Engine Mapping

Dino

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Hi folks. I’m thinking of getting my multijet 2.3 180 BHP re mapped. Any advice. Good or bad. Any recommendations for central Scotland vendors? TIA.
 
Why are you wanting to remap a180 normally has enough grunt in it
remember upping the output also adds strain on flywheel clutch and shafts just my opinion
think skids in Falkirk do it or they will recommend a tuner
 
Crumbs! I had my 130 remapped to 160 and thought (still think) it was a terrific use of horsepower. To go from 180 to ?where? seems a bit more than I’d expect. Where does the 180 come from already, a variable vane turbo I suppose. Does it need more power ( and there’s me asking, who had a 330bhp motorbike on the road, with up to 525 when on race fuel) I am running weight of around 3600, with a plate of 4100kg. Just curious really.
 
I have had many vehicles re mapped with great results, except the last one I had done on a previous Berlingo van by someone local that was recommended to me,
But this turned out a disaster and after him having 9 or 10 attempts to put it right and couldn’t I sold the van to someone who was willing to take it as it was first attempt it had plenty power but would kick out a lot of black smoke on acceleration, by the time he had done f#ckin it up it had less power and bad black smoke,
So I have been a bit put off having any done again.
Just do your homework first and find someone that has a good reputation
 
Mine was remapped to give a lot more power. Really good, but after a few years it started putting out puffs of black smoke under hard acceleration.
Then a year or two later, the engine started cutting out after long deceleration (such as when turning off motorways).
Eventually I traced the fault to a bad connection in a data cable between ECUs. Unplugged, cleaned, sprayed with "stuff" and reconnected. All fine now.
The point is that every change you make is More To Go Wrong.
 
I'm afraid I can't help with sources close to you but will join in query as to why?
Are you confident that the gearbox will take the extra torque?
I found out the hard way with my 2.8 JTD and stripped the dog teeth on 5th gear - twice!
First time I managed to get vendor to pay but after second less than a year later but out of 6 month commercial warranty I dropped the top gear ratio and no longer use full throttle at 2500 rpm in top.
Hindsight shows that when Fiat bumped the JTD power up to 140bhp they didn't lift the torque as much.
Be careful! 😀
 
in h said:
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The point is that every change you make is More To Go Wrong.
Click to expand...
That's very close to one of my father's pieces of advice. "Whenever something goes wrong, think back to the last thing you changed, because that, or an associated component, may well be the cause."

Over the years, my father's advice has often proved good.
 
SimonM said:
Crumbs! I had my 130 remapped to 160 and thought (still think) it was a terrific use of horsepower. To go from 180 to ?where? seems a bit more than I’d expect. Where does the 180 come from already, a variable vane turbo I suppose. Does it need more power ( and there’s me asking, who had a 330bhp motorbike on the road, with up to 525 when on race fuel) I am running weight of around 3600, with a plate of 4100kg. Just curious really.
Click to expand...
Sometimes enough is never enough🤣👍
 
HurricaneSmith said:
That's very close to one of my father's pieces of advice. "Whenever something goes wrong, think back to the last thing you changed, because that, or an associated component, may well be the cause."

Over the years, my father's advice has often proved good.
Click to expand...
Very much so !
I got an electronic re-mapper in 2014..worked well with 5 to 10% fuel saving
It plugged in using a T connection. (Top of T to and from Engine ECU..bottom of T electronic re-mapper)
Whilst touring MoHo failed to start (1st time ever since 2011).
Breakdown man arrived did all the usual to no avail and had his compurt plugged in !
Engine would turn over OK ..almost as if no spark. He was unsure and I think we were looking at loading it up onto his unit !
I then suggested we remove the re-mapper..Hey presto !
Device binned...I could buy another for £350 plus..no thanks

Of course the other simple thing is loose/broken connections /shorting
 
Markd said:
Are you confident that the gearbox will take the extra torque?
I found out the hard way with my 2.8 JTD and stripped the dog teeth on 5th gear - twice!
Click to expand...
You don't need to boost the engine power to have problems with 5th gear on them. It's a crap bodge design all the time.
However, it is true that boosting the power does put more strain on the drivetrain. But only if you press the pedal!
If you only use the extra performance very sparingly, and mostly drive like you didn't just steal the van, chances are it'll be no more unreliable than normal.
 
Yes I've put in a lower 5th gear - the original was 28mph per 1000rpm which is fine for a car but not a 4T motorhome!
I now get better cruising on A roads where the speed limit is 50mph anyway.
When I stripped the dog teeth I was at 2500 rpm (max torque) and went from half to full throttle which was just too much in a rush.
As renewing 5th gear is technically a 'roadside' job I keep thinking about buying the spare parts and carrying them with me so I could get any garage to fit them.
Not a big deal in this country but if we do go abroad next year (always seems to e next year!) I will do it to avoid the possibility of a very long drive home with only 4 gears.
 
HurricaneSmith said:
That's very close to one of my father's pieces of advice. "Whenever something goes wrong, think back to the last thing you changed, because that, or an associated component, may well be the cause."

Over the years, my father's advice has often proved good.
Click to expand...

And when trying to figure out a fault, never change more than one thing at a time.
 
Markd said:
Yes I've put in a lower 5th gear - the original was 28mph per 1000rpm which is fine for a car
Click to expand...

I know diesel is different, but my escort is only just over 22mph. 152mph @ 6750 rpm.

And yes, i did it once. On a private stretch of the M4 of course....
 
Some of the odern VAG common rail diesels pull nearly 40 mph per 1000rpm.
80 mph cruise at peak torque - fuel consumption to match.
Anyway the Fiat Ducato based are too high geared for their weight which combined with the relatively low torque capacity of the gearbox probably explains the general issues one reads about.
It could well be that the post 2006 boxes are better because Fiat put more powerful engines in themselves.
 
Hi all, I had my be crafter re mapped from about 115bhp to about 150-160 ish,
Ever since after about an hr of driving the coil light starts flashing and it goes into limp mode with a code saying ‘fuel rail Low pressure’.
The guy who did it says it’s not the re map as that would give a high pressure reading, I’ve had a new pressure sensor and fuel regulator which apparently was the cause and it it’s still the same, the next thing is a high pressure fuel pump but at a cost of about £700-800 I’m reluctant to get it fitted on the off chance it may work but might not.
Don’t know what to do for the best
 
Clarkey said:
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Don’t know what to do for the best
Click to expand...
As I wrote: More To Go Wrong.
Was the remap a plug-in unit or a recode of the ECU? If the former, you could maybe try taking it out of circuit to see if that fixes the problem.
If the latter, I'd go back to the remappers and ask for advice.
 
Hi, I think it was an ecu remap, when he first did it he plugged something into the obd and it too about an hour to complete.
I have been back a couple of times and he just keeps saying it won’t be the remap? I’m a bit reluctant to take it back as I’ve no doubt he’ll charge me a fortune for a new fuel pump before he try’s anything else.
 
Ah, yes. You're right. I'd hoped that he might have a way to disable it, but that sounds unlikely. I chose a separate box because of that, but that gave its own issues, as it turned out.
Chances are it is the pump, but at that sort of price, it would maybe make sense to get the pump tested before replacing it.
I'd have though a simple test should cost no more than £100, but that's just my wild guess, not based on any knowledge of the engine.
 
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