My big van had only 56 th miles on it and cost 2.400 bucks then all sorted on the rd for 6 grand.
No way would anyone here buy a van with excessive mileage,most here at auction with close to 100.the miles go for penuts ,4 to 5 hundred bucks.
Wilsons auction newtownabby or portadown,i always try to buy up the years with a fault which other cannot be bothered to fix,many with clutch trouble etc,dont go by the online price you have to be there on the day,first in the arena or last at night are best buys.Well Trev. I have just taken a looksie around several N.I. commercial sales sites and I have to say that the prices for second hand vans are very similar to those over here, so do you have any links to suggest where best to find the bargains you write about and which might make it worthwhile the costs associated with coming over to buy one.
Phil
My big van had only 56 th miles on it and cost 2.400 bucks then all sorted on the rd for 6 grand.
No way would anyone here buy a van with excessive mileage,most here at auction with close to 100.the miles go for penuts ,4 to 5 hundred bucks.
I don't know about other makes, but with newer (from mid-2000) VAG vehicles, it is essentially impossible to fully clock them. You can change and fiddle with the Odometer that is visible, but there is an internal ODO that is read using commercially available VCDS software which can be compared with the clock on display. Interestingly the two can actually slightly vary - my T5 numbers varied by around 3km on 167,000 miles (the internal ODO is always in Kms) - and there is a specifed variance level which is permitted.I have sold many vans to
Irish lads here that buy them to take to Ireland to sell, and on the few occasions that new buyers in Ireland have phoned me asking for mileage confirmation they have usually lost quite a few miles between here and Ireland.
The last one lost over 200,000 miles as it went from 239,000 to just a mere 39,000 miles.
You are 100% right there,still have a jago jeep and there were more engines /g boxes and diffs in it in seven years that i gave up,most never got past 40 th,ford were always known as sh one t when i were in the motor trade,bmc were not much better,a bettle was the only tool which lasted until jap rust buckets landed on our shores,now we all drive cars built else where.I overhauled many a Ford Crossflow 1200cc engine for friends. Two people and a scaffold pole could have the engine out easily. I used to time the overhaul for when I was on the right shifts. Take the engine to work, strip and steam clean everything. Drop the block and head at the machine shop, pick them up and rebuild with oversize pistons and rings. They only had 3 Main Bearings and you were lucky to get 40,000 miles out of them.
You are 100% right there,still have a jago jeep and there were more engines /g boxes and diffs in it in seven years that i gave up,most never got past 40 th,ford were always known as sh one t when i were in the motor trade,bmc were not much better,a bettle was the only tool which lasted until jap rust buckets landed on our shores,now we all drive cars built else where.
Yep and high sylicat/alloy pistons cnc tooling and as you say good oil have moved things on a tad,mind you i still dont understand engines being cast in heavy iron which requires more energy to cast/make,alloy wet liner is by far the best and easy to rebuild.You were still driving stuff built elsewhere back in the bmc/beetle/Ford days......
Even delorian used froggy based engines.....
Days of yore you were lucky to get much more than 80/100 k out of an engine before it needed work....
Days of my apprenticeship and bolting a van Norman boring rig to the top of an engine block in situ are frankly well gone.
Modern tech and oils/production methods have shifted things on a pace
Thankfully