It’s a cluster.5ohm resister works.
Full light cluster. It’s just the indecators that flash very fastLights or just bulbs ?
Ouch Rog lololPardon our interruption...
www.ebay.co.uk
On my Autotrail I use these cluster lights They have a 12v bulb in the middle and therefore everything works fine.
Can’t believe the price nowadays!
That gets over the problem.Pardon our interruption...
www.ebay.co.uk
On my Autotrail I use these cluster lights They have a 12v bulb in the middle and therefore everything works fine.
Can’t believe the price nowadays!
Not done it for a long time I recall just in the 12v feed wire.It’s a cluster.
Where would I get some and how to fit them please.
One of the lights have been smashed in by a hit and run driver
Never stopped it was in a car park..
however I have two led lights fitted one yesterday and the lights flashing was to fast.
Seems it went into super fast mode as it detected a broken bulb. Well it’s not there now…
If I could get a small 12 bulb and lens I could fit that and I am sure the problem would be sorted .
As led lights use less power I need to increase the draw to 12 volts a resister seems again the only way.
But can’t say what power is being drawn with the led indecators.
View attachment 74161
That explains why the wire is heat resistant then…on the load resistors.Kev's idea of adding a dummy load resistor would be the cheapest option. You'll need to connect the resistor between ground and the indicator feed. Personally I'd open up the cluster, trace the tracks and solder it inside there but you could fit it externally on the cable coming in.
5 ohms is the nearest preferred value but will dissipate nearly 30 watts while it's on therefore about 15watts overall so will get quite hot especially if/when you sit with the indicator on for a time. A 7.5 ohm would be better and I reckon a 10 ohm would still fool the system. 10 ohms would mean 15watts/7watts overall, a lot cooler, smaller and cheaper. Search on eBay and make sure you don't go lower with the wattage, going higher is ok. You could always just use a bulb of course.
Yep, that sort of design you can screw down to metal to act be as a heatsink. Most are like that when you go over 5/10 watts. I've got a 8 ohm 200w that I use as a dummy speaker load when testing amps, you can't bolt it to a heatsink but it's the size of a 1/2 pound bar of chocolate!