A national all-time record high temperature of 46.0 °C (114.8 °F) occurred. I did a lot of high speed motorway driving, went up into Catalonia and Andorra as well. Panels stayed on and stayed secure at all points. If they were going to come off it would have been in that heat. Just fitted 3 panels to my new MH and used Sikaflex again. I am not drilling holes in my MH Roof when they are not necessary, except for the cables of course which run through a gland box also installed with Sikaflex.
 
The soft metal of the van means I've had better luck pulling out screws and rivnuts with my bare hands than pulling sikaflex off.

My solar panel is sikaflexed with the thick black stuff. My maxxfan is belt and braces with a wooden frame under the roof. :LOL:
 

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