Bathroom Tampour Door on Hymer.

[paulhelenwilko]

Bathroom Tampour Door on Hymer.

Bathroom Tambour Door on Hymer.

Anyone got any experience with fixing these ?
Occasionally the door would become stiff and I would find one or two of the runners on the bottom of the door had jumped off the track. I found I could use a screwdriver as a lever and prise it back on the track.

This time however several are off the track and are in a confined space so I am having difficulty getting it back on the track. Has anyone got any tips ? Is it possible to slide the door off the end of the track ( I think I will have to remove the door handle ) and slide the door back on the track ? will all the sections start to come undone ?

Thanking you for any help..

Paul​

 

[MOJO]

Might get a good response from the Hymer Owners Group or the Hymer Club International for all things Hymer.

 

[davidhow]

hello. although i haven't got the motorhome in question i do know a little about these. the 'slats' are all held together by sliding each one on to the previous before fitting in the track. if you have damaged slats you could attempt to remove the door and slide the damaged slats out. maybe reattach them at the front end. but my hunch is the track has some damage somewhere or some obstruction whereas making the door difficult to pass through. its only my humble opinion but i await to see the outcome. good luck

 

[MykCamper]

Hi Paul, use furniture polish regularly on the runners, top and bottom, as a lubricant, to improve the glide and smooth running, it smells nice too and prevents wear!
all the best, Mike :Smiling_Emoji_with_

 

[dalspa]

I agree with the above post, including the nice smell!

 

[paulhelenwilko]

I think I have sorted it. Furniture polish was a good tip on reassembly.

On close inspection I found that some of the bottom runners (upside down U shaped plastic inserts) had 'spun around 90 degrees and were off the track. In the act of spinning around they had split the vertical slats of the tambour door.

I removed the door handle and slid the door off the tracks. I then slid each of the vertical slats off the adjacent one.

Once disassembled I could glue the U shaped inserts into the slats that were broken. This way preventing the slat from splitting and the U turning in the slat. Then it was a matter of sliding each slat together and the door back on the track.

Before disassembly I used gaffer tape to hold it all together, but in practise I found this to be unnecessary.

I hope this may help someone else who finds themselves with a similar problem. However I would suggest prevention is far better than cure and not forcing the door when stiff is far better than loosing a few hours to a giant jigsaw.

PS Has anyone got a solution to stop a smooth running bathroom door banging everytime you brake or accelerate !

 

[TeamRienza]

My Hymer B598 has a door like yours. It has occasionally gotten a little stiff. I spray the bottom track with silicon from time to time. The leading edge also has a habit of gathering fluff etc on the leading guide, so I try to keep it clear.

with regard to retaining the door. The door when fully opened should catch on a retainer, which I can’t see on mine as it is behind the toilet and also a wooden panel. Early in the life of ours, something happened and the catching mechanism (for want of a better word) broke, allowing the door to slop about a little in what sounds like a similar scenario to yours.

my answer is that I bought (TK Max) an elasticated strap made by blackspur. The elastic is flat in profile with a large plastic hook on each end. Length is about 18 inches. One end hooks over a coat hook in the main passage between kitchen and end bedroom and then under light tension the other end hooks over the wire rail on one of the shelves beside the wash basin. As the elastic turns through 90 degrees at the edge of the tambour door it retains it in place. Probably too expensive to have a Hymer dealer repair it as I imagine it means a new door and potentially the retaining ‘catch’ is inaccessible.

My van is an A class and the hab door will blow closed easily due to a very poor retaining clip. I use the same shock cord to hook one end round the interior chrome door handle. The elastic passes into the van via the sliding cab window (which can be slid back to almost closed). The other end is hooked over the end of a wooden panel. In both cases the length of elastic is perfect.

if you wish, I can take a couple of photos tomorrow (23.30 now), although I have not had occasion to upload photos to this forum, so a step into the unknown. Let me know if you want photos.

Davy

 

[paulhelenwilko]

Thankyou Davy for the update, I think I can picture your set up. I think my problem is that there was a length of draught furry excluder for want of a better description mounted between the waal and Tambour door.This came off some time ago, I am now thinking that when all is smooth this just provides enough friction to keep the door from slamming around.

Paul.