Truma Trumatic C 6002 EH gas heater problems

[moonshadow]

We thought we'd just check the heating before going north to Goosnargh .... the heating isn't working on gas the little red light comes on which suggests that the gas supply is a problem. The hob and fridge are working fine on gas. The electric heating is only working half heartedly, possibly because it isn't very cold at the moment although we did set thermostat at max. Our gas boiler man reckons it's the flame in the boiler is not lighting properly. Any ideas of how to fix this please? We don't want to go to Goosnargh with out heating!!

 

[moonshadow]

Please, can anyone help?

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Bump

 

[Deleted member 2395]

Hi. Does it show an error code on the truma panel.

 

[RoaminRog]

Is your battery fully charged? Truma heating won’t fire up if your voltage is less than 12.6v.

 

[Deleted member 2395]

A similar thing happened to us. The error code was E517H. And we cured it as shown on the YouTube link here

 

[moonshadow]

There’s no error code just a red light on the dial

 

[Moocher]

Has the outside cover been taken off? It won’t work if it’s in position.

 

[moonshadow]

Has the outside cover been taken off? It won’t work if it’s in position.

It doesn't have one, thanks anyway.

 

[Vanity]

The Truma 6002 has a fan assisted burner, which obviously gets hot! So the lube in the fan bearings dries out. If the fan isn't running fast enough, a sensor will stop the burner lighting and you get the red light.
You can normally tell by listening carefully. When you switch on the heating, you should hear the burner fan start. This runs for a few seconds to clear out the burner. Then there is a click as the gas valve opens.
If the click is a double click, the valve has immediately closed and the red light comes on.
It's a very simple fix. I can let you have the procedure if you want to try

 

[Wrighpm]

The Truma 6002 has a fan assisted burner, which obviously gets hot! So the lube in the fan bearings dries out. If the fan isn't running fast enough, a sensor will stop the burner lighting and you get the red light.
You can normally tell by listening carefully. When you switch on the heating, you should hear the burner fan start. This runs for a few seconds to clear out the burner. Then there is a click as the gas valve opens.
If the click is a double click, the valve has immediately closed and the red light comes on.
It's a very simple fix. I can let you have the procedure if you want to try

I am having the exact problem as original post. I fixed mine by firing it up with the gas isolator closed. This went through a purge/start up cycle and did not light. I then turned the boiler off, switched gas isolator back on, switched boiler to HW and heating (60) and it stayed on. ! This must have cleared something in the gas supply side I assume. This was after 2 hrs faffing and constant red lockouts.

It seems that lock-outs can occur for a variety of reasons (many stated in the post previously). In additrion to voltage/gas supply etc. also note that the blades of the small 3 " diameter fan that cools the PCB need to be kept clean as if it spins slowly it is detected and a lock-out (red light) can occur.
Also - finally - if your boiler has an electrical heating element then the physical overheat trip may have operated - this is accessed via a small peephole and can be re-set by inserting a 3 inch long probe and pressing gently.
However I would be very interested in the procedure you state above Vanity, please share. Thank you.
It would be great if Moonshadow could share the final fix too.

 

[Vanity]

I'll take some proper photos and send tomorrow

 

[alwaysared]

We thought we'd just check the heating before going north to Goosnargh .... the heating isn't working on gas the little red light comes on which suggests that the gas supply is a problem. The hob and fridge are working fine on gas. The electric heating is only working half heartedly, possibly because it isn't very cold at the moment although we did set thermostat at max. Our gas boiler man reckons it's the flame in the boiler is not lighting properly. Any ideas of how to fix this please? We don't want to go to Goosnargh with out heating!!

@moonshadow for your information if the red light is solid it's a gas supply problem and if it flashes it's a low voltage/battery problem. These heaters are great when they work but a pain in the backside to troubleshoot, even the dealers struggle



Regards,
Del

 

[Vanity]

Red light - as it says "Airflow interrupted".
This is the burner fan issue that I described.

Common issue shown to me by a Truma technician

 

[moonshadow]

@moonshadow for your information if the red light is solid it's a gas supply problem and if it flashes it's a low voltage/battery problem. These heaters are great when they work but a pain in the backside to troubleshoot, even the dealers struggle

View attachment 64962

Regards,
Del

That looks very familiar! It's still at the menders they are saying it is the gas regulator and waiting for a part. Doesn't explain why it doesn't work on electric?!? Certainly wouldn't have had the van back in time for Goosnargh

 

[Scotia]

I am having the exact problem as original post. I fixed mine by firing it up with the gas isolator closed. This went through a purge/start up cycle and did not light. I then turned the boiler off, switched gas isolator back on, switched boiler to HW and heating (60) and it stayed on. ! This must have cleared something in the gas supply side I assume. This was after 2 hrs faffing and constant red lockouts.

It seems that lock-outs can occur for a variety of reasons (many stated in the post previously). In additrion to voltage/gas supply etc. also note that the blades of the small 3 " diameter fan that cools the PCB need to be kept clean as if it spins slowly it is detected and a lock-out (red light) can occur.
Also - finally - if your boiler has an electrical heating element then the physical overheat trip may have operated - this is accessed via a small peephole and can be re-set by inserting a 3 inch long probe and pressing gently.
However I would be very interested in the procedure you state above Vanity, please share. Thank you.
It would be great if Moonshadow could share the final fix too.

Truma fault code 632 is stating that the over temperature water switch has triggered. On the boiler you need to push with the flat end of a pen into the hole shown on the photo below. There is a small button inside.
Then you need to press and hold the small brown reset button on the pcb (just near to the red flashing led) until the orange light flashes, release it and you will hear some clicks on the pcb. This should clear the fault code.

 

[Vanity]

I am having the exact problem as original post. I fixed mine by firing it up with the gas isolator closed. This went through a purge/start up cycle and did not light. I then turned the boiler off, switched gas isolator back on, switched boiler to HW and heating (60) and it stayed on. ! This must have cleared something in the gas supply side I assume. This was after 2 hrs faffing and constant red lockouts.

It seems that lock-outs can occur for a variety of reasons (many stated in the post previously). In additrion to voltage/gas supply etc. also note that the blades of the small 3 " diameter fan that cools the PCB need to be kept clean as if it spins slowly it is detected and a lock-out (red light) can occur.
Also - finally - if your boiler has an electrical heating element then the physical overheat trip may have operated - this is accessed via a small peephole and can be re-set by inserting a 3 inch long probe and pressing gently.
However I would be very interested in the procedure you state above Vanity, please share. Thank you.
It would be great if Moonshadow could share the final fix too.

Here's how to check/oil the burner fan in a 6002.
According to the Truma tech who fixed mine, it is a common fault as the assembly is hot and the oil in the bearings dries out.
I have now done it 3 times in 5 years (lots of use!)
Symptoms - after switch on, runs for 20 secs. There's a click as the gas valve opens followed immediately by another click and the red light.

The burner assist fan is as shown.


1. Remove the cable from the fan


2. Remove 6 small torx screws around assembly. There are also two which hold the fan cover.



3. Carefully remove fan assembly. There is a sensor at the far end - be gentle.


4. With the unit out, remove the fan motor cover. You can't remove the fan blades but if you are feeling confident, remove the motor mounting screws which will allow the motor rotor to be removed and give easy access to the bearing.
A LITTLE light oil on each bearing. NOT WD40 or similar!!

5. Check fan spins nice and freely and reassemble in the reverse order.

Any questions, please ask

 

[Wrighpm]

Here's how to check/oil the burner fan in a 6002.
According to the Truma tech who fixed mine, it is a common fault as the assembly is hot and the oil in the bearings dries out.
I have now done it 3 times in 5 years (lots of use!)
Symptoms - after switch on, runs for 20 secs. There's a click as the gas valve opens followed immediately by another click and the red light.

The burner assist fan is as shown.
View attachment 64966

1. Remove the cable from the fan
View attachment 64967

2. Remove 6 small torx screws around assembly. There are also two which hold the fan cover.

View attachment 64968

3. Carefully remove fan assembly. There is a sensor at the far end - be gentle.
View attachment 64969

4. With the unit out, remove the fan motor cover. You can't remove the fan blades but if you are feeling confident, remove the motor mounting screws which will allow the motor rotor to be removed and give easy access to the bearing.
A LITTLE light oil on each bearing. NOT WD40 or similar!!

5. Check fan spins nice and freely and reassemble in the reverse order.

Any questions, please ask

Thank you for the super detailed information. I think I may have confused you/myself I do not have a 6002 but a Combi 4. The symptoms are very similar though with regards red light coming on after 20 seconds so although a different combustion assist fan it maybe it has same issue with running slow due to dry bearings. many thanks for the work put into the reply above I am sure many will benefit from this.

 

[Wrighpm]

Update: I cleaned the blades of the PCB cooling fan on the Truma Combi 4 - coated in a fine crud/dust. This allowed the fan to spin more freely and NO RED LIGHT - so maybe same kind of effect as lubing bearings - faster fan equals fix.

 

[Scotia]

Update: I cleaned the blades of the PCB cooling fan on the Truma Combi 4 - coated in a fine crud/dust. This allowed the fan to spin more freely and NO RED LIGHT - so maybe same kind of effect as lubing bearings - faster fan equals fix.

Did you not re-lub seeing you were in there?