Security advice please.

Disklok is very good and visible ! (or indeed pedalock)

A fuel stop will work but the thieves will have broken in and then when they find they cannot drive away or have only gone a short distance they may resort to vandalism out of spite !

Only stops the vehicle being stolen.
Alarms probably best for breakins/stealing items
Almost impossible to secure windows be they in the hab or cab area

Some thieves will "Borrow" Nabsims AXE or similar.

It seems that a crowbar on the habdoor will also work
THEN very difficult & time consuming to effect a (100%) repair
 
We have a Thitronik system fitted to all external doors, windows and access doors, use a €2 pm sim card for the tracker. We carry a teargas pistol if ever we are disturbed (legal in France, never had to use). We don’t seem to have the same problems over here that plague folks in the UK, almost regret purchase of security devices for trailers etc but all you need is one visit by a toerag to spoil your summer.
 
sydnsue said:
I am assuming you are switching the fuel pump. Would it be possible to drive a short distance with no pump or does that effectively immobilize the engine instantly.
A previous poster stated they were advised not to do this by a mechanic but no reason given.
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Kills a diesel and will not start.
 
sydnsue said:
Thanks for everyones help on this. I have decided from the advice I have received to fit a fuel pump isolator switch. I have located the pump inside the tank. There is a connector as shown in the attached photos. I assume the 2 thin wires are for the fuel gauge and the 2 thick wires are + and - for the pump. Can anyone see anything wrong with cutting either of the thick wires and extending them to a hidden 12V 25A switch? It seems simple enough and the only possible problem I can think of is if I forget to enable the pump and try to start the engine, will the engine management system register a fault and disable the system?

View attachment 55027View attachment 55028
Click to expand...
Fit one of these and you have a key fob which is better.remote switch.png
 
sydnsue said:
Thanks for everyones help on this. I have decided from the advice I have received to fit a fuel pump isolator switch. I have located the pump inside the tank. There is a connector as shown in the attached photos. I assume the 2 thin wires are for the fuel gauge and the 2 thick wires are + and - for the pump. Can anyone see anything wrong with cutting either of the thick wires and extending them to a hidden 12V 25A switch? It seems simple enough and the only possible problem I can think of is if I forget to enable the pump and try to start the engine, will the engine management system register a fault and disable the system?
Click to expand...

I'd be very wary of fitting any sort of isolator switch which could effectively kill the engine when you're barreling down the motorway at 70mph. Thats probably why your mechanic advised against it.

A safer way would be to fit some sort of isolator in the starter motor circuit.

Just my tuppenceworth... :)
 
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I don't think anything will stop entry. I have door and motion alarms. Just trying to find an engine immobiliser. Decided following comments that fuel cut off is not advisable. I shall look into isolating the starter. Thanks for everyone's comments.
 
this is all you need easy to fit under the seat AF292136-4548-48AD-A2AA-FFB96733EF9E.pngif you have an underfloor battery
 
not necessarily you just put it on the starter cable most auxiliaries are taken off at the terminal
 
I would suggest a switch in the wire from the ignition switch to the starter relay. That way you can have it hidden in the cab, a big isolator switch as pictured would probably need to go under the bonnet with all the faffing about that would entail every time you wanted to switch it.
 
walter_neff said:
I would suggest a switch in the wire from the ignition switch to the starter relay. That way you can have it hidden in the cab, a big isolator switch as pictured would probably need to go under the bonnet with all the faffing about that would entail every time you wanted to switch it.
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I'm not even sure how to get into the ignition switch, never mind which wire goes to the relay. Gone are the days of logical electrics. :mad:
 
The problem is with mechanical devices is yes they to offer some level of security, but with the likes of Lidl and Aldi selling battery powered power tools etc, they can be overcome with time. You also have to consider moving the vehicle in the event of an emergency.

Wireless technology can also be subject to code blockers and jamming equipment, hence we do not use wireless on any of our security products (also it isn't Thatcham approved which is another reason why we don't support it).
With Tracking devices the crazy part there is again these can be overcome with signal finders and blockers (all readily available on the net for very little money).
It is a difficult one to balance as to what is the best route to pick, but we have seen a massive interest in customers upgrading their existing Strikeback/Growler alarm systems with our Non-Starter remote immobilisation systems. This not only offers detection of any blockers/grabbers, but even with the thief having a Bypass or stealing the m/h keys from the house, the vehicle has been immobilised with an independent system which compliments our Strikeback/Growler systems.
 
Good post nick , if it was not for insurance reasons I can understand people that don't lock their vans because the damage they do can be horrendous , removing a steering wheel lock in a couple of minutes could cost about £800 for a new steering wheel ,crow bar to open Hab door could result in a new van side and the loss of the van for several month .keep on the right side of you insurance , keeping all keys safe especially the spare set , if possible I leave my spare in a friends van .
 
Molly, that's why I will not pay huge sums for security. As soon as a system has a manufacturer's name on it, the experts will find a method of breaking it. I already have motion detection and Stoplok Pro but even that is only a 10 minute removal. Disklok is the same but that's the best for those devices. Hence the reason I think your own unknown security is a good idea.
 
Molly 3 said:
.IF your van was stolen would you want it back. ????
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mmmmmmm difficult one to answer, especially if there's sentimental reasons (your own build, journeys taken, memories made), but surely it's a good idea to "stop the horse from bolting the stable in the first place"!! I personally don't think there's this golden chalice of how far you go to protect your m/h, only your own interpretation of how much you value the m/h. and want to stop the scum from stealing it or from it so to speak. Then you have the criteria from your insurers on top of that in some cases.
 
nickvanbitz said:
mmmmmmm difficult one to answer, especially if there's sentimental reasons (your own build, journeys taken, memories made), but surely it's a good idea to "stop the horse from bolting the stable in the first place"!! I personally don't think there's this golden chalice of how far you go to protect your m/h, only your own interpretation of how much you value the m/h. and want to stop the scum from stealing it or from it so to speak. Then you have the criteria from your insurers on top of that in some cases.
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Yes, and not just the vehicle but all the contents that may be stolen from, but more particularly with, it.
 
nickvanbitz said:
The problem is with mechanical devices is yes they to offer some level of security, but with the likes of Lidl and Aldi selling battery powered power tools etc, they can be overcome with time. You also have to consider moving the vehicle in the event of an emergency.

Wireless technology can also be subject to code blockers and jamming equipment, hence we do not use wireless on any of our security products (also it isn't Thatcham approved which is another reason why we don't support it).
With Tracking devices the crazy part there is again these can be overcome with signal finders and blockers (all readily available on the net for very little money).
It is a difficult one to balance as to what is the best route to pick, but we have seen a massive interest in customers upgrading their existing Strikeback/Growler alarm systems with our Non-Starter remote immobilisation systems. This not only offers detection of any blockers/grabbers, but even with the thief having a Bypass or stealing the m/h keys from the house, the vehicle has been immobilised with an independent system which compliments our Strikeback/Growler systems.
Click to expand...

I agree Nick. You fitted a StrikeBack to my MH with immobiliser (disable the van from mobile phone app). I use a wheel clamp too when on the drive but that is really for additional deterrent.

Regarding 'do you want you MH back' - I've done a lot to mine and got it just how I want. I do not want it stolen or attempted stolen. We have to rely on the likes of VanBitz to supply mechanisms to stop these scum. They think they can just take our stuff.

Remember the days of car stereos? They were being stolen all the time. Then they introduced codes and removable fronts. Thefts virtually eliminated. I feel we have to contribute to forums like this to share ideas and promote ideas that actually work. For me the pedallock is something new to me and worth considering.

So the value of our contributions here and the new mechanisms the suppliers come up with are invaluable.
 
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