Weight issues

Mercedes
my mileage was always almost 10% out as i believe hymer as standard practise fit 15” wheels on smaller vans for torque etc this wheel change has corrected my reading to only 1% out by speedo to sat nav
Hymer use the wheels of the base vehicle. Mine is based on the biggest Sprinter of its era, which came on 15" wheels. It wasn't far out on the speedometer - reading less than 2% high at most.
I put the biggest tyres specified as options, and that made a really big improvement. I could probably have gone to 16" wheels, but can't see much point, and tyres two sizes bigger had more or less the same effect at negative cost (the larger tyres are cheaper, not more expensive - no idea why)
 
Many many thanks for all your suggestions guys,
ive phoned SV Tech and spoke to a really nice helpful guy, who suggested what can and can’t be done, how much, and what I need to fit to take it up to 3.85t
ive also had a very enlightening phone conversation with Phil, and he actually suggested JR consultancy, so I’m going to give him a ring tomorrow.
As im not paying for the paperwork side of it, it won’t really matter who I use, but I’ll see what JRC have to say about needing wider tyres and air bags, and I’ll decide from there.
Many thanks again for our informative chat Phil, I’ve learned loads.
Hope everyone is enjoying our new found freedom from lockdown, Happy travels, and STAY SAFE
 
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in the midst of this process but don’t take my comments as gospel every one you talk to has a different opinion, my van can go from 3500 to 4150 although a paper exercise it will require proof of adjustments in set up ie i have gone for bigger 16” wheels to enable a higher load rating & tomorrow i am having inflatable bellows fitted on the rear suspension, it’s all going to have cost about £1500 but last time i weighed mine in full travelling mode i was 3850 too high to get down to 3500 comfortably best to get legal and carry everything without worrying,
although there are some savings the bigger wheels will increase fuel consumption but only couple of miles the tax will go down etc be a long time till it breaks even but will sell of my 15” wheels as spares for people whose new vans come without them ,
Hi Rugbyken
Im sorry to come into your post but could you tell me what is inflatable bellows? I would like to have my van heightened to be able to get up some hills without scraping the back end or come to that the front. When I purchased this van I didn’t take into consideration it was low wheel based. Hopefully this makes sense to you, being a female I’m at a loss as to what I’m asking without feeling like an idiot. If I can get some information I would gladly appreciate your help. Being ripped off at garages in the past, some knowledge before approach is premium for me. Thank You. Patricia
 
in the midst of this process but don’t take my comments as gospel every one you talk to has a different opinion, my van can go from 3500 to 4150 although a paper exercise it will require proof of adjustments in set up ie i have gone for bigger 16” wheels to enable a higher load rating & tomorrow i am having inflatable bellows fitted on the rear suspension, it’s all going to have cost about £1500 but last time i weighed mine in full travelling mode i was 3850 too high to get down to 3500 comfortably best to get legal and carry everything without worrying,
although there are some savings the bigger wheels will increase fuel consumption but only couple of miles the tax will go down etc be a long time till it breaks even but will sell of my 15” wheels as spares for people whose new vans come without them ,
you could stay with 15" wheels but just change them to higher load rating. be it 15 or 16 you will need higher load rating than you have now.
 
you could stay with 15" wheels but just change them to higher load rating. be it 15 or 16 you will need higher load rating than you have now.
I thought I would need to do that so went to a tyre/wheel company. When the fitters looked at what was on they thought going to 16” rims and a suitable tyre would bring clearance issues on the front for steering. Not always straightforward option 👍
 
Im sorry to come into your post but could you tell me what is inflatable bellows? I would like to have my van heightened to be able to get up some hills without scraping the back end or come to that the front.
I live in a hilly area, so scraping the tail is quite common.

If you raise the suspension above what it was designed for, you will get problems with the drivetrain: the joints won't be running straight.

If you fit bigger wheels, you raise the ride height by only about an inch: not enough to significantly reduce the chances of tail scrapes.

But before making any changes, it might be better to diagnose the problem.

Is it just that your suspension is lower than it's meant to be? Perhaps the springs have weakened and are sagging, or perhaps you are overloading the vehicle.

Either of these is best cured by fixing the problem rather than hiding it with air suspension.

There are two sorts of air springs you can add: the cheaper sort replace the rubber bump stops and are inflated by a hose. They just help the existing springs take the weight. They cost a few hundred pounds.

The better solution is to replace the load-bearng springs with ones that only hold the axle in place, and fit proper air springs to carry all the weight. This gives a far better ride and is more controllable (you can let them down for levelling, pump them up for steep ramps).

Normally they have their own air tank and pump, and work automatically, levelling the vehicle whatever the load. You see them on the back of tipper lorries. A good solution, but they cost a few thousand pounds as a retrofit. Unless your van is fairly new, probably not economic.

One other thing you could consider is a strong tail. My motorhome has a towbar (though I never use it to tow) which has heavy nylon rollers at the ends, so when the tail strikes, the rollers take the strain and prevent the bodywork hitting.

There's not usually enough overhang at the front to be a problem. Does yours sit very low, or does it have a big front overhang?
 
Not sure a towbar and rollers is a good solution as that is levering the weight to the fixing points on the chassis. A towbar is not designed for lifting regardless of if it has worked for you for years. Much better to fit bellows to lift and drop as needed if everything else is as it should be.
 
A towbar is easily strong enough to lift the vehicle. If it can't help a tail strike, it won't be safe to tow with.

Adding bellows doesn't let you lift and drop: it only reduces the amount it sinks when loaded.
 
Maybe my terminology is wrong, not sure what you call the actual rubber bags I have fitted. They are AS Air Suspension fitted to the rear but in addition to standard suspension. I have a compressor fitted, two gauges and two bleed nipples and can adjust the air pressure/ride height in motion or stationary. They are currently changing web sites so I cannot see prices but it was well under a thousand pounds. My system has been fitted without any problem or maintenance for 12 years according to AS 👍
 
Maybe my terminology is wrong, not sure what you call the actual rubber bags I have fitted. They are AS Air Suspension fitted to the rear but in addition to standard suspension. I have a compressor fitted, two gauges and two bleed nipples and can adjust the air pressure/ride height in motion or stationary. They are currently changing web sites so I cannot see prices but it was well under a thousand pounds. My system has been fitted without any problem or maintenance for 12 years according to AS 👍
I think you are describing the sort that I call Air Assist, which puts airbags in place of the bump stops. As I said, it costs less than £1k.

You may be able to change its pressure, but you won't have a button or lever that lets you select a different ride height on the fly, or a button to let the air out to level.
 
I call it air assist as well, there are no automatic settings but i can pump up or deflate on the fly. I have used it to help level in the past but not normally too bothered about level if something near.
When you hold button to inflate/raise it does both sides together but each side has its own valve to deflate. All controls in the cab below dash on drivers side in mine. The controls I have look the same as they show on their new web page
 
Update.......
I’ve telephoned JR. Consultancy, and spoke to the owner,
very knowledgeable guy, who can up the weight limit on my van to 3850kg with no modifications.
So no new tyres to buy, and no air bags to buy, and on top of that he’s about £100 cheaper than VTech.
Its all down to engineers reports and type approval, so many thanks again Phil for the info, just awaiting return of my log book from buying van, so I can get info from it, and start the process.
Also phoned my insurance company, no increase in premium, and the recovery company that I’ve got through them cover up to 7.5 ton.....
Happy Days
 
This is the system I had fitted they replace the bumper stops with bellows that can be inflated up to 75psi mine are set at 40 and that has raised the rear slightly certainly stabilised the yaw when cornering I chose not to have a compressor inbuilt and can top up with the tyre compressor IMG_0044.PNG
 
Depends on the vehicle. My sprinter-based motorhome went from 4600 to 4900 which involved paying for a bit of paper and a new sticker with higher weights.

Didn't really need it, as there was a few hundred kg spare anyway, but it was less than £200.

Yours may or may not be able to upgrade. If it can, the road tax will be cheaper, but you'll need C1 on your licence to drive it.

Phone John Ruffles and ask!
Thank you Simon where can I get John's number cheers mark
 
I live in a hilly area, so scraping the tail is quite common.

If you raise the suspension above what it was designed for, you will get problems with the drivetrain: the joints won't be running straight.

If you fit bigger wheels, you raise the ride height by only about an inch: not enough to significantly reduce the chances of tail scrapes.

But before making any changes, it might be better to diagnose the problem.

Is it just that your suspension is lower than it's meant to be? Perhaps the springs have weakened and are sagging, or perhaps you are overloading the vehicle.

Either of these is best cured by fixing the problem rather than hiding it with air suspension.

There are two sorts of air springs you can add: the cheaper sort replace the rubber bump stops and are inflated by a hose. They just help the existing springs take the weight. They cost a few hundred pounds.

The better solution is to replace the load-bearng springs with ones that only hold the axle in place, and fit proper air springs to carry all the weight. This gives a far better ride and is more controllable (you can let them down for levelling, pump them up for steep ramps).

Normally they have their own air tank and pump, and work automatically, levelling the vehicle whatever the load. You see them on the back of tipper lorries. A good solution, but they cost a few thousand pounds as a retrofit. Unless your van is fairly new, probably not economic.

One other thing you could consider is a strong tail. My motorhome has a towbar (though I never use it to tow) which has heavy nylon rollers at the ends, so when the tail strikes, the rollers take the strain and prevent the bodywork hitting.

There's not usually enough overhang at the front to be a problem. Does yours sit very low, or does it have a big front overhang?
My motorhome also has a tow bar. The front hasn't got a big overhang just the back end. Even speed bumps in the road sometimes scrapes the back end (no damage to body). It does have a cage to hold the spare wheel underneath which is where I think that the grinding noise hits. Looking at it, even removed wouldn’t give me protection. I’ve taken on board about load bearing springs. Would this solution prevent the back end body getting destroyed? One more thing, if I proceeded to go with this will the front end on the slope then go lower to have some concern? I did last year enquire at my usual garage about heightening. They weren’t forthcoming about any fix. Is it a specialist I need to visit rather than a garage mechanic? I’m desperate to have some solution. My favourite/usual yearly place in Croatia has a very steep ramp like hill. I know when i had my 1991 Hymer it did scrape slightly and managed it. My vehicle now has been up some hilly roads less than the incline and caught. I know I would never attempt to try Croatia being as it is.
 
My motorhome also has a tow bar. The front hasn't got a big overhang just the back end. Even speed bumps in the road sometimes scrapes the back end (no damage to body). It does have a cage to hold the spare wheel underneath which is where I think that the grinding noise hits. Looking at it, even removed wouldn’t give me protection. I’ve taken on board about load bearing springs. Would this solution prevent the back end body getting destroyed? One more thing, if I proceeded to go with this will the front end on the slope then go lower to have some concern? I did last year enquire at my usual garage about heightening. They weren’t forthcoming about any fix. Is it a specialist I need to visit rather than a garage mechanic? I’m desperate to have some solution. My favourite/usual yearly place in Croatia has a very steep ramp like hill. I know when i had my 1991 Hymer it did scrape slightly and managed it. My vehicle now has been up some hilly roads less than the incline and caught. I know I would never attempt to try Croatia being as it is.
I didnt catch what moHo you have , have you weighed front and rear axles to see what load you are carrying ? If it is within specs then it is likely that your springs have weakened . In which case you have three options to get to correct ride height . 1 fit new springs 2 fit air springs to assist, 3 do both . 1 should get you correct ride height , but will not be able to give you extra rear clearance should you want to go higher for ferry ramps etc 2 will get you back to correct ride height , and will enable extra lift 3 will achieve all possibles . The front end going down with rear end lifting would be minimal unless taken to extremes. If front ride height is found to be below spec then most likely only answer is new springs depending on front suspension design . If you look under rear at tow bar and spare wheel carrier you should be able to see register marks (scratches) left by contact with ground .
 
Ah, you meant more MPG not fewer. I find that the biggest fuel saving approach is to use the cruise control. It accelerates more gently than I do
My experience of cruise control is that it doesn't take advantage of downhill to gain momentum for a slope afterwards.
But yes they are programmed for gentle throttle operation.
 

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