My campervan build

[HTF]

Back on track . As anyone can see, by hobby is an extension of my job and what good is your skills and knowledge if you don't apply it. That being said, my electrical system is controlled by 2 simple Siemens Logo smart relays with a display panel that are networked and connected to a 4G router. Everything is controlled by these 2 simple PLC's (Programmable Logic Controllers). In addition I made some laser cut panels to install various instruments to monitor the systems. I have a 230V powered battery charger that I can connect to shore power mainly to keep the van's battery topped up during long periods of inactivity. The camper batteries can be completely switched off with a main switch but it's not wise to do the same with the van battery. The "control zone" is mounted on the trim panel above the sliding door and include the battery charger control which includes the step monitor and external power cable connected (an alarm is sounded if I start the van with this cable connected even without power or the step in the out position), solar regulator remote display, AC and DC power monitors and the PLC display. There is a whole lot of wires to connect all these systems.

 

[HTF]

Here we go again . The rest of the electrical equipment is located under the back seat. I have 3 AGM 12v 95 aHr batteries running in parallel with space for a fourth. On top is a 1500 W/2000 W peak 230 v 50Hz pure sine wave inverter and on the right, the 40 A MPPT solar controller. There is an emergency manual cut off switch in case anything bad should happen but I think there are more than enough fuses to protect the wiring.
When I press the power up button, a certain sequence must happen to avoid damages. The PLC is powered up and the battery voltage measured and if ok, the sequence begins. The main power relay is energized first. It's important that the solar charger is connected to the batteries before the solar panel so, it's relay does this and then the solar, pumps in sequence, fridge and so on with the inverter connected last. All systems can be individually activated and deactivated by the PLC control panel. The PLC also monitors the van door lock/unlock condition and I'm able to do this remotely through my phone. When the van is started, the alternator voltage is checked and if necessary, the camper batteries are also connected to the alternator.

 

[HTF]

All it's left now are the little things like my special bike rack, front window blinds and how I converted a portable household LG Inverter air conditioner to fit in my garage

But first, I would to know your opinion on the build. What could be changed or added

 

[HTF]

I have mentioned before that I like to have a space for everything, when you need it it's easy to reach. We buy 5 liter jugs of water for cooking and drinking so, a little battery powered pump makes it easy to pour. I also have a ABF fire extinguisher right behind the kitchen counter, a place for the small vacuum cleaner to charge, shower proof toilet paper holder , paper towel roll in arm's reach, fold out towel rack by the external shower, picnic table and chairs and so on. Once again IKEA was the source of the privacy curtain and I cut one of those thick felt office sound dampers also from IKEA to cover the shelf above the front compartment.

The fan that can be seen behind the passenger seat is a 230 V unit connected to a smart plug and can be switched on and off through the Internet. The inverter is always connected so, 230 V is always available.

 

[HTF]

Looking at the prices they charge for those built in blinds for the font windows I had to look elsewhere , once again I found some automatic ones at IKEA so, a little adapting and they fit very well.

 

[HTF]

The bike rack . Initially I intended to store the 2 bicycles we use in the "garage" but, the front wheels would have to be removed so I decided they would go outside. Hanging them on the fragile doors was out of the question so, I replaced the flimsy bended sheet metal bumper with a reinforced rectangular piece of section strong enough to mount a tow hitch. Looking at the options for hitch mounted bike racks, they would be in the way of the back doors and ride low covering the rear lights and licence plate.
Back to the drawing board I went and decided on building something that would swivel like a 4x4 spare tyre. Had a steel shaft turned and mounted 2 taper bearings on a swing support. I decided to make a different style support that would securely hold the bike and make it difficult to be stolen. Since I have access to a CNC plasma cutter at work, I gave it a little style and with the aid of an electric actuator, I could lower the bikes to load and unload and then move them out of the way.

https://flic.kr/p/2p3mJsE

 

[HTF]

The first trip went well and since I can connect the rearview camera while driving, I could check every now and then how things were. Although everything was in the same place after the more than 1200 km journey, on some bumpy roads the bikes would swing and I didn't want to risk some overzealous Policeman stopping me and saying that the rack might break so, I removed the actuator and arms and designed a small bumper with rear lights and licence plate. I didn't want to have physical connection to the light so a special contact system was designed.

 

[HTF]

By the end of that first trip I started to see a little water drip from the roof down the side of the van. A quick inspection revealed that the solar panel sprung a leak . The "so called" special contact glue from 3M didn't resist the heat and let go and possibly the vibration must have done something to the piping interface. I't wasn't a big leak but I didn't want to risk so, I deactivated the solar circulation pump and the few days left of the vacation meant cold showers but, is was summer

Back at headquarters and after a close inspection, I found that the problem was worse and drastic measures had to be taken. I felt that anything I would glue to that EVA material from the inside of the solar panel would eventually come lose so another solution came up. Since I wasn't going to put a rooftop air conditioner over the back skylight anymore, I had some space so, if a "Hybrid Solar Panel" didn't work, I would get a thermal one

To maximize the area available, 2 separate panels would be required so, I bought 15 meters of copper pipe, a little plywood and still had some of that (you guessed it ) aircraft aluminium. Glued and screwed the aluminium to the plywood for back insulation, grabbed the pipe bender and made some zigzag coils of copper pipe. Some thermal tape was stuck between the tubing and the aluminium and some clamps were added. 3 layers of thick aluminium tape was used to conduct the heat from the aluminium back panel to the copper pipe. A few coats of high temperature mat black finish it off (fresh paint looks glossy ) This meant a few more rivet nuts and sealant on the roof and redirection of the pipes. It worked better than expected. The temperature readings show the (tºAmb) ambient, (tºSol) return water temperature just before it enters the tank and (tºDep) the tank temperature. The readings were taken on the beginning of April after 4 hours of sun exposure. The readings were taken You can see in the photo of the uninsulated tank 1- circulation pump and 2- backup water heater.

 

[trevskoda]

Think i would have used gas for water heating saving the poor roof and you a lot of work.

 

[HTF]

From the beginning I planed an air conditioner for the sleeping area but after looking at the prices, I gave up. I wasn't going to pay around 2000€ for a rooftop air conditioner that must run on shore 230V or special inverter. I like to go anywhere and don't condition my stay on the availability of 230 Vac so, an alternative had to be found.
Looking around I found a nice little Inverter Drive portable air condition from LG with 8500 Btu/h which would only draw a maximum of 910 W and this is a variable power draw since the inverter will only run the compressor needed speed so, I had the power for it. Ordered it online for 450€ and when it arrived, it was a little bigger than I expected. This meant that I had to find room in the garage and a connection for the hot air to the outside.
Found some space above the rear wheel but the 200 liter tank was in the way. Had already noted that the visits to the service station in my case is regulated by the cassette capacity and not water, I could reduce the main water tank to half the size. This meant that I would have a long and low space and not the short high space needed.
The aircon had to go through some surgery

Tested everything was working before removing the covers and compromise the warranty and then, the warranty went out the door

After a close inspection I found that would be very easy to transform it from skinny tall to shorty long. The top evaporator (cold) side was separated from the bottom condenser (hot) and the fans were totally enclosed so, I made a sled and carefully positioned the two parts without damaging teh pipes. I was prepared to cut them and refill the gas but it wasn't necessary

These units come with a flexible pipe to blow the hot air to the outside. Air from the inside is blown through the condenser to cool it and blown outside. In a big room, this isn't much of an issue but in a small camper, this would mean that a vacuum would have the inside air replaced by hot outside through probably the van's vent to the outside.

2 grills to the outside were opened on the side and some water protection channels were added. The cold air generated was enclosed in a "box" where the conduits route the air through 2 vents over the bed and below the bed trim to the cabin. The hot air output was in a awkward position so a little enclosure was made.

As a bonus, the aircon is online and I can monitor the ambient temperature and switch it on when we leave the beach and arrive to a cool van

 

[HTF]

Think i would have used gas for water heating saving the poor roof and you a lot of work.

Solar is free and it's all about the challenges. I set my mind to it and have to see it through
You may have noticed by now that I don't play by the rules, I like to make my own

 

[HTF]

All that's left to show is the airbag "spring helper" I installed. Any questions, feel free to ask.

 

[HTF]

"Spring helper" Being close to the maximum weight of 3500 kg, the back suspension was riding on the rubber stops so, I decided to install some air springs just to help the original ones. Looking around I could only find kits at prices I wasn't willing to pay. Tried to find just the airbags around here, only big truck types could be found so, tried Amazon.com and voilá, a pair of airbags for the Ford F150 for less than 200€ including import duties and taxes. In less than a week they arrived and it was time to make some adapter plates. Fortunately there was a M14 threaded insert next to the one on the rubber bump stop and I could use these to holes to mount the top adapter plate. The airbags anso come with threaded inserts so a square plate was made to bolt these and 2 standoffs were welded to the top adapter plate to allow space for the air fitting. On the bottom a saddle clamp was used to mount to the axle. They are each connected to a block of aluminium with a gauge (these have a 30 Bar scale but they are robust and being recycled, I could not get a better price ) and a tyre style filling valve. I can fill them individually with my small compressor and stay that way. Around 1,90 bar is all its needed to ease the weight on the mainsprings. The van has already gone through an MOT inspection and the guy said that it was ok. If there were any issues about it, I could remove it before going there.

 

[HTF]

So, this concludes all the works. I hope you folks liked

 

[bjh]

Fantastic conversion. Would love to do something to the same standard, but it would take me much longer than 18 months and not sure at my age(76) I would have time to finish it

 

[HTF]

Fantastic conversion. Would love to do something to the same standard, but it would take me much longer than 18 months and not sure at my age(76) I would have time to finish it

Thanks. I was a little younger when I started (56) and everybody said that I couldn't do it . I just had to prove to them and myself I could. You just have to do one small step at a time

 

[HTF]

Changed my battery bank from 3 automotive Lucas start/stop AGM 95 ah batteries to 3 AGM deep cycle 125 ah. Not a big difference in size and weight but quite a difference in capacity. Now I can run my compressor refrigerator and separate 20 L freezer without worries. I don't like being dependent on "shore" power.

 

[trevskoda]

Changed my battery bank from 3 automotive Lucas start/stop AGM 95 ah batteries to 3 AGM deep cycle 125 ah. Not a big difference in size and weight but quite a difference in capacity. Now I can run my compressor refrigerator and separate 20 L freezer without worries. I don't like being dependent on "shore" power.

Lead carbons are the way to go, van is a good job health to ware.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Lead carbons are the way to go, van is a good job health to ware.

Can we have a translation into Hinglsh please.

 

[trevskoda]

Can we have a translation into Hinglsh please.

Lead carbon batts big ears, saves all that heating mat stuff with lithiums.