Truma Combi red flashing light

taylo482001

taylo482001

Full Member

Messages
33
I went to air my van yesterday by turning on the blow heating, the control was set for gas only no hot water, after about 15 minutes the warning light was flashing red, I immediately turned off the heating and turned it back on 30 minutes later all ok for about 10 minutes again red light came on. I drained the water system back last year via the auto dump valve and left drain valves open, should I have filled the water system prior to turning on the blow heating? All batteries are fully charged and the gas is flowing fine to the cooker hob. Am I missing something obvious???
Attached control's showing settings. Red light not flashing yet.
IMG_20210107_115155.jpg
 
When you have reproduced the fault, do not touch the controls. Go to the boiler and remove the "connection cover". This should reveal, inter alia, an LED that should be producing a repeating sequence of long and/or slow flashes. Record the sequence and then check it against one of these diagnostic files:

139 (dometicrvcentre.com.au)
Blinkcodeliste / List of flash codes (telenet.be)

The latter appears to be the more recent (27/10/2011 vs 02/08/2010 - or perhaps 08/02/2010 if US format).
 
I had similar a few years back. It turned out to be the gas regulator - it was allowing enough through for the hob, fridge etc but couldn’t cope with the gas heating demand. Replaced the regulator and all good. In answer to your query about filling with water again this should not be necessary. The system is ok to run on dry if used for air heating only and not switched to water heating as well.
 
There can be a wide range of causes. My (subsequently stolen) moho produced a flashing red warning light on the controls due to overheating of cabling, which had been installed (presumably by the moho manufacturer) too close to the hot air trunking. This was not spotted by the Truma approved moho dealership that had several attempts at resolving the problem, in the course of which they killed both leisure batteries and the engine battery and cut a large ventilation hole in the floor of the boiler compartment. It was Truma's UK Technical Dept. at Foston (near Uttoxeter) that eventually diagnosed and sorted the problem (expressing horror at the ventilation hole, which simply reduced the efficiency of the boiler!).
Use of the diagnostic codes should help to centre on a likely cause.
 
TJBi said:
When you have reproduced the fault, do not touch the controls. Go to the boiler and remove the "connection cover". This should reveal, inter alia, an LED that should be producing a repeating sequence of long and/or slow flashes. Record the sequence and then check it against one of these diagnostic files:

139 (dometicrvcentre.com.au)
Blinkcodeliste / List of flash codes (telenet.be)

The latter appears to be the more recent (27/10/2011 vs 02/08/2010 - or perhaps 08/02/2010 if US format).
Click to expand...
The OP hasn't said what model Truma it is so the flashing light diagnostics might not work as these are for the newer Combi 4 and 6 models, I don't think the earlier models had this facility. So it may help if he tells us what model he's got?

Regards,
Del
 
alwaysared said:
The OP hasn't said what model Truma it is so the flashing light diagnostics might not work as these are for the newer Combi 4 and 6 models, I don't think the earlier models had this facility. So it may help if he tells us what model he's got?

Regards,
Del
Click to expand...
Thanks all you guys for the response and advice, The model is the Truma E it is built into my Adria Sport A571SP The other day when I came across the issue it was showing -7c on the dash so did think about the regulator valve, the larger hob ring did push out more gas pressure when the heater cut out. Batteries are showing 14.3v so the power appears to be ok.
 
taylo482001 said:
Thanks all you guys for the response and advice, The model is the Truma E it is built into my Adria Sport A571SP The other day when I came across the issue it was showing -7c on the dash so did think about the regulator valve, the larger hob ring did push out more gas pressure when the heater cut out. Batteries are showing 14.3v so the power appears to be ok.
Click to expand...
If it's a 4E or 6E then the chart that TJBi linked to will help you find the problem. (y)

Regards,
Del
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who viewed this discussion (Total:0)

Back
Top