Thetford electric flush.

Topmast

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Hi everyone.
Does anyone know if there is a fuse on the W.c electric flush on my elderly Hymer ? For some reason it’s stopped working I know water is getting to the unit because if the system is full a small amount runs into the bowl when the flusher is pressed but the pump fails to kick in ( works on all other taps) . Looking in from the cassette end I can see the bottom of the electric switch but to far to reach for investigation as it is old plastic I am unwilling to try removing without knowing how it dismantles.Any helpfully suggestions ?. Thanks in advance.
 
Well I cannot speak generally, but when ours died I pulled out the loo roll container and beneath it was the pump. Rather than pay the silly price that thetford were asking, I got a generic one, but my problem turned out to be the switch, so I bought a cheap bell push which not only did the job, but also lit up the loo
 
Thanks Oppy but the pump is in the water tank and is working o.k. So think it must be electrical.
 
Can you not bypass the flush push and bridge the wires should work then if it’s the switch
 
When I had a problem on my last Burstner, it was the switch that was faulty.

I'm surprised that the fuse is not near the outside cassette door though. If it is the bench type, they are a bugger to remove but if you cannot reach the fuse, you have little choice.
 
We have not used the flush for most of the time we have had our van, over ten years now. We quickly realised that we were filling the cassette with water and the cleaning power of the flush was very limited. As necessary we wipe the toilet bowl with toilet paper and every evening a more thorough clean with a wet wipe after it has been used for body parts, wet wipe is not put into the cassette. This approach means our fresh water lasts longer and we can go longer between cassette dumps - up to a week in the uk with 2 of us. Limiting the amount of urine in the cassette, through using a pee bottle, significantly reduces the odour. In Europe things are easier due to the availability of aires.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies I will try bridging the wires if I can find where they run ,however Hymer wiring is a law unto itself.And yes filling the cassette with flushing water is not ideal but has worked for us so will try to restore.
 
Our CW has no flush tank so isn’t the same as yours. You can see the fuse for ours from the cassette door though as Jim says
 
That's what went worng with mine once, but when I flushed the toilet the water came slowly out of the taps :eek:

Regards,
Del

Sorry I got that wrong, the water came out of the toilet flush when the taps were turned on :oops:

Regards,
Del
 
Thanks everyone , looking at the way mine is built I think Rv2max has come up with the probable cause of failure ,until it was suggested I didn’t realize a solinoid was involved. Also Tezza 33 I suspect your Hymer is more modern than mine as I am unable to find any fuse near the w.c.
 
Well I cannot speak generally, but when ours died I pulled out the loo roll container and beneath it was the pump. Rather than pay the silly price that thetford were asking, I got a generic one, but my problem turned out to be the switch, so I bought a cheap bell push which not only did the job, but also lit up the loo
If the pump works when you push the button it may be the solenoid that’s opens to let the water to the bowl.
 
Thanks everyone for your replies I will try bridging the wires if I can find where they run ,however Hymer wiring is a law unto itself.And yes filling the cassette with flushing water is not ideal but has worked for us so will try to restore.
Be aware that when we had a problem with ours the wiring was reversed ie blue was live and brown was negative.
 
If the pump works when you push the button it may be the solenoid that’s opens to let the water to the bowl.
Those solenoids are about £40 or more from Thetford, but the same thing is less than £2.50 from China, if you can wait for the slow boat to arrive. At the time, I thought it would be rubbish at that price, so I bought two, so as to have a spare. Three years later, the spare is still a spare.
 
Be aware that when we had a problem with ours the wiring was reversed ie blue was live and brown was negative.
My Hymer is consistently wired Blue Positive, Brown Negative. Well, almost consistently: when I first added bits I did them the "correct" way round. In retrospect, that was a mistake. I just hadn't noticed the Hymer idiosyncrasy.
Every wire is also labelled: there is writing on every single cable, saying which model of Hymer it is for, and what it powers.
 

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