Diesel additives

Pudsey Bear said:
Spinters are funny animals, after a fast run let it idle for a minute or so to bring down the turbo temp, does the engine good too.
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You know it could well be that, its something I knew should be done but after having a new diesel car that said not to do it I had forgotten all about it. Will give it a bask and see how it goes:)
 
Had an auto electrician fix an airbag wiring problem.
He diagnosed a failed sensor/ switch problem , on the accelerator, causing the stalling effect.
We'll see what it's like after it's replaced.
 
Hi All
First post and drawn into it because this thread is on a subject I do know something about - declaring interest here: I'm a Regional Manager for BG GB in Wales. Just Google BG Products and you should find predominately good reports.
There are few 'additives' that will improve a new engine, there are cetane improvers which may or may not improve apparent performance while in the tank, but then who wants to spend more on every tankful. The fact is that burning diesel, petrol, kerosene or chip oil produces carbon/soot. Carbon deposits accrue throughout the system in and around injectors, on valves, in the combustion chamber, on piston rings, on O2 (Lambda) sensors in the exhaust, catalytic converters, DPF pressure sensors and in the DPF. Ultimately this is not good.
As the engine loses performance due to these deposits the ECU (computerised engine control) compensates for lost power by injecting more fuel - so you might not notice the power loss initially, other than in your wallet. As the piston rings get clogged with carbon, they provide a less effective seal causing loss of compression and the passage of gases from the crankcase into the combustion chamber and pressurisation of the crankcase that blows oil vapours through air intake and again into the combustion chamber. Oil heavy exhaust gases pass through the EGR (which also suffers consequently) and on into the combustion chamber to worsen deposits further.
Most of whatever carbon and undesirables are not left in and around the engine may be caught by the DPF – that’s its’ job. The DPF pressure sensors detect this build up and cause the ECU to start the regeneration process by injecting yet more fuel to raise the temperature of the DPF to burn the accrued carbon away. This usually requires a period of driving at around 50 mph for half an hour so, as you might realise, the regeneration is not always completed.
You can reduce and disperse the amount of carbon deposited with high quality fuel system cleaners. In addition, a high quality engine oil flush, used when changing the oil, will clean the piston rings - as well as clearing those all-important oilways, not least the oil feed to the turbo charger, a primary cause of bearing failure and blown turbo – to recover compression.
Lower quality cleaners may, temporarily, remove soft carbon deposits, and be enough to get you through a MOT, or not. Quality cleaners will additionally remove the longer term baked on deposits bringing the engine nearer to new condition and efficiency.
Additives are also available to help a tankful of fuel (and the fuel system) survive the winter – whilst I’m sure Motorhomer members never say die and venture out in challenging seasons, any vehicle left unused for extended periods can suffer - as temperatures drop diesel becomes waxy and clogs filters, half full fuel tanks provide a breeding ground for bacteria, some additives can help combat the waxing and the bacteria that causes the ‘bug’ referred to above.
Sorry, I could go on and on, best left to: any questions?
 
Nice informative post but after a look at BG Products (only a quick look as supposed to be loading up ready for off) I am not sure exactly what BG do. I will have a look this evening when I have more time but in case you see this and in case I check online when we stop for the dogs, do you do diesel additives?

Good first post and welcome to the forum :)
 
nabsim said:
Nice informative post but after a look at BG Products (only a quick look as supposed to be loading up ready for off) I am not sure exactly what BG do. I will have a look this evening when I have more time but in case you see this and in case I check online when we stop for the dogs, do you do diesel additives?

Good first post and welcome to the forum :)
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For sure we do, if you find bandwith on your trip this video might be of interest:
 
I can remember when years ago truck drivers used to pee into their tanks, it seems that things have now gone full circle and that they now have an additive at the pumps which is basically factory manufactured wee. I'm not troubled by these catholic converters, I've not got one, so the odd shot of RedX when Tesco has it on special offer goes in, and even though they now have stuff in derv to stop it gelling in the really cold weather, I still stick a pint of petrol into a full refill
 
Never bother. Always use premium fuel (which costs more but gives better mpg in tests) and give it a good thrashing now and then. It’s a diesel you won’t break it.
 
Last year my dashboard lit up like a christmas tree, put the expensive Redex in before traveling to a meet in Cheshire. Parked up for the weekend and Monday when I started the engine....no lights, and I no longer get fuel from Tesco!
 
Flostravels said:
I am curious that BG Products have over 20 diesel fuel additives to choose from....
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It's a reflection of the number of problems diesel can cause, a few have been mentioned already - e.g. carbon build up in the engine, dpf, egr, waxing/gelling, bacteria causing 'diesel bug'. Primarily most can be avoided by using BG245 regularly, this cleans all through the fuel system and survives combustion to clean through the exhaust, cat, sensors, dpf. It should be used every 12k miles to keep things clean and happy, added to 60 litres of fuel it will gently remove the carbon. Obviously, not all vehicles have had the benefit of this, so sometimes we might need to apply some of our other solutions. For example: BG248 would be good to add before a winter lay up or a full system clean up to correct and avoid further dpf blockage. BG Products have been in business since 1972 are worldwide and the highest volume provider of such products in the US (16% market share against 4% for the nearest rival).
 
petelmrg said:
Never bother. Always use premium fuel (which costs more but gives better mpg in tests) and give it a good thrashing now and then. It’s a diesel you won’t break it.
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Glad to hear it petelmrg!
There are broadly two strains of fuel system cleaner: those that use a polyether amine (PEA) and those that use polybutyl ammine (PBA). According to the Worldwide Fuel Charter a study sponsored by all the major engine manufacturers, PBA can actually make the problem worse, leaving its own deposits to compound the problems of carbon. Shell and BP use PEA in their premium fuels and these do a good job, as does BG Products. A significant proportion of other additive companies use PBA - why? because it's cheaper. So it's simply a question of the number of miles you do and the nature of your journeys to work out if it would be cheaper/more effective to use premium fuel or a can of BG every 12k miles.
 
The laird said:
Forte products are great tried n tested
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Have just received the 3 pack, don't plan to use it until we see how the replacement throttle switch works. I'll certainly give it a go, when we leave Portugal, next spring.
We've been parked up since returning from Henley. Going stir crazy... And there's not enough sunshine to top my batteries.
Hope it comes tomorrow..
 
This is a big topic on my RAV4 forum and many who are far more knowledgable than I am when it comes to engines (it doesn't take much to be so) say NEVER use any supermarket fuel in diesel engines as the first rule; add the BG244 (I think it is 244?) if getting a new (to them) car that may have been run supermarket fuel (also referred to as Weasel Pee) to give the injectors and stuff a bit of a clean out. Many of them run solely on the Premium Diesel as well.
I find the premium stuff a bit too pricey but do stick to Shell or Costco fuel, and failing that other branded fuels such as Esso and never the Weasel Pee unless I am really stuck and would run out otherwise.

There is a product I used to use in my 1.9TD VW T4 - Diesel Rhino (https://amzn.to/2T1YBJJ). TBH I am not that sensitive to subtle changes in Engine notes and performance but I think it did make a difference and many folk on the VW Forum reported great results with it (It was introduced on that forum by the developer, who is an active member there). I keep meaning to try in on my 2.8L TDi VW as still got lots left (use 1mL per Litre of fuel so it goes a long way). If you wanted to give this a go, let me know and I should be able to get you a discount code.
 
You can also use the occasional fill of Supreme, Ultimate or other top grade Shell, Esso or BP. The reason that they are more expensive is because of the quality of the additives. I use about one fill in five.
 
nabsim said:
Well in my case I was thinking of just keeping everything running cleanly between services which 'should' aid fuel economy. I don't think I have a dpf in mine (base vehicle is pre 2006 Sprinter) but keeping EGR clean is good.

It gets regular runs, over 500 miles last week but thats more than normal, and gets motorway running most weeks but if I have to shut engine off then restart before it cools down it can take two or three attempts.
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If it starts ok when cold but struggles when warm it points to the cam shaft sensor
Richard
 
Glass man said:
You can also use the occasional fill of Supreme, Ultimate or other top grade Shell, Esso or BP. The reason that they are more expensive is because of the quality of the additives. I use about one fill in five.
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I like this Idea
I have so far always bought "standard diesel" as the extra MPG seemed not to be wirthwhile.
But the other advantages seem good.
In the summer whilst travelling (5 months) we fill up about once a week.
Seems a good plan
To fill up the first time with a premium fuel. and then maybe every 6 weeks or once a month or every 2 months
A recommendation on this would be appreciated...
I remember years a go Redex shots and STP
I have never been in favour of additives
(for no known reason except that in most situations "Plain vanilla" does the job)
 
wildebus said:
This is a big topic on my RAV4 forum and many who are far more knowledgable than I am when it comes to engines (it doesn't take much to be so) say NEVER use any supermarket fuel in diesel engines as the first rule; add the BG244 (I think it is 244?) if getting a new (to them) car that may have been run supermarket fuel (also referred to as Weasel Pee) to give the injectors and stuff a bit of a clean out. Many of them run solely on the Premium Diesel as well.
I find the premium stuff a bit too pricey but do stick to Shell or Costco fuel, and failing that other branded fuels such as Esso and never the Weasel Pee unless I am really stuck and would run out otherwise.

There is a product I used to use in my 1.9TD VW T4 - Diesel Rhino (https://amzn.to/2T1YBJJ). TBH I am not that sensitive to subtle changes in Engine notes and performance but I think it did make a difference and many folk on the VW Forum reported great results with it (It was introduced on that forum by the developer, who is an active member there). I keep meaning to try in on my 2.8L TDi VW as still got lots left (use 1mL per Litre of fuel so it goes a long way). If you wanted to give this a go, let me know and I should be able to get you a discount code.
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It would be interesting to know why “Never”. I have two Passat diesels and covered in excess of 200,000 miles predominantly on supermarket fuels without a fuel problem, have I just been lucky?
 
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