I will check the size of the flame in the morning. And clean the end of the probe.
The fridge is automatic- or set manually by scrolling through 12v, mains or gas.
When gas is chosen it starts clicking and the burner ignites. The issue is that the clicking does not stop even if the burner is running.
After a time, about 15 seconds, the gas is turned off.
It has happened before, but perseverance worked. Not this time though.
So what you have is the ionization flame sensor not passing enough current to keep the valve open but as you do get ignition my initial reaction is that the valve itself is obviously ok.
The flame sensor issue could be positioning - either not in flame or correct distance from 'earth' which you can check/adjust.
Or it could be the 'electronics' at the control end.
It's a combined ignitor probe & sensor so whilst the voltage/current for the spark to get through is enough to surmount a bad connection the ionization current is very small so it's possible that a poor connection might be a issue.
Just taking it off or wiggling it may do the trick?
However Jagmanx has had a problem with the valve opening initially but not staying open suggesting two separate feeds to the solenoid.
If there are two then you can check whether there is voltage to both and at which time.
No volts on second phase points the finger at control unit.
On the older manual fridges this was self contained and all it did was turn off the spark when ionization worked, gas flow being controlled by the thermocouple. However with a solenoid valve there has to be some electronic switch maintaining current to hold it open after the initial 15 second start period.
As a matter of interest what fault code do you get?
I note that nearly all the actions in the check list are 'see a dealer' but it might be interesting to know what the system says.
Try this video for tips - pity he didn't have the torch he recommended using