Fitting a Victron B2B in a 2017 Fiat Ducato

xsilvergs

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This is how I installed a Victron Non-Isolated B2B to a 2017 Fiat Ducato Coachbuilt Motorhome fitted with a Nordelettronica NE196 Control unit. The Fiat electrical system should be similar no matter what brand of Motorhome you have.

Why did I fit a B2B? The Fiat starter battery is a flooded type lead acid battery, Roller Team fitted a single 95Ah Varta AGM battery as part of their habitation fit. A few times I had noticed that the leisure battery hadn't charged fully by the end of a drive, once was after a Motorway drive in rush hour traffic, basically a queue where the engine never really got going.

Varta recommend a Bulk charge voltage of 14.7 volt and the Fiat alternator output peaks at about 14.5 volts which by the time it gets to the leisure battery it has lost another couple of points. I will say that Roller Team have been very generous with wire sizes, other brands my be less well blessed. These days it's all about cost and weight reduction and big wires are heavy.

Delta Conversions are the UK sales distributor for Nordelettronica, I thought I'd see if they could offer any advice regards fitting a B2B, I got a single reply, "it can't be done", I asked another question but they didn't reply. Being told it can't be done made me look harder to see if I could prove them wrong. There wasn't much help on the net, one person had said to remove one of the surface mount resistor from the PCB to disable the split charge relay which is mounted on the PCB in the Nord' controller. An Italian owner had asked a similar question to me on an Italian forum but I couldn't find out whether he was successful or not.

The web has much info most useless but some it true and backed up with photos, there has been a small number of PCB track failures so one thing I wanted to do was off load some of the heavy current loads from the PCB.

So here are the modifications in order:

First mod: connect a 35mm2 cable from the leisure battery -ve to the Fiat starter battery ground point. The ground point is in the floor under your passengers right heel when sat in the passenger seat, it has the braided earth strap from the battery -ve. This made quite a difference with a smaller volt drop than the standard Roller Team earth return.

Second mod: A Thetford 3 way fridge consumes about 15 amps at 12 V DC while driving and this current has to pass through the PCB. Disconnect the white fridge connector from the PCB, the coil wires of a 30A automotive relay are connected in its place with two 1/4" slide-on tags (just visible in this image).
fridge.jpg
Take a pair of 6mm2 cables from the starter battery, the negative can be fitted into the fridge plug. Large Yellow 1/4" slide-on male tags take the 6mm2 cable and fit into plug. The positive fused supply connects to the relay N/O contact, the C is connected to the fridge plug observing polarity. If this mod is not carried out and the fridge is left connected as standard it would take its 15 amps from the 30 the B2B can supply, slowing the charging process and discharging the leisure battery when the engine is off.

Third mod: At the base of the drivers side B pillar are the "Converters Connectors", I believe these are the same no matter what make of Fiat based motorhome you have. Disconnect the power connector {the connector with the big red and black wires). Leisure battery charging is now disabled.
converters.jpg

Without this connection the Nord' control panel flashes a starter battery error, to cure this......

Fourth mod: The other end of the +ve wire from the above connector goes to J1 on the PCB, disconnect this, insulate it and stow. Make a link wire to connect PCB J1 to J2, with a length of 10mm2 wire and two 5mm tags.

Next connect the B2B pos and neg I/P to the starter battery with 16mm2 wire and a 60 Amp fuse as recommended by Victron. As I used the Non-Isolated B2B I only needed to run a single 16mm2 +ve wire direct to the +ve terminal of the leisure battery with another 60 Amp fuse as recommended by Victron.

Our van has a Nordelettronica NE287 battery charger fitted. After the above mods it only charges the leisure battery, I do have an Ablemail AMT 12-2 battery maintainer https://wildebus.com/product/ablemail-amt-12-battery-maintainer/ ,this trickle charges the stater battery when the leisure battery reaches a high enough state of charge. The NE287 was set for a flooded battery type at the factory, this is probably to protect the starter battery, I changed this to AGM.

I intend to fit a LiFePo4 battery in the future, I feel that the high charge current a LiFePo4 can draw could damage the PCB or the relay, the above changes with the B2B fixes that.

This image shows a ~30 Amp charge into the leisure battery which has a 77 SoC with the engine at tick-over. The B2B is in Bulk mode so current limited, the battery terminal voltage is at 13.62 volts. The voltage rose to 14.7 volts at a near 30 amps before going into float mode. The starter battery was at 14.21 volts for most of the time at idle, the B2B was producing 14.7 volts at its output in Absorption.
30amps.jpg

Once installed I recommend you check/adjust the "Engine shutdown detection" and "Input voltage lock-out". With the default setting the B2B was reluctant to disconnect when the engine was switched off. Having raised the levels the B2B has disconnected immediately the engine has been switched off.

I hope this helps some one in the future
 
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Did you consider putting the relay in the leisure battery feed to the Nordelectronica controller controlled by D+, that way the B2B would charge the leisure battery and the split charge would supply the Nordelettronica and the fridge while the engine is running. There is enough capacitance in the system to keep everything alive at relay changeover.
 
Did you consider putting the relay in the leisure battery feed to the Nordelectronica controller controlled by D+, that way the B2B would charge the leisure battery and the split charge would supply the Nordelettronica and the fridge while the engine is running. There is enough capacitance in the system to keep everything alive at relay changeover.

I did consider a relay in the LB feed but dismissed it for these reason plus a few others.

I wanted to run the fridge on a separate feed to reduce in volt drop in the line and save the PCB tracks having to carry the ~15 amps it draws whilst driving.

I did some tests simulating the relay and noted the Nord' panel reboot, this may have been through a momentary loss of power as the relays switched.

Another relay is just something else to fail.

With my setup all charges (solar 1, solar 2 and the B2B) go direct to the battery through fuses. All loads leave the battery on a second lead then through a Battery Protect.

Should the Battery Protect disconnect the loads the Solar chargers and the B2B can still charge the battery.
 
Thanks for the great information and guidance. I'm about to do a similar upgrade but wanted to ask about the 'revised' fridge connections. I have a new relay and will connect the switching side to the surface mount as per your notes above but wondered if I could use the starter battery feed previously connected on J1 on the NE196 direct to the relay to power the fridge by connecting direct to the fridge multiway connector that I disconnect from the 'board. A neutral could also be made between the board and J3 (I Think is the board neutral) That way the board controls the separate relay alleviating the thru current but utilises the existing wiring. I will of course run 16mm cable for the Victron B2B via the appropriate fuse.
Any help or advice most welcome
 
Thanks for the great information and guidance. I'm about to do a similar upgrade but wanted to ask about the 'revised' fridge connections. I have a new relay and will connect the switching side to the surface mount as per your notes above but wondered if I could use the starter battery feed previously connected on J1 on the NE196 direct to the relay to power the fridge by connecting direct to the fridge multiway connector that I disconnect from the 'board. A neutral could also be made between the board and J3 (I Think is the board neutral) That way the board controls the separate relay alleviating the thru current but utilises the existing wiring. I will of course run 16mm cable for the Victron B2B via the appropriate fuse.
Any help or advice most welcome
I think you should be able to use the redundant feed and terminated at the relay. That lead is fused at 40 or 50 amp on the Fiat side I believe.

My install was done in stages the the fridge wiring was done before the B2B was fitted.

Hope that helps.
 
I think you should be able to use the redundant feed and terminated at the relay. That lead is fused at 40 or 50 amp on the Fiat side I believe.

My install was done in stages the the fridge wiring was done before the B2B was fitted.

Hope that helps.
Thanks for that, I think this method will simplify my install but gain the benefits you kindly described.
 
Hi,
I have a motorhome with the same EBL. I have a LiFePO4 battery and a 25A Schaudt booster. The booster is connected directly between the batteries, so there is a potentially uncontrolled current flow through RE1. My battery has got a bluetooth monitor, so I can see the current, it is 50A when driving. Fifty !
So doing a simple math the RE1 current is about 25A. I'm planning to add another leisure battery. This could cause J1 and RE1 current to be 50A (with a fridge off). J1 would carry even more current with the fridge on. Reading about all those complicated modifications above, I think the primary concern is not the sufficient current delivered to the LB (this could be changed by adding a bigger booster at the direct connection), but a potentially dangerous current flowing through J1 and RE1. Is not adding a small booster on J1 a simple, current limiting solution ? The fridge will be happy, the LB will get whatever is left over via RE1. I'm thinking about the Votronic VCC 1212-30. The benefit is that it has a "backflow" circuit, to show the starter battery voltage when the engine is off and allows to trickle-charge the starter battery when on mains (if I understand the manual correctly). What do you think ?
 
Hi,
I actually solved this problem by replacing NE196T with NE356T which has got a jumper to deactivate the RE1. 210EUR + fitting (it's a one-to-one replacement).
 
Hi.
I wonder if you could enlighten me on my setup. I have a Li-Po battery installed and my solar charger is Li compatible and I have changed the algorithim of my mains battery charger to Li-Po. However I have the same issue with charging from the alternator. I am running a similar fuseholder shunt (NE185 S) the only difference appears to be it has a shunt on JP10. It has a coupler relay enabling function.
J5 : COUPLER RELAY ENABLING When the bond is removed the shunt no longer couples the batteries with the engine running.
I read this as an option to disconnect the two batteries and therefore to be able to run a B2B charger from the starter to the house battery or even change my solar controller to one which incorporates a DC-DC charger. Have I got this wrong as it seems to simple compared to the trouble you have gone thru to achieve the same result? I have attached the schematics for my system below.
Tony
 

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  • KIT-NE185S_R2.pdf
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I have the NE184.2 Fuse box? disturbution panel. I too want to replace my batteries with Lithium. My problem is I can't find a wiring diagram anywhere. I am neverious the battery charger fitted will damage my lithium batteries. I brought the Moho ( Ace Airstream on Fiat Ducato) a few months back & it came with a Victron MMPT 75/15 wired directly into the Leisure battery on the NE184. There is also a manual switch on the NE184 for the battery charger, with EHU & this switch on the Victron just flashes blue. Anyone have experience of upgrading this kit?
 
For now I just want to transfer fridge load direct to the battery whilst maintaining all the NE196 functionality.
I interpret this initial thread as per diagram attached - is this correct?
ThanksIMG_6652.jpeg
 
@xsilvergs - please remember to print out your message (and any others documenting your mods!) and add them to the paperwork for the van. Future owners will thank you!
 
great info! Do you know how to make the fridge always run on 12v. I want it on 12v when the engine not running as well. 240v means I have to waste energy by running the inverter as well.
 

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