Security advice please.

I am looking to improve "drive away" security and night time security. First, has anyone had a hidden kill switch fitted? I have a Peugeot Boxer base. Having read many articles, the kill switch seems to be a cost effective method. It seems most locking clamps are easily removed and are only good to stop the opportunist. Is killing the battery the only method because I assume that also kills the alarm system and door locking? It would seem better to just kill the engine.

I have taken the view with habitation security that it is impossible to stop break-ins. No matter what you do, ripping out a window is easy. I have window and door alarms and a motion alarm. Personal security is what I wish to improve. We use the seat belts to restrain the cab doors but the habitation door is the obvious problem. I rely on the alarms to wake us if a door or window is opened. Does anyone have any other ideas to improve night time security? We mainly wildcamp and always move on if we don't like an area but it would be good to increase peace of mind.
Our van (Transit) was stolen and, apart from changing the door lock , we've fitted a pedal locking box.


I've also fitted one of these in the driveway :- https://www.barriersdirect.co.uk/parking-posts-residential-c1087/telescopic-parking-posts-c1158

And just for show - a steering wheel clamp. "Every little helps"

Cheers Spike
 
Our van (Transit) was stolen and, apart from changing the door lock , we've fitted a pedal locking box.


I've also fitted one of these in the driveway :- https://www.barriersdirect.co.uk/parking-posts-residential-c1087/telescopic-parking-posts-c1158

And just for show - a steering wheel clamp. "Every little helps"

Cheers Spike
Very good to have changed the Tibbe cylinder for something more secure. You might also consider impeding access to the OBD port, which is used to overcome the OEM immobiliser.
 
We use a simple yet effective system like Cronkle. It works well for us, at night and when leaving the van - we simply fit the bar and exit via one of the cab doors.

We've also fitted a webbing loop to each cab door that fits over an extended screw on the frame. They work like a door chain for nighttime peace of mind
 
We use a simple yet effective system like Cronkle. It works well for us, at night and when leaving the van - we simply fit the bar and exit via one of the cab doors.

We've also fitted a webbing loop to each cab door that fits over an extended screw on the frame. They work like a door chain for nighttime peace of mind
That system poses problems with the Transit unless you have something other than the OEM Tibbe lock cylinder for locking/unlocking the cab doors.
 
There should be wires going to the fuel sys,these can be interupted with a remote switch or a fuel cut of solenoid can be fitted somewhere leaving the tank with a remote switch.
 
We use a simple yet effective system like Cronkle. It works well for us, at night and when leaving the van - we simply fit the bar and exit via one of the cab doors.

We've also fitted a webbing loop to each cab door that fits over an extended screw on the frame. They work like a door chain for nighttime peace of mind
What is Cronkle. Can't find anything on it.
 
There should be wires going to the fuel sys,these can be interupted with a remote switch or a fuel cut of solenoid can be fitted somewhere leaving the tank with a remote switch.
I am assuming you are switching the fuel pump. Would it be possible to drive a short distance with no pump or does that effectively immobilize the engine instantly.
A previous poster stated they were advised not to do this by a mechanic but no reason given.
 
Hi as a extra detergent I got of eBay two z small plastic alarms one is a movement sensor the other the alarm. When parked on drive. Sensor in motorhome. Alarm in house. Cost £15.00. Might not stop someone stealing Moho. But will warn you of intruders. Last year I had someone try to steal Moho. They removed the trim beside the steering wheel. Removed the isolator switch which recognises the key and switches on current to diesel pump. By then I had got downstairs and they ran off. Good news. I still had my Moho. Bad news they ran off with the isolator. The police told me. They get a key cut to operate isolator. Remove yours fit there's and away they go. Cost me. £175 to get another isolator and matching key. Hope this makes sense. Normally end up confusing everyone including myself. Brian
 
Thanks for everyones help on this. I have decided from the advice I have received to fit a fuel pump isolator switch. I have located the pump inside the tank. There is a connector as shown in the attached photos. I assume the 2 thin wires are for the fuel gauge and the 2 thick wires are + and - for the pump. Can anyone see anything wrong with cutting either of the thick wires and extending them to a hidden 12V 25A switch? It seems simple enough and the only possible problem I can think of is if I forget to enable the pump and try to start the engine, will the engine management system register a fault and disable the system?

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I have fitted Heosafe locks to the cab doors. No external lock to fiddle with and stops the doors being opened. Much more secure than seat belts wrapped round doors, etc.
Relatively cheap and simple to fit. You operate the locks from the inside, either just turning the lock as it is, or you can lock them with the key.
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I am sure folks think I am joking whenever I post in security threads but I keep an axe to hand. The dogs go mad when anyone come near so always wake me.
 
I am looking to improve "drive away" security and night time security. First, has anyone had a hidden kill switch fitted? I have a Peugeot Boxer base. Having read many articles, the kill switch seems to be a cost effective method. It seems most locking clamps are easily removed and are only good to stop the opportunist. Is killing the battery the only method because I assume that also kills the alarm system and door locking? It would seem better to just kill the engine.

I have taken the view with habitation security that it is impossible to stop break-ins. No matter what you do, ripping out a window is easy. I have window and door alarms and a motion alarm. Personal security is what I wish to improve. We use the seat belts to restrain the cab doors but the habitation door is the obvious problem. I rely on the alarms to wake us if a door or window is opened. Does anyone have any other ideas to improve night time security? We mainly wildcamp and always move on if we don't like an area but it would be good to increase peace of mind.
Our pug 2017 motorhome is standard fitted with a ignition switch with a red ring around the switch when you turn of the engine you can turn 1 click further and after 7 minutes it isolates the running battery doors will be disabled and all engine electrical
 
Thanks for everyones help on this. I have decided from the advice I have received to fit a fuel pump isolator switch.

You may find that the engine will still pull fuel thru even with that pump switched off you could try by just disconnecting it first
 
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mine is an a class when the seats are turned and collapsed and bed down its almost impossible to get in the had door has a D shaped handle and much like the bar system we have a bar through that across the frame also a rather loud dog ,
 
I am looking to improve "drive away" security and night time security. First, has anyone had a hidden kill switch fitted? I have a Peugeot Boxer base. Having read many articles, the kill switch seems to be a cost effective method. It seems most locking clamps are easily removed and are only good to stop the opportunist. Is killing the battery the only method because I assume that also kills the alarm system and door locking? It would seem better to just kill the engine.

I have taken the view with habitation security that it is impossible to stop break-ins. No matter what you do, ripping out a window is easy. I have window and door alarms and a motion alarm. Personal security is what I wish to improve. We use the seat belts to restrain the cab doors but the habitation door is the obvious problem. I rely on the alarms to wake us if a door or window is opened. Does anyone have any other ideas to improve night time security? We mainly wildcamp and always move on if we don't like an area but it would be good to increase peace of mind.
For drive away I use a Clutch Claw it’s easy to use and it was recommended by my insurance Company “Caravan Guard “ I’ve not known an insurer recommend anything before so it must be good. To remove it without the key it certainly would not be easy. Just look for Clutch Claw on the internet, I also use one on my 4x4 Jeep.
 
I am looking to improve "drive away" security and night time security. First, has anyone had a hidden kill switch fitted? I have a Peugeot Boxer base. Having read many articles, the kill switch seems to be a cost effective method. It seems most locking clamps are easily removed and are only good to stop the opportunist. Is killing the battery the only method because I assume that also kills the alarm system and door locking? It would seem better to just kill the engine.[\Quote]

I have taken the view with habitation security that it is impossible to stop break-ins. No matter what you do, ripping out a window is easy. I have window and door alarms and a motion alarm. Personal security is what I wish to improve. We use the seat belts to restrain the cab doors but the habitation door is the obvious problem. I rely on the alarms to wake us if a door or window is opened. Does anyone have any other ideas to improve night time security? We mainly wildcamp and always move on if we don't like an area but it would be good to increase peace of mind.

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