Waxoil treatment...

[Minisorella]

Waxoil treatment...

Something I've considered now and then but never got my head round ... is it worth getting waxoil treatment on an older motorhome?
I know people have mixed feelings about getting it done at all but my van is almost 12 years old now, so would it even help? I saw a thread recently about someone changing their van for another pre-used one and one of the comments was to get it waxoiled. What do you think?

 

[Robmac]

Not sure Jennie.

If you ever need any welding done underneath, it could be a problem. I think Splitty had this on his transit. Needed welding and he couldn't find anybody willing to do it because it was Waxoiled.

 

[Minisorella]

Good point, thanks Rob... score one for not getting it done :smile:
It's all a bit of a minefield for me. I'd go so far as to say I even feel guilty when I haven't done things to the MH that some people see as essential. I'd never had to concern myself over much about vehicles and maintenance over the years, so I hadn't built up a natural 'feel' or sound judgement about this sort of thing. As I said, I've not been able to get my head around Waxoil, so any feedback on the pros and cons is very welcome.

 

[Robmac]

He may have been unlucky Jennie. Some welders would probably take it on as there are so many waxoiled cars on the road, some of them must have needed welding at some point.

Somebody with more knowledge than I will be along before too long!

 

[teejay]

My tuppence worth. There are plenty of things on mohos other than waxoil that are flammable(including the body paint!) and there are also several welding methods depending on the repair but, any welding is capable of causing damage/fire to surrounding areas of anything flammable so needs careful preparation and monitoring as a weld basically heats the steel to a point where it almost melts and fuses to an adjoining piece-some times with a flux to help it do so. Spot welding for instance only uses very localised heat to join the metals and is more easily dealt with and is generally used to join body panels that are not bolted together. Gas welding (oxy acetylene) is sometimes used for thinner metal joints and causes more residual heat. Tig welding is used in a similar way but causes less heat to localised metal and is used on joints needing stronger connection on thicker metal. Mig welding is generally used on very strong joints and causes more heat still on thin to very thick metals. Arc welding is similar in that way too. None of the methods need to be avoided if suitable precautions, preparation and execution are carried out. Its a matter of removing flammable fixings/items from all sides of the intended area of work to a sufficient degree cleaning off a sufficient area of paint, corrosion, underseal(waxoil), removing the damaged part and replacing it with new. Most capable body repair shops will not recoil from carrying out repairs of this nature. Smaller concerns may not have the staff or equipment to carry out such work. I have had in the past, owned older, waxoiled cars that have needed chassis repair welding done which was carried out successfully by my local garage. I would not consider that waxoiling a vehicle should be avoided because of the added cost implications for a future repair. The chances of corrosion repair are considerably reduced by using waxoil anyway-unless the vehicle is so old already that it may soon need a repair.

My expertise and experience comes only from welding bare metals together in blacksmithing operations not from vehicle work but, the abiding principals remain. Any experts in that field may well add to the discussion.

 

[pagey]

looking at this at a different angle if it was waxoiled it should not need to be welded for years if ever

 

[Robmac]

looking at this at a different angle if it was waxoiled it should not need to be welded for years if ever

I think if waxoiled from new maybe, that would be the case. I suppose it deoends what work was done prior to the waxoil treatment?

 

[2cv]

A few views on the subject elsewhere https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&t=518009
This seems to be a better solution http://www.rust.co.uk/our-complete-rust-proofing-service/c32734/#
However , though there are numerous treatments available their effectiveness is debatable. Many require annual inspection and re treatment because any perforation of the treatment can result in moisture being trapped and exactly the opposite effect to that required.
I'm very keen to look after my van as it does not have a new equivalent to replace it with. For this reason I have investigated the available treatments but have decided against using them because of the possible pitfalls.

 

[oppy]

These were recommended to us ---http://www.before-n-after.co.uk/index.html, but various folks on the WC site suggested that regular checks and remedial work by a trusted garage was probably a better bet

 

[trevskoda]

Diniterol is better,but i use w/oil with a rust inhibitor mixed in with it and my last car lasted 22 years with some patch welding,yest do it if you are able to do so and have the equipment,i have.
My new car was striped by me and all sections done,my van has some as most alloy and wood ,yes go for it,whats 30 bucks out you pocket.

 

[Les Haro]

Diniterol is better,but i use w/oil with a rust inhibitor mixed in with it and my last car lasted 22 years with some patch welding,yest do it if you are able to do so and have the equipment,i have.
My new car was striped by me and all sections done,my van has some as most alloy and wood ,yes go for it,whats 30 bucks out you pocket.

Old engine oil is the best stuff ever, what Mini ever had a rusty front sub assembly. Carcinogenic so wear a mask.
Agreed Diniterol products are good but what are the quantities of each liquid are you using. Are you using a spray gun of any sort.
Welding is always risky/surprising you never know where the next fire is coming from, even after cleaning all areas of flammables.
So it doesn't matter what you rust proof with they will all gas off with the heat of welding. Welders know this and are ready to panic in a controlled manner.

 

[Winks]

Been thinking about doing the treatment on our Hobby as well Jennie but decided I'll hang fire until the van is due an MOT in March and see what it looks like over the pit.

I was quoted a price of £800 shortly after we bought the Behemoth but I'm tending towards treating only the original Fiat part of the chassis because everything from behind the cab to the tow bar is Alko and therefore galvanised. I can see a trip to Trevor's emporium in the offing for next year.:wink:

Cheers

H

 

[oldish hippy]

well if it was ok on last mot then i wouldnt get it done as it getting to to age where it might need some welding done and it easy to do it and the waxoil isnt hiding any thing and you dont have the same problem that ido with salt on the road all year round

 

[Barge1914]

Something I've considered now and then but never got my head round ... is it worth getting waxoil treatment on an older motorhome?
I know people have mixed feelings about getting it done at all but my van is almost 12 years old now, so would it even help? I saw a thread recently about someone changing their van for another pre-used one and one of the comments was to get it waxoiled. What do you think?

We had part of the hull under the wheelhouse waxoiled on our 100 year old barge. Later had a plate welded underneath, only a bit of local smoking and charring along the weld. However if the waxoil was still fresh and the volatile spirit solvent had not yet all evaporated out it might be a different story. One thing I discovered a year after waxoiling heavily rusted steel was that it had loosened the bond between the flakes of rust to the extent it could be shovelled up by the bucketful!

 

[motoroamer]

I'm with 2cv and Les Haro on this one in that waxoiling an older vehicle stands to have the opposite effect to preservation and that old engine oil is the cheapest and best preservative method.

There is a Commercial Garage at Appledore kitted out to get oil into every nook and cranny under your vehicle for £30 or so. I think if done every 2-3 years, no rusting/corrosion will occur. Don't go straight home and park on your nice clean driveway though !

 

[trevskoda]

Old engine oil is the best stuff ever, what Mini ever had a rusty front sub assembly. Carcinogenic so wear a mask.
Agreed Diniterol products are good but what are the quantities of each liquid are you using. Are you using a spray gun of any sort.
Welding is always risky/surprising you never know where the next fire is coming from, even after cleaning all areas of flammables.
So it doesn't matter what you rust proof with they will all gas off with the heat of welding. Welders know this and are ready to panic in a controlled manner.

Old oil is full of acid which will help rust start NOT recomended,and the mot will make you steam wash it off before test,and would you want that inside door panels etc running out bottom water drains,apart from it will not stick and remain there.

 

[harrow]

I had a car that I had waxoyl from brand new.

It needed welding because the waxoyl did not work,

It had a rust hole through the floor when it was 6 years old.

I have the old rusty waxoyl tin in the garage

:White_Thumbs_Down_S

 

[witzend]

Don,t use old oil as said do more harm than good waxoyl is designed not to damage rubber bushes or brake pipes. I always waxoyl every vehicle I,ve owned The welder most likely didn,t want the job any way as waxoyl isn,t flamable can you see it being licenced if it was

 

[Robmac]

Don,t use old oil as said do more harm than good waxoyl is designed not to damage rubber bushes or brake pipes. I always waxoyl every vehicle I,ve owned The welder most likely didn,t want the job any way as waxoyl isn,t flamable can you see it being licenced if it was

I thought he said he couldn't get it welded anywhere around where he lived, but I could be wrong.

But I don't know for sure if the reason for refusal was because of fire danger or other reasons?

 

[yorkslass]

I would have thought, that unless the underside of any vehicle can be totally dried out, treating it will only trap moisture in, speeding up the rusting process.