Talbot express talisman 2 dead

Hi everyone.

So, although the Van's starts and idles ok when I tried to drive it today its misfiring really badly and has almost no power.

I looked online a bit and people suggested various things. So from that I swapped the fuel pump , distributor and coil back to the old ones. But it's still popping and cutting out on me.

Any suggestions as to what this issue could be? Is it related somehow to the previous issue?
 
Looking down at the distributor cap centre bottom (closest to radiator) is 1.

Anti-clockwise the order is 1342.

It idles and revs I’m neutral fine so I don’t think it’s the order. But may be wrong.

Not sure about timing. I don’t know enough to do that. But I haven’t changed anything to affect it I don’t think at least.
 
The only time I've experienced erratic running like that was when I had an air leak due to a damaged gasket, but that was with a petrol engine.
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My van is a 2.0l petrol.

Which valve was it? Did it show symptoms like this? Idling fine but popping and spluttering when driving and cutting out?
 
If you touched the distributor or moved it round then the timing is out,as a gen rule turn engine to top dead centre,rool back and bring back to about 5 deg before tdc,the points should just open ,can be done with egnon and sometimes see a spark or hear a click,if you have a multy meter then with the egn of and remove the wire to the coil from points,then set m/meter to ohms,connect one end to eth and other to points wire,when setting the timing by moving the dist the needle on the meter will fall when the path is broken,a bulb 12v can also be used with a live egn between the pionts wire and coil.
If alls well then look at main jet in carb as from what you say it idles so the idle jet is clear.
I was always taught spark/timing and fuel,it must run if both are present and correct.
 
Have you checked the air filter. You might have a colony of mice living in there. Apart from that, it could be a faulty advance/retard spring on the Distributor. That could be OK idling but give a problem under load.
 
As Trev as already mentioned above it sounds like when you have changed the distributor you have not got the timing back correct. Or it could be one or more plug leads that are not in the correct order.
 
If you touched the distributor or moved it round then the timing is out,as a gen rule turn engine to top dead centre,rool back and bring back to about 5 deg before tdc,the points should just open ,can be done with egnon and sometimes see a spark or hear a click,if you have a multy meter then with the egn of and remove the wire to the coil from points,then set m/meter to ohms,connect one end to eth and other to points wire,when setting the timing by moving the dist the needle on the meter will fall when the path is broken,a bulb 12v can also be used with a live egn between the pionts wire and coil.
If alls well then look at main jet in carb as from what you say it idles so the idle jet is clear.
I was always taught spark/timing and fuel,it must run if both are present and correct.

This sounds beyond my abilities. I wouldn’t know how to know if it’s at the top dead centre etc.
I’ve touched the distributor several times replacing it and swapping back so I guess the timing is out.

Time to try get a professional to look at it - hopefully I can get someone out.
 
You need to turn the engine manually until the timing mark on front pulley is inline with pointer .
Then remove dizzy cap and look if rotor arm is pointing at position of number one lead. Make a mental note of which way rotor arm moves when turning engine forward . that will tell you where next cylinder to fire is, this should be lead to number three cylinder . Rotate distibutor untill points are just open. This is usually ok to start . You then need a timing light to set accurately . You can move dizzy with engine running to find "sweet spot" this will be close to correct timing .
 

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