Ecoworthy Lithium Battery

[CriftinsCampers]

@RAW
Most of the cheap unbranded batteries churned out by the millions with eco worthy etc. stickers plonked on them lack low temp disconnect which imho is probably the most essential feature.

I wouldn’t install one without it, mine automatically disconnected multiple times last winter so avoiding potential damage until it had warmed up.

internal heating is also useful but standing them on a cheap 20w 230v AC seed tray heater is equally effective.

Failing that if the cheap ones without any built in protection was my only option I would install them using Anderson connectors so they can be easily removed and taken indoors and kept warm when not in use

 

[wildebus]

@RAW
Most of the cheap unbranded batteries churned out by the millions with eco worthy etc. stickers plonked on them lack low temp disconnect which imho is probably the most essential feature.

I wouldn’t install one without it, mine automatically disconnected multiple times last winter so avoiding potential damage until it had warmed up.

internal heating is also useful but standing them on a cheap 20w 230v AC seed tray heater is equally effective.

Handy but not EQUALLY effective.
The internal heaters are right next to the cells so they get the cells warmed up faster rather than heating up the casing first.

Also, the better batteries with Internal heating pads have a BMS with an algorithm that works with the heater, as opposed to just switching it on and off depending on a temp reading. They will activate the heater based on a combination of temperature and available charge rate and divert the incoming current appropriately to cells or heater. Contrary to popular opinion and 'fact' (obtained via youtube typically), you CAN charge a lithium battery when it is below 0C perfectly safely if the charge rate is below a certain level.
So for example, Solar in winter is pretty poor generally, but a couple of amps may be coming in. Having that charge be ignored when the battery is cold could be quite wasteful when in reality it could go into the battery. A heated battery with a BMS to match can make use of it WITHOUT heating the battery

One other thing to watch out for, typically with cheaper Lithium batteries with earlier BMSes ... the low temp disconnect worked on both the Charge AND Load side, so if the battery went below a pre-determined temp, not only could you not charge the battery (which is fine) but you could not USE the battery either (not so fine!).

Failing that if the cheap ones without any built in protection was my only option I would install them using Anderson connectors so they can be easily removed and taken indoors and kept warm when not in use

 

[rayphotoman]

esigned by our multi-award winning team here at Fogstar UK, our 12.8v 105Ah Lithium Leisure Battery can be used across a wide range of applications, from solar energy to camper and caravans, golf carts to electric wheelchairs, marine and boating.
The Fogstar Drift Lithium Leisure Batteries offer a phenomenal cycle life (>3500 cycles at 80% DOD), low environmental impact and a superb 10 year warranty.

Manufactured using Grade A EVE LiFePO4 Lithium cells, high discharge JBD BMS, built in Bluetooth and Heating as standard - our new Lithium Leisure Battery collection offers everything you’d expect in a premium product.

 

[neckender]

The Eco-worthy Lithium does have low temperature disconnect as part of its makeup.

John.

 

[nabsim]

When I bought my lifepo4 I don’t think any of them came with heating built in, I know very shortly afterwards I saw Relion brought one out but that was over two and a half times what I paid per battery.

Obviously people need to check the spec sheets for the particular battery they are buying but for me I have not had a single issue in over 4 years use. No battery’s refusing to charge or discharge/going to sleep, no problem with heat or cold. I will add that my use is exclusively in the U.K. so much hotter/colder climates may give different results.

My battery’s are mounted under one of the side benches inside the hab area. I can discharge down to -20 and normal charge to 5 degrees then reduced charge to 0 degrees. I usually leave my eberspacher set at 10 degrees overnight in the Winter so it has hardly ever got down below 5 degrees. If I am parked up the 300W solar on the roof never gets anywhere near what the 5 to 0 degree charge rate is on the days when it’s been particularly cold.

I am not bothered about any Bluetooth on the battery (which I don’t have) I much prefer to rely on a Victron shunt for that duty. I have blutooth temperature monitors in the battery compartment and in the hab area as well as what the van came with so can easily see what’s going on. I only really check the temps at the battery before moving now if I have ice inside the hab area windows as time has shown it safe to drive with my 30amp b2b putting charge in otherwise.

At some point I may change my battery’s because the ones I have will only take 2 in parallel and ideally I would like another but as I have coping mechanisms I may not bother. If I do change I will go for what I think is the best deal at the time, I won’t buy a totally unknown brand and I won’t buy some known brands either. End of the day it’s your money so go with whatever makes you happy

 

[Molly 3]

All good bargains BUT not just a simple drop in replacement for my nuevo with Sargent 328 system .???

 

[nabsim]

All good bargains BUT not just a simple drop in replacement for my nuevo with Sargent 328 system .???

To get the best out of any Lifepo4 you need to be able to quick charge really Baz. After checking specs on my battery though I didn’t need to do much more than change settings and add a B2B. I did get an improvement later when I upgraded b2b cables but it ran ok for a good two year on the lighter Geist cable, just lower voltage going in.

Only think I couldn’t set for lifepo4 was the main charger. I mainly use that with a genny anyway and the Gel setting was within spec for my battery’s. I just either stopped the genny or flicked breaker for charger on odd occasions when I was on site before it went float.

No worries since I got a couple of IP22 Victron 30amp chargers though but I did manage okay before that so it is important to check battery spec and existing kit spec.

You would probably need to pull fuse for manufacturers charger and use a compliant one instead would you Baz?

 

[Molly 3]

No settings are changeable on sargent 328 unit charge rate is max of 14.4 volts most lithium are 14.6 , not sure how much difference it would make if any , I bought an ecoflow delta 2 good bit of kit , BUT would advise anyone thinking of buying ecoflow to check out reviews,,

 

[nabsim]

No settings are changeable on sargent 328 unit charge rate is max of 14.4 volts most lithium are 14.6 , not sure how much difference it would make if any , I bought an ecoflow delta 2 good bit of kit , BUT would advise anyone thinking of buying ecoflow to check out reviews,,

Mine are 14.6+/- 2v Baz but they do charge less than that. Original wiring for spli charger that I used for b2b only put 13.8v in for first 2 years. Majority of my charging is solar in summer/approx 7 months then whatever solar and genny every couple of days for other 5 months.

With my 30amp b2b and decent cables now I would have to drive over 2 hours every day to replace usage. No chance of me doing that lol.

I have bypassed my control system for solar, mains and b2B though, no charging goes through original control unit. The Victron shunt tells me what I need to know although the original control panel still displays battery voltages.

To my mind power banks have their uses but it depends on how you use your van as to if they would do. They wouldn’t for me.

 

[RAW]

Nope, it's on the basic ones we bought.

Good to know, thanks

 

[Molly 3]

Mine are 14.6+/- 2v Baz but they do charge less than that. Original wiring for spli charger that I used for b2b only put 13.8v in for first 2 years. Majority of my charging is solar in summer/approx 7 months then whatever solar and genny every couple of days for other 5 months.

With my 30amp b2b and decent cables now I would have to drive over 2 hours every day to replace usage. No chance of me doing that lol.

I have bypassed my control system for solar, mains and b2B though, no charging goes through original control unit. The Victron shunt tells me what I need to know although the original control panel still displays battery voltages.

To my mind power banks have their uses but it depends on how you use your van as to if they would do. They wouldn’t for me.

Their is also a problem fitting a B to B to the sargent 328 so a power station seems a good option to get 240 V in the van