Water tank connection

As Markd, if the fill pipe inlet is higher than tank top then it can be filled up to
that level or until it pours out of overflow whichever is lower.
If you want to fit a spigot to the tank top bore a hole in the floor, the spigot
should only have a flange on it, easily accommodated by the 10mm space.
You will need hand access to the tank interior to tighten the backnut.
A welded spigot should need no space or hatch Just make sure the spigot shaft is long
enough to enable a circlip to be fastened just above the floor for the 40mm ? flexible
hose.
 
Markd said:
There may be no capacity reduction.
If the tank has a breather-overflow them you just fill up and water will be in the filler pipe up to top of tank.
Click to expand...
I still need to drop the tank to be able to drill a large hole in the top to fit a screw cap through which I can reach inside so I can fit the backnut of a tank connector. See what I mean? The fix just gets more and more complex. (And that tank looks heavy hence the 3 steel bands holding it up.) I have just removed the solenoid valve but now I need to order quick release fittings to bridge the gap, hence why I am on the PC now. I have checked the pipework and it is as stated, 12mm odia and 9mm idia. Even if I fitted new pipework, the bores in the new plastic fittings are around the same. Look at the hole through a hozelock fitting. So I'm not going to gain anything.
Now while typing, I think I will buy a new valve which is only around 4 quid. From photos, they look as if they don't have the restriction inside that the Muller valve has. If still the same, then the valve goes. Slight delay now as I will buy on Ebay. Local caravan dealer will rip me off for a new valve and fittings.
 
daygoboy said:
As Markd, if the fill pipe inlet is higher than tank top then it can be filled up to
that level or until it pours out of overflow whichever is lower.
If you want to fit a spigot to the tank top bore a hole in the floor, the spigot
should only have a flange on it, easily accommodated by the 10mm space.
You will need hand access to the tank interior to tighten the backnut.
A welded spigot should need no space or hatch Just make sure the spigot shaft is long
enough to enable a circlip to be fastened just above the floor for the 40mm ? flexible
hose.
Click to expand...
To keep the filler external, it would need to be below the top of the tank. Not keen on drilling another hole through the floor. Another source of damp creeping into the laminate. Besides, the tank still needs dropping for that hand access. Have decided new pipe is not the answer. see my other post.
 
Empty tank (assume PVC) weighs just a few kilos.
CAK Tanks have a very good online catalogue.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
As daygoboy says the tank itself won't be that heavy but full of water you need the heavy duty strap hangers.
This is strange system the 'filler' point was originally intended as the tap supply point to a caravan type system with an external tank. So high capacity was not required and it was never really meant for this purpose
Glad to read that you've settled on your solution.
Look forward to an update when it's finished.
 
Last edited:
UPDATE: Glad I tried the valve option first. Fitted a new solenoid valve and everything is working perfectly now. I reckon the original valve was not opening fully when actuated, hence the slow fill. Thanks to evryone for your advice.
 
I have a whale filler on my Bailey MH. The connection block on the fill hose had a non return valve in mine. I removed it as it is a small diameter and that improved the fill time considerably.
 
daygoboy said:
You can get circular plastic access hatch with screw cap to allow getting
an arm into the, £7 or so on ebay. Just need to cut a hole in the tank
with a jig saw and bed the hatch in sealant drill screw holes for s/s fixing
screws. Then you can fit any size spigot with backnut you choose. No plastic
welding of spigot required.
Never come across a pressurised water tank in a M/H context, Normally an inline pump
draws water from the tank then pumps it under "pressure" on the adoutlet side to the taps,
wc etc.
Click to expand...
I had this problem with my FW tank. This was held in place with two straps. Just undid one side of each strap a dropped the tank out. The access appatures were on the top and I was now able to unscrew the cap to get my hand with spanner to the back of the fittings. I replaced the original fittings ( plastic) with new brass tank adapters so that the tap and hose connections are made externally.
I would not fit a new hatch as they are not that waterproof, and the experience I gained would say even with a new hatch you might not be able to contort your arm inside the tank to get at the fittings.
Which_ever. A good piece of advice. Before you put your hand in, remove any plastic flashings or internalburrs. I didn't. Couldn't get my arm back out and suffered the nightmare thought of turning up at the hospital with a 50 litre tank jammed on it!
 
Of course makes no sense to make a second access hatch unless unavoidable. If the
hatch is a bit small for arm access then cutting out the existing one for a larger dia.
replacement might be the solution, or going on a diet! Once or twice I've had to get a
backnut on in the tank by sticking it on a bit of wood with plasticine and getting
it started on the spigot thread before jamming the flats with another lump of wood.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who viewed this discussion (Total:0)

Back
Top