Ctek charging of leisure batteries.

[wildebus]

Not familiar with the van layout so can't comment on the cable routing but ... I wouldn't bother running both a +ve and -ve from the battery to the charger (If I read #2 right). Just the +ve and use a good fat chassis point for the -ve

 

[Trotter]

That's what I was thinking. Fiat use the chassis for an Earth. They seem to know what they are doing.
+VE = red/live. Yes?
I've found a video, newer than mine, but the layout is the same. You wouldn't believe the problems I had trying to find a RHD.

Thanks Dave.

 

[wildebus]

This comment should be taken with the fact that I have never done any work on that chasis design or layout, but it looks to me after watching that video is the best route is under the van and coming up where the battery box is. Yes, drilling a hole underneath probably (although lots of vehicles have pre-drilled holes that are bunged thsat you could use) but liberal application of suitable primer and paint shoud keep the rust at bay.

 

[Trotter]

Thanks again Dave.
Your disclaimer was totally unnecessary, I accept your suggestions as just that, suggestions. When I work on advice I take full responsibility for my own actions. I will consider all and any advice. And then go my own way. Using that advice as given or modified to suit.

I'll certainly have a look underneath the body as you said, looking for bungs. But drilling holes in the underbody, not sure at all.
I've looked again at the doorway and I reckon I could run one +ve (red?) cable under the entry kickboard, suspended by P clamps. Then chased behind the furniture and fridge into the battery box. This is on the N/S under the bedhead. Directly behind is the N/S rear door pillar, an ideal place for the earth/return/neg. Again using the same gauge cable as the v+/ red/live.. We'll sort something out.

 

[nabsim]

This may be a stupid suggestion as back at work and head spinning with work related stuff but...

There is already a cable running to the EBL that comes from the alternator or split charge relay whatever, is it not possible to route this cable in to the Ctek?

 

[Trotter]

Neil, give yourself a couple of days to get back into the swing. Your not as young as you were. Remember, this time you've had off, was a preretirement training exercise.

The cable I saw at the starter battery end is a feeble thing about 3mm or 4mm diameter , c/w 15amp fuse. Seriously not man enough..Nothing like the welding cable required. Although we, ( Did you notice that, we ) could follow it's route, for the new mighty one

Going back to this wire c/w fuse. It's the one Dave told me to look for. It's white. I cannot find any reference to a white live on the wiring diagram, and I'm pretty sure there's no white coming into the battery box. I will check again before the weekend. lets hope someone brighter than us can work their magic over this, and sort it out. Me? I'm going round in circles. Yes I want Ctek. No, all I want is to charge the batteries. All I want is to find out why it worked, now it don't. Then back to, I want Ctek.
It's giving me a headache.
And now this B laptop is playing silly b's. I'll drop you a PM, cheers Bro

 

[Trotter]

Trek, you've given me a "well done" on post #24. Thanks for that. But well done what? Not being pedantic, honest. Was it for saying Dave needn't put a disclaimer, not wanting to drill holes, routing the cables behind furniture or trying to confirm that the rear door pillar would be a good place for the neg cable to go.
This whole thing is causing me so much grief. All basically down to the fact I don't understand eletrickery.

I s'pose it could be "well done" all four.

 

[Trek]

Hi Trotter

Aah there is a chance that it i did that when swipping up or down on the tablet screen

I think I have done a couple of these , those that I notice i undo when it is out of place

I can leave as is or remove it But i am sure your worth it and hell a pat on the back now and then is a good thing

 

[Admin]

If you are running the cable under the van then it will need some protection. Also, you can normally add a Maxi fuse to the positive terminal of the battery to take your cable from, you just need a couple of short nuts and bolts and the fuse.

 

[Trotter]

Hi Trotter

Aah there is a chance that it i did that when swipping up or down on the tablet screen

I think I have done a couple of these , those that I notice i undo when it is out of place

I can leave as is or remove it But i am sure your worth it and hell a pat on the back now and then is a good thing

Cos I'm worth it

 

[Trotter]

If you are running the cable under the van then it will need some protection. Also, you can normally add a Maxi fuse to the positive terminal of the battery to take your cable from, you just need a couple of short nuts and bolts and the fuse.

Yup.The thought of drilling into the chassis worries me to death.
Mega fuses. I know the "live line" needs a fuse as close to the starter battery as possible. The idea of the Mega fuse was to create a right angle turn.
If there's an easier/better way to do this, don't keep it to yourself.
I know there's a professional way of doing stuff and an easier way of doing stuff. I'll opt for easier. If it'safe. 'Tis my van. if it has no resale value when I'm finished with it, then so be it. I'll be dead anyway. lol

 

[nabsim]

Del you aren't going to have big heavy cables running in there to leisure batteries I doubt, they will have used thin wall cable so they will look a lot lighter duty than welding cable especially if they are looking at 20 amps. If you check this link you will see a 25amp cable.

Not saying you don't want to run heavy cable this is to explain why you may not see it from manufacturer

Linky Linky Clicky Clicky

Also looking at the manual for your EBL it says the split charger relay is internal to the EBL. Am I reading that right or do you have another split charger?

 

[Deleted member 318]

Ahh this may have assisted me in a similar issue
I have in another post tried to get the solution Set up - 2x120W solar panels in parallel, a capable 20A Voltronic Controller into a 95Ah battery under drivers seat which in turn is linked in parallel to another identical battery under a side facing seat behind passenger seat
Issue?
Vehicle status board shows (Consistently) Starter 100% (3 green LEDs) Cool but
Leisure batteries (Or is this only showing the battery status under my seat) at 66% or 2 LEDs
You see when I bought it it only had 1 solar panel & 1 leisure (Under my seat)
So I added both recently but when driving both are 100%

I am now thinking that the way the wires from solar controller directly to battery under my seat & from there are connected in parallel to other battery under side seat could be the issue?
ie should the power wires from controller have a) one terminal on 1st battery only (Under my seat with say positive)
b) The other power wire be connect to the side facing battery (with negative)

Here is a crude paint pic of current setup
Any replies greatly appreciated

 

[Trotter]

Del you aren't going to have big heavy cables running in there to leisure batteries I doubt, they will have used thin wall cable so they will look a lot lighter duty than welding cable especially if they are looking at 20 amps. If you check this link you will see a 25amp cable.

Not saying you don't want to run heavy cable this is to explain why you may not see it from manufacturer

Linky Linky Clicky Clicky

Also looking at the manual for your EBL it says the split charger relay is internal to the EBL. Am I reading that right or do you have another split charger?

Looking at the size of cables in the SimplySplitCharge Ad, and of those that Debs has used, They are way bigger,chunkier, than those on your link. Something about "voltage drop"
BTW. Chunkier is a technical term.
Just used the voltage drop calculator on that site, and to stay within their recommended 3-4% voltage drop over 6mts, I'll need 16mm
Over a 5mtr run I might get away with 10mm that = 3.58%
The 2mm cable over 6 mts is 21%.
That's where all our leccy is going. Dribbleing out all over the floor. Best of luck with just a dustpan and brush

 

[nabsim]

I posted the link as an idea on what the manufacturers may have fitted Del, not what you should use when changing/adding. The original cables may physically look a lot smaller than you expect to see. Debs has added her installation so would have beefed up on cable sizes to ensure everything was good

Plus dont forget Debs setup with the Smartpass will go up to 120amps where what you have fitted is probably 20amps or less

 

[Okta]

If you check this link you will see a 25amp cable.

I would suggest something a bit bigger for 25amps unless it is for a very short distance. By 1.5 metres the voltage drop is over 5% and the maximum recommended is 3-4%. Try this link (again to 12vPlanet) which gives advice about cable sizing and includes a very helpful voltage drop calculator. In my amateur opinion it is better to oversize rather than undersize cables, particularly when the purpose of the exercise is to improve charging.
https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/cable-sizing-selection.html

 

[wildebus]

I wouldn't tend to make this suggestion for most installations, but ....

If the intention is to fit a CTEK D250Dual with the possibility of adding in a SmartPass, which could take the current pull to 100A AND the distance being talked about is 6 Metres plus, then I would minded to buy and install THIS cable from Amazon -
Welding Cable / Battery Earth 230 Amp 25 mm Black Flexible Per Meter Mig Tig Arc Welder
It is £2.25 per metre, which is superb value for this gauge cable, and is also very flexible and workable. Highly Recommended . I used this for all my Battery Interconnects and about to buy some more to upgrade my own big inverter cables to and to also supply with my remote control Inverter kits
PS. The fact is is black is irrelevant (some folk get caught up on having to buy red cable for +ve) - but remember to put the occasional wrap of red tape around it as a reminder.

 

[debs]

The cable I used is 16mm" and the cable run from engine battery to C-Tek is just under 1.5 metres, on the positive lead I put fuses at each end. I bought the cable from a local Auto electrician and he checked it over for me and was very happy the way I had installed it, including extra inulation where the cable has a short run along the top of the chassis rail.

 

[Trotter]

Dave, thanks for the link to the 16mm cable. I’ll check what else I need to put the Ctek in. There maybe other hardware required. Think using this cable I could save a fair amount of money over the kit I was looking at.

 

[wildebus]

Dave, thanks for the link to the 16mm cable. I’ll check what else I need to put the Ctek in. There maybe other hardware required. Think using this cable I could save a fair amount of money over the kit I was looking at.

if you need the fuseholders and fuses, conduit (if running cable under the van), 25mm ring connectors, etc, let me know - I have all that stuff, so the only bit missing would be the B2B itself.