What Camera should I buy.

Geraldine

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Hi Guys, I wish to take good quality photos of waves and the pier down here in Worthing. Which camera would you recommend.
SLR digital? Not too expensive please.
Many thanks. David.
 
Hard question to answer without knowing more about your photographic skillset, budget, and what you want to achieve in the long term.

A point and shoot will give you nice shots (a phone camera is just as good), but might be a bit restricting if you want to learn more about how photography works

A 'bridge' camera is the next step towards full control - you'll have more zoom to control the framing of your shot, and more control over the configuration of how the photo is taken, but not removable lenses etc

Mirrorless cameras are a sub-set of DSLRs, they don't tend to have a viewfinder, you're looking at an LCD screen to help you create your photo, but other than that they are DSLRs with removable lenses.

Full DSLRs (Digital Single Lens Reflex) give you all the control, but will cost a lot more, especially once you get into it! They come in 2 varieties, APS and Full-size sensors (the difference is the size of the sensor capturing the image - essentially similar to different sized films), and there are several different lens-fitment systems: Nikon/Canon/Pentax/Olympus etc etc are all different, but you can use the vast majority of (say) Nikon lenses on any given Nikon camera body.


I personally like a simple, but controlled experience so I have a Nikon D50 body* with a standard 'kit' lens** and a couple of older, fully manual*** lenses which, conversely, are better quality glass than the Kit lens, despite being older.****.

What you want to buy will depend hugely on what you want to achieve, but if you're definitely thinking about going down the DSLR route, do a good amount of research because once you buy (say) a Nikon, you open the doors to buying more lenses (always Nikon fitment), and if you suddenly decide you want a Canon body for some reason, you'll have to replace ALL your existing lenses - which can get expensive!

* Nikon D50 - was a cheap, bottom of the range, but very capable at the time, 'pro-sumer' body with a 6Mp sensor and a cut-down suite of presets and control options compared to a fully professional body (eg Nikon D100).

** Kit lens - the lens the manufacturer chose to sell the body with as a 'kit' for consumers.

*** Fully manual - no auto-focus, no chip in the lense to identify it to the camera body and allow the body to control the lens aperture, so aperture is controlled manually on the lens, shutter speed by the control on the camera, and metering (balancing the exposure by control of aperture/shutter-speed/ISO) is by educated guesswork.

**** Older lenses tend (not always) to be made somewhat stronger than modern plastic lenses, this is a generalisation. They're available in very good quality, second hand, from all the usual sources.
 
I have a Panasonic bridge camera it has great zoom many Manuel features .I don't think you will find much differences from the premium brands ,SLR may give better quality photo ,but with an SLR you may be tempted to buy more lenses an end up carrying a heavy bag .in the end it may be all down to cost .
 
Thank you for your replies so far. You do seem to know your stuff Rockburner many thanks.
My friend who use to work in a camera shop has recommended the Canon EOS 800 D.
Not looked it up yet.
 
Thank you for your replies so far. You do seem to know your stuff Rockburner many thanks.
My friend who use to work in a camera shop has recommended the Canon EOS 800 D.
Not looked it up yet.

I'm just an amateur who likes the physical experience of doing things. :) (I'm also a techie geek so I tend to do my research!)

If you're definitely going for a DSLR, remember to be careful of your budget and not get excited. This is where using 2nd hand, older lenses can come in handy. ;) Remember too, that each new camera model in a market sector only has incremental improvements on the previous model, some of which are only really relevant or usable by professional, full-time photographers.

I'd also say that if you're going for a DSLR and wanting to use another lense, look at it like bags, tripods, shoulder straps etc BEFORE you decide which body to buy. Simply because you WILL end up buying all these other accessories in time, so if you can set yourself a budget for your first year, and stick to it, you won't be wasting any money if you decide it's all too faffy in the end.

(I've been through this process twice now, it doesn't matter how much you promise yourself you don't need this or that accessory... you'll end up with it!)

Also - be aware that you'll be expected to be the photographer whenever your friends and family gather, and that they'll hate you for it too. ;)
 
Oh yeah - before you even think about what make/model - go to a few camera shops and try as many as possible in your hands. It's like buying clothing or shoes - some will fit you, some won't. See how they feel in your hand, how heavy/light they are, where the controls are in relation to your fingers/thumbs, how easy the switches move etc etc. Any decent camera shop will allow you to do this, and if they don't? Then they've lost your custom.

Play with the menu structures, even if you don't understand what all the settings are, its good to know how easy the various settings are to access, how easy the menus are to follow, how bright/dark the LCD backscreen is - etc etc.


This is how I ended up with the Nikon D50 the second time around. It's the same camera I had 10 years ago (I sold off all my kit because at the time I needed the money and had lost my enthusiasm), so when I decided to take up the hobby again late last year/ this year, I knew I wanted to (at least) start out with the Nikon D50 because I knew it.
 
If you're in Worthing, then you're close enough to spend a day in Brighton, IIRC there's several photography shops in Brighton, both new stuff and 2nd hand.

These guys are good. http://www.clocktowercameras.co.uk/


I'd also recommend joining a photo forum or two, (a specific forum for the camera you buy is a good idea) and finding somewhere to store your photos online. There's several services (I happen to use Flickr, because they retain the original photo file, some others don't), so you can take your pick.
 
The list of top recommended brands tends to change a little over the years but I think the rule of thumb for ages has been to buy Canon or Nikon DSLRs. Sony have come back into vogue again too and have started topping some lists again. Mind you, some of the best photos I think I've ever seen in the last few years came from a Leica. My daughter has a Canon bridge camera and takes wonderful photos, so I think - unless you're a pro - the lines have blurred a lot. My niece does wedding photography and has always used something in the Canon EOS series. I invested too much in my DSLR to start again now but, if I did, I think I'd probably go for a bridge camera rather than carry around a bunch of lenses. Because my kit is bulky, I can't often be bothered with it and just tend to use my phone these days! If you do go for a bridge or compact, buy one with the best optical zoom you can afford.
 
Thank you for your replies so far. Like button on your threads not working at the mo, I think due to only 9% battery life.
Will let you guys Know how I get on in due course. Cheers.
 
I reckon that a decent Olympus OM 5, should do it with only a small mortgage to take out. If you look around now there are fixed lens cameras that do not take bad pictures at all, point and shoot with only a few extras will do you nicely.
If I want to take pictures of a pier I use my DJI phantom 4 P as it a lot easier to get interesting shots from different angle that just standing on the beach:unsure::confused:
 
I reckon that a decent Olympus OM 5, should do it with only a small mortgage to take out. If you look around now there are fixed lens cameras that do not take bad pictures at all, point and shoot with only a few extras will do you nicely.
If I want to take pictures of a pier I use my DJI phantom 4 P as it a lot easier to get interesting shots from different angle that just standing on the beach:unsure::confused:

This is why I asked about the type of photos Geraldine wants to take: If she wants to take long exposure photos (that make the sea look like mist), then I don't know how well equipped 'bridge' cameras are for that sort of thing. Generally you'd need filters and a lot of control over the exposure settings.
 
Have a look at the Nikon D3400 AF-P 18/55 VR Camara Reflex think this is a manual focus .. If you want auto focus get the AF S range of lens...
 
Panasonic DMX G7, mirrorless with electronic view finder and interchageable lenses. Lightweight and the picture quality is superb (G9 is better) and the video recording is amongst the best available and very light compared to DSLRs. My son has one, I still use a Canon 1D MK3 (APC sensor, the one that Rockburner forgot lol) and although the picture quality is still excellent I'm finding it rather heavy now but I have so many good lenses for it I'm reluctant to make the switch, maybe now Canon have finally taken the mirrorless market seriously I may consider changing to the EOS R series. But at the end of the day (it's night!) it doesn't matter what brand you have their all pretty good nowadays.

Regards,
Del
 
Have a look at the Nikon D3400 AF-P 18/55 VR Camara Reflex think this is a manual focus .. If you want auto focus get the AF S range of lens...


AF means it's auto-focus.

AI-P means the lens has a built in computer to tell the camera metring information. (this is the old usage of the 'P' designation)

AF-S means it's auto-focus with a built in "Silent-Wave" electric motor that draws power from the camera battery to turn the lens elements, rather than using the focus motor within the camera. :) (It will also have the metring computer).

AF-P is the newer designation for lenses with a 'stepper' motor (it's a different style of electric motor, quieter).
 
Hi, It really depends on what you want to take pictures of and your budget. Any camera in the last 10 years is excellent and they get better every year. Bridge cameras are a fantastic compromise as they do everything well and your not needing to buy loads of lenses. If you go for a DSLR then forget pixel numbers, they mean nothing. Full frame generally a tad sharper and a bit less noise but more expensive in general. If you go for a DSLR or mirrorless, then invest in glass not pixels. Perhaps a good second hand camera would be a good start. I cant recommend any as I said they are all excellent these days. I have x3 and approx. £30,000 of camera gear but then again...im a wildlife addict but starting out id go for a good second hand camera with a decent all around lens.
 
If you go for a DSLR or mirrorless, then invest in glass not pixels.
Great advice, even the most expensive body will give poor results with cheap glass on it.

Regards,
Del
 
WIN_20181119_15_29_53_Pro.jpgI have a proper DSLR camera which is great.
I also have this one it is a kodak Z612 and you can use the viewfinder or the screen to frame pictures this one is 10 years old and so is only 6MP...
But as has been said it is lens quality which matters
This one has a 12x OPTICAL zoom and although not that small is more convenient than my DSLR.
It has a rechargeable battery and this can be done off 240V or 12V

The thinks I like are
1 viewfinder
2 Rechargeable
3 many camera modes including fully manual / aperture priority/ shutter priority but I mainly use fully auto
4 Decent flash
5 Optical zoom
6 Video

https://cameradecision.com/compare/Kodak-EasyShare-Z612-vs-Sony-Cyber-shot-DSC-HX90V

Certainly a very good alternative to a full DSLR
Being 10 years old the memory cards are limited but I am sure a modern equivalent (maybe SONY) would overcome this
 

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