Brake pad lifespan

[SimonM]

I first replaced the O.E. front pads at 31,000 miles

Then front and rear discs and pads at 42,000 miles. The discs were necessary and of course the pads were changed as a matter of course, so I don’t recall how worn they were

Today, I’ve replaced the fronts again at 56,000. And at 14,000 miles it was really about 2000 late. They were starting to deteriorate, flaking at the sides.

It looks like they will now be a simple 10,000 mile replacement regardless of wear. Fiat in their wisdom provide a wear wire only on the lh side, it was the rh with the greater wear.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

I have a spare set of pads for one calliper if anyone can use them Postage cost only.

 

[Millie Master]

I have a spare set of pads for one calliper if anyone can use them Postage cost only.

It is always best practice to change brake components across the axle i.e. never only fit pads to one side at a time but both.

As for the brakes and brake components I always buy all of my needs from EBC Brakes and in most cases you will find their prices to be lower than, in this instance FIAT and EBC brakes are widely fitted by a large number of people in motor sport because of their performance.
I fit EBC "Green Stuff" pads to my Renault Master and find them to be both long lasting and being of a certain compound type they cause next to no brake dust https://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/?gcl...0zpZhH6OzP7ku5Z6M2DSd1vZOry52VMRoCoI0QAvD_BwE

 

[marchie]

I had the M/Home serviced last week at 19535 miles and almost 7 years old. I asked the garage to check the brakes [still original pads and discs] but there was no need to change them. I do drive very gently, and most of the mileage has been motorway/autoroute, but I suspect that discs adn pads are entering their final phase of serviceability!

Steve

 

[nabsim]

Second what Millie says above. Please make sure you select the right grade for intended use though. I had a very exciting drive in my Saab 900 over the Cat & Fiddle years ago (before speed cameras were errected) after fitting some Ferodo fast rally competition pads.

Removed them as soon as I got back home lol

 

[Pudsey Bear]

It is always best practice to change brake components across the axle i.e. never only fit pads to one side at a time but both.

As for the brakes and brake components I always buy all of my needs from EBC Brakes and in most cases you will find their prices to be lower than, in this instance FIAT and EBC brakes are widely fitted by a large number of people in motor sport because of their performance.
I fit EBC "Green Stuff" pads to my Renault Master and find them to be both long lasting and being of a certain compound type they cause next to no brake dust https://www.ebcbrakeshop.co.uk/?gcl...0zpZhH6OzP7ku5Z6M2DSd1vZOry52VMRoCoI0QAvD_BwE

Yes well aware, but I had a calliper replaced after it seized up knackering the pads only 64 miles after a new set was fitted so I have pair spare, 07 Ducato, may fit others of course

 

[wildebus]

Just a comment ...

.... Fiat in their wisdom provide a wear wire only on the lh side, it was the rh with the greater wear.

Pretty typical when there is a brake pad low light. VW fit on just one side on the front and on just one side (the opposite) on the rear.
I was lucky with my VW T4 - when I had a stuck caliper, it happened to be the one which had the wear wiring to it

 

[wildebus]

I had the M/Home serviced last week at 19535 miles and almost 7 years old. I asked the garage to check the brakes [still original pads and discs] but there was no need to change them. I do drive very gently, and most of the mileage has been motorway/autoroute, but I suspect that discs adn pads are entering their final phase of serviceability!

Steve

something to bear in mind .... garages charge a high premium to change discs and/or pads usually, but the parts are cheap and usually very easy to replace (especially when disc brakes, not drums. hate drums!).

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Annoyingly it had just passed its MOT. The calliper was binding so they put new pins and rubbers in we went away a week later and only got as far as Kendal, Cost us over £300 to carry on with our holiday, I was peed off of course but the MOT garage had tried to save us money, the one in Kendal just took advantage and ripped us off.

 

[nabsim]

Annoyingly it had just passed its MOT. The calliper was binding so they put new pins and rubbers in we went away a week later and only got as far as Kendal, Cost us over £300 to carry on with our holiday, I was peed off of course but the MOT garage had tried to save us money, the one in Kendal just took advantage and ripped us off.

I had brake warning light come on my Sprinter must be getting on 4 years ago. Contacted local garage I used before I left Peak District and booked it in. They got everything that may have been needed to change the lot front and back (sale or return with factors). When it came to the work they changed front disks and pads and rear pads for a grand total of I think £92 including parts, layout and VAT.

Highly recommend Stella Motors in Dove Holes if anyone is in the Buxton area and needs work doing. They used to charge me £28 for MOT as well

 

[marchie]

something to bear in mind .... garages charge a high premium to change discs and/or pads usually, but the parts are cheap and usually very easy to replace (especially when disc brakes, not drums. hate drums!).

I am happy to leave the job to my local garage, David. I don't have the skills, the tools, the knowledge or the space to do the work safely, and saving a couple of hundred quid in exchange for the cost of a direct cremation [at least until energy prices fall ...] is not terribly appealing

Steve

 

[nabsim]

I a

I am happy to leave the job to my local garage, David. I don't have the skills, the tools, the knowledge or the space to do the work safely, and saving a couple of hundred quid in exchange for the cost of a direct cremation [at least until energy prices fall ...] is not terribly appealing

Steve

l always did them on my bikes and cars but too old and knackered these days unfortunately

 

[wildebus]

I am happy to leave the job to my local garage, David. I don't have the skills, the tools, the knowledge or the space to do the work safely, and saving a couple of hundred quid in exchange for the cost of a direct cremation [at least until energy prices fall ...] is not terribly appealing

Steve

It may seem strange (and it is!) but I have serviced the brakes on my vehicles when I have shied away from doing just about any other job. I only did my very first oil change less than 5 years ago but for some reason I stripped out the brakes on my Vauxhall Viva when I was living in student accomodation on London and car parked on the street. Not sure why I like doing brakes!

but having said all that, if you were to get a deal like Neil did, that would be a result and a half!!

 

[Exwindsurfer]

I a

l always did them on my bikes and cars but too old and knackered these days unfortunately

I am the same as you Neal to bloody old and it's not worth the pain I have to go though the next few days.

 

[nabsim]

I am the same as you Neal to bloody old and it's not worth the pain I have to go though the next few days.

Yeah that’s what does me, maybe able to do it but would be knackered for days lol. Not that I mind, would sooner be out with the dogs than scratching with stubborn brakes nowadays lol

Many moons ago my mate had problems doing them on his Cortina. I ended up going through everything with him but we couldn’t get them working properly. Ended up getting a complete back axle from a scrappy and fitting that to get the brakes right.we never did see what component(s) were actually at fault

 

[nabsim]

It may seem strange (and it is!) but I have serviced the brakes on my vehicles when I have shied away from doing just about any other job. I only did my very first oil change less than 5 years ago but for some reason I stripped out the brakes on my Vauxhall Viva when I was living in student accomodation on London and car parked on the street. Not sure why I like doing brakes!

but having said all that, if you were to get a deal like Neil did, that would be a result and a half!!

Once had cylinder head off our Cortina at side of the road, decoked pistons, cleaned all head components and relapsed valves lol

Did you know on early Honda Civics you could drop the sump, undo big ends and withdraw con rod and piston from underneath leaving crank in place? Did that as well lol

 

[wildebus]

Once had cylinder head off our Cortina at side of the road, decoked pistons, cleaned all head components and relapsed valves lol

Did you know on early Honda Civics you could drop the sump, undo big ends and withdraw con rod and piston from underneath leaving crank in place? Did that as well lol

I would not have a scooby on the above!

 

[Exwindsurfer]

I had the head of a 2.4 jag couldnt get the shims for the valve clearance so use the ones out of a hill imp just slightly smaller but worked fine Neal

 

[trevskoda]

I went looking for shims for a toyota, chaps just said o one does that job and we dont have any, so ended up swapping some around and suurface grinding thick ones on a pane of glass with paste to get within a thu of factory settings, all after replacing a burnt ex valve.
All this was a few years back for b inlaws car which he bought at auction and had it round a few garages who scalped him saying it required a service and had the cheek to ask for payment, and he did before landing it on me to sort.

 

[Pudsey Bear]

Once had cylinder head off our Cortina at side of the road, decoked pistons, cleaned all head components and relapsed valves lol

Did you know on early Honda Civics you could drop the sump, undo big ends and withdraw con rod and piston from underneath leaving crank in place? Did that as well lol

And you could change the cam belt at the side of the road too, I had to as the garage wanted so much to recover and repair.