3 way fridge.

AlyJay

AlyJay

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2007 Thetford fridge -
It works really well on gas and when hooked up to 240v but the 12V doesnt really seem to do much.
I'm guessing the 12V is just to try and keep fridge chilled during transit but is it really effective or am expecting to much?
Cheers Alistair.
 
If you put the fridge on mains power for a couple of hours before trip the 12 volt should maintain the temp. while traveling,at least that is what mine does. A lot of people complain that 3 way fridges are not very efficient but living in Portugal with very high temperatures I find mine excellent even keeping ice cubes in freezer compartment .
 
Topmast said:
If you put the fridge on mains power for a couple of hours before trip the 12 volt should maintain the temp. while traveling,at least that is what mine does. A lot of people complain that 3 way fridges are not very efficient but living in Portugal with very high temperatures I find mine excellent even keeping ice cubes in freezer compartment .
Click to expand...
I do that and also put in frozen food to keep fridge cooler, however it all thaws kind of and I get water on bottom of fridge when in transit on 12V so I guess my 12V element might be requiring replaced?
Do these elements wear out as it is an 18yr old fridge?
I quite keen to replace it if it doesnt work as it should compared to other people experiences with 12V side.
Cheers Alistair.
 
You do know that the 12v side doesn't work at all unless you've got the engine running?
Because fridges take quite a lot of current on 12v it's not unusual to see the fridge fuse blown, or spade connectors often around the fuse melted and the relay supplying the fridge in the PDU knackered.
You really need to ascertain the current flowing in the circuit so a DC clamp meter is pretty much essential. Without one you're working half blind.
 
AlyJay said:
2007 Thetford fridge -
It works really well on gas and when hooked up to 240v but the 12V doesnt really seem to do much.
I'm guessing the 12V is just to try and keep fridge chilled during transit but is it really effective or am expecting to much?
Cheers Alistair.
Click to expand...
Mine is probably a couple of years younger and works well on 12V (when the engine is running). I normally set it to maximum (5/5) when set to 12V and then to 3/5 for gas when stationary. Connected to 230V once in a blue moon. I do occasionally have issues with gas not reigniting as required when stationary and have to reboot the fridge. Need to investigate, but it appears to coincide with start of season and with gas bottle getting low (but working OK for hob, oven/grill).
 
merl said:
You do know that the 12v side doesn't work at all unless you've got the engine running?
Because fridges take quite a lot of current on 12v it's not unusual to see the fridge fuse blown, or spade connectors often around the fuse melted and the relay supplying the fridge in the PDU knackered.
You really need to ascertain the current flowing in the circuit so a DC clamp meter is pretty much essential. Without one you're working half blind.
Click to expand...
Yeah hence why I said in transit. 🤣
 
TJBi said:
Mine is probably a couple of years younger and works well on 12V (when the engine is running). I normally set it to maximum (5/5) when set to 12V and then to 3/5 for gas when stationary. Connected to 230V once in a blue moon. I do occasionally have issues with gas not reigniting as required when stationary and have to reboot the fridge. Need to investigate, but it appears to coincide with start of season and with gas bottle getting low (but working OK for hob, oven/grill).
Click to expand...
Sometimes I have reboot mine for the gas as it wont light and just stop feeding the gas if I dont. Theres an auto mode which will cross from 12V to 240V and back, but when it trys to switch to gas is just flashes the blue light to state theres a fault.
 
AlyJay said:
Yeah hence why I said in transit. 🤣
Click to expand...
Yeh but it's easier for me to ask questions and let you reply,😉.
Obviously I don't know the stats of your fridge but the 12v element in my 3 way is basically the same as my 240 at around 100W.
Like I said you really need a DC clamp meter and check the current.
 
merl said:
Yeh but it's easier for me to ask questions and let you reply,😉.
Obviously I don't know the stats of your fridge but the 12v element in my 3 way is basically the same as my 240 at around 100W.
Like I said you really need a DC clamp meter and check the current.
Click to expand...
I'll need to invest in a DC clamp then once I look up what one is 🤔. Thanks for advice.
 
AlyJay said:
2007 Thetford fridge -
It works really well on gas and when hooked up to 240v but the 12V doesnt really seem to do much.
I'm guessing the 12V is just to try and keep fridge chilled during transit but is it really effective or am expecting to much?
Cheers Alistair.
Click to expand...
Your 2007 Thetford is likely the same power setup as the Thetford fitted in my 2007 Model Year Motorhome?

Took this photo of the electric circuits ...

Thetford 3-Way Electric Power
The 12V element is 3/4 of the power of the AC element, which will make a noticable difference.
 
AlyJay said:
Isn't a compressor fridge 240V only?
Click to expand...
230V kitchen fridges are not really designed for running with the bumps and bangs of a moving vehicle, they are usually slightly noisier, slightly more power hungry and don’t have the nighttime noise and power saving modes. However they are cheaper and some people are happy with using them in their motorhomes with an inverter. I have a 12V Thetford compressor fridge and think it is brilliant and have no wish to go back to a 3 way fridge.
 
Okta said:
230V kitchen fridges are not really designed for running with the bumps and bangs of a moving vehicle, they are usually slightly noisier, slightly more power hungry and don’t have the nighttime noise and power saving modes. However they are cheaper and some people are happy with using them in their motorhomes with an inverter. I have a 12V Thetford compressor fridge and think it is brilliant and have no wish to go back to a 3 way fridge.
Click to expand...
The 240V compressor fridges I have had in my vans have been so quiet that to start with I used to open the door to check they still had power. No need to have night time noise reduction when there is no noise to reduce ;)
 
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