Charging your Leisure Batteries on the move.

B2B is a dc to dc battery charger, so it takes its live feed from the alternator

VSR is a voltage sensitive relay, in this instance Dave means running alternator power to the leisure battery, it senses an increase when the engine starts and allows the alternator to charge leisure battery bank
 
Ok, just for thick me could you define what b2b and vsr mean? I am in awe of you @wildebus and keep reading your technical posts in the hope that some knowledge will trickle in! If you can explain, I can maybe identify what we have or at least ask someone!
Thanks Ruth
Hi Ruth,
Good Point. It is too easy to assume people know what these abbreviations mean. I know what they are as it is my "thing" but there are loads of other abbreviations I read on here on threads about some stuff which mean nothing to me as it is outside my area and I wish that they had been explained!

Split-Charger.
Really the term 'Split Charger' does not refer to any specific product or type of charger. It is just a term that is used to say that you are able to use the Power from the alternator to allow you to charge a Leisure Battery as well as the vehicle Starter Battery. So if someone says "I have a split-charger in my Motorhome" it just means they have some kind of way to charge a leisure battery when the engine is running.
Exactly WHAT way is a totally separate question. It is a misleading term really I think, but is now so common we are stuck with it!
A B2B and a VSR are both "split chargers" in the way that term gets (unfortunately) used.

B2B = Battery to Battery.
So a Mains Charger is a way to charge your Batteries from a Mains Supply. a B2B Charger is exactly the same thing, except instead of using 230V AC Mains, it is using a 12V DC supply - and that is usually power generated by the alternator when the engine is running.

VSR = Voltage Sensing Relay.
In a vehicle, the starter battery is charged up by the alternator of course. The 'traditional' way to charge the leisure battery in a Motorhome (or Caravan) was to use a relay that switches on when the alternator is running so that leisure battery is connected to the alternator just like the starter battery is. The relays used to be switched on and off via a control wire from the alternator, but for the last decade or so, the VSR has taken over from the old-style relays for split-charging systems as it is a lot easier to install.
The VSR works just like the name implies - The Relay Senses the Voltage level and when the voltage hits a certain figure (around 13.2V usually), the relay will click in and the connection is made automatically from Leisure Battery to Starter Battery (and so Alternator). Then when the Voltage drops below a certain figure (around 12.7V) the relay will click off and disconnect. This way, the relay only turns on when the Starter Battery is getting charged up and then turns off again when the charge is removed.

Most B2B Chargers you can buy are Smart Chargers e.g. They have different charging levels to suit the needs of the battery.
a VSR is really just a fancy automatic switch. It doesn't actually do any charging itself, it just provides a path to allow the Alternator to charge the lesiure battery.

Most Factory Motorhomes come with some kind of Split-Charger device pre-fitted and they have various capabilites and capacities (in terms of Amperage/Current delivery.
If you have a Factory Motorhome, it will likely be part of a power distribution unit and you'd have to check the manuals (or maybe ask on this forum stating your Motorhome and someone will surely be able to advise you).
If you have a self-conversion (or maybe an older motorhome that has been updated/repaired?) you will probably have either a B2B or a VSR device.
A VSR as used in the UK and Europe are almost always shaped like a little cube around 30mm x 30mm x 30mm in size and will be black (I've never seen one that is not black!). It will typically have two thick cables on it - one for 12V in and one for 12V out.
A B2B will be notably larger, almost always rectangular in shape and look much more like a mains Battery Charger. It will have THREE thick cables on the B2B - One for 12V in, one for 12V out AND ALSO one for Ground/0V.
Of course, there is always the exception around, but as a rule of thumb, I think you are pretty safe going by the above.

HTH :)
 
Hi Wildebus

Could you explain the difference, if there is any between a "dual sensing" VSR and a one way VSR? I need to check/ confirm my understanding.

Cheers

K ;)
 
Hi Wildebus

Could you explain the difference, if there is any between a "dual sensing" VSR and a one way VSR? I need to check/ confirm my understanding.

Cheers

K ;)
One-Way VSR - when the voltage on the Input (Starter Battery side) hits the sensing value (so around 13.2V) the relay is enabled and turns on. The voltage on the output (Lesiure Battery) side gets ignored in terms of activating the relay or not.

Dual Sensing - when EITHER the Inpurt or Output side hits the sensing voltage value the relay turns on.

A good example of a one-way VSR is the TEC3M, often used in Towbar Electrics and also 3-Way Fridge Circuits I understand.
Most High-Power VSRs used in Split-Charge setups seem to be Dual-Sensing (all the various ones I have tried have been).
The pro to having a dual-sense VSR is if you are charging a Lesiure Battery from Mains or Solar, you will also be able to automatically charge the Starter Battery once the Lesiure Battery hits 13.2V.
I can switch between B2B and VSR in my van and will set it to use the VSR when I am left parked up so the Solar (or EHU) will maintain the Starter Battery as well.
 
Thankyou ;) I have a Cargo VSR which I believe is dual sensing per your explanation.
I feel much happier having you confirm that.
Electrics not my strong point

K ;)
 
Thankyou ;) I have a Cargo VSR which I believe is dual sensing per your explanation.
I feel much happier having you confirm that.
Electrics not my strong point

K ;)
I have the HC Cargo VSR in my van also and it is indeed dual-sensing :)
 
I have completed the VSR Test. Some interesting info and results but I need to do all the other tests before any comparisions possible of course.
I did the Redarc test yesterday. The conclusion so far with that one is that I need to speak to Redarc as the results are not quite as expected! When I do the next B2B (tomorrow it should be), It will be a bit clearer if that was normal for B2Bs generally or an anomoly with either Redarc or my particular one.

Here is a nice colourful graph in the meantime of using a VSR:

BT - VSR Excel Chart
by David, on Flickr
The Total of the Red Area and Green Area together is the power that was generated by the power supply to the VSR e.g. the Alternator
The Green Area is the power that actually went into the batteries as recorded by the system.
The Red Area represents the power that is lost within the cables from Power Supply to VSR, cables from VSR to Batteries, plus of course the VSR itself.

Doing the maths, this means there seems to be around 12.5% power losses between supply and battery - that is a fair bit for a fairly basic Relay, but there is bound to be some as the relay got pretty warm as did the cables and of course heat = wasted energy in the charging process.
 
b2b is battery to battery and vsr is voltage sensing relay. I have no idea how either of them work but I do know what the acronyms stand for
 
Should it? Well it depends on the battery spec but generally I would say yes, ideally, for most lead acid.
First stage is bulk/CC - where the current is as much as can be delivered and voltage builds up; Second stage is absorption/CV - where the voltage stays at the top voltage (so 14.4V typically) and current starts to reduce; Third stage is float - where voltage drops and current is just a trickle.
Is there a specific reason for this question, Trev?
I have just done a rebuild of charging assy in van,two numax chargers,one for engine and other for hab,plus new solar regulator,no getting 14.4 as old diode sys only went to 13.7solar control a.png
 
sounds Good, Trev :)
the 'icing on the cake' would be if it adjusted the charge voltage to compensate for the temperature (lower the temp, higher the voltage).
 
If you use a B2B charger, does it step-up the voltage output to 14.4 volts? As I understand it, most alternators regulate their output to around 13.8 - 13.9v, so in essence never fully charge any battery connected to them. Is this also correct?
 
If you use a B2B charger, does it step-up the voltage output to 14.4 volts? As I understand it, most alternators regulate their output to around 13.8 - 13.9v, so in essence never fully charge any battery connected to them. Is this also correct?
The one I have fitted does but it will depend on what charge cycle you select I think
 
If you use a B2B charger, does it step-up the voltage output to 14.4 volts? As I understand it, most alternators regulate their output to around 13.8 - 13.9v, so in essence never fully charge any battery connected to them. Is this also correct?
Well, this is essentially what I am testing - how well the various charging options do in that respect.
 
  • Like
Reactions: TR5
So far I have done:

VSR Test. Once input current reduced to 95A, that test went pretty well as expected, but results a little better than I expected :)

Redarc Test. This prompted a couple of questions and I am in conversation with Redarc Technical in Australia about how their charger works.

Ablemail Test. This test is coming to a conclusion this evening and I'll be discussing some aspects of the results with Ablemail in the morning.

Tomorrow's test will be the 500W Inverter + 20A Mains Charger combo, followed by a straight 20A Mains Charger Test (obviously not an "on the move" test but will be interesting to compare these two. I fully expect the results to be near enough identical).

I might run an extra test with a 35A Mains Charger as a cross-check against the two B2Bs tested as they will (or should) all have a very similar charging time given the outputs are similar.
 
Ok, so I have completed the testing :D

Got some interesting results and that has caused me to change my thoughts a little on which options to go for in which situations :)

So Recap on what I tested, how I tested and some caveats.

Used a Victron Multiplus set at a constant 13.9V and a maximum of 95A to replicate a fairly typical Alternator output.
The test assumes the 'alternator' is always outputing up to this level. In real life, when the engine is idling, the alternator output may be reduced.
Once the test started, it carried on until done. So there are no "rest breaks" like you would usually have when driving.
And this is only relevant for Lead Acid Technology, NOT Lithium.


What did I test?
Used the Victron Multiplus in its normal Multistage 'Smart' mode as a control. This represents the best possible charging I have available for my Camperbus
Then switching it to the 'Alternator' style output, I tested:
140A HC Cargo VSR
40A Redarc BCDC1240 B2B Charger
30A Ablemail B2B Charger
20A Victron IP22 Mains Charger powered by 500W MSW Inverter powered by the 'Alternator'.
All tests were to recharge a 12V 380Ah AGM Battery Bank that had previously been discharged to 50% SOC in precisely the same way and the batteries fully recharged between tests.

So a fair variety of different output ratings and 3 different approaches to charging.


How do they compare?
Well this is a graph of the 5 different charging tests carried out showing how the SOC (State of Charge) increased over time for each of them and how long it took

BT - Summary SOC
by David, on Flickr
As you would except, the Multiplus in native mode (the RED line) is the best performing device. But even this unit still takes nearly 8 hours to fully recharge a 380AH Battery Bank from 50% SOC.
The next best method is actually the VSR. This tracks the Multiplus quite well, but is not as effective because there are losses in the Relay and cabling, plus the maximum voltage is 0.5V lower.
This lower voltage will prevent the battery ever getting a full charge BUT the increased current would make up for that (there is a gotcha about this later on). So for MY setup, the most effective option would appear to be the basic VSR option rather than B2Bs costing hundreds of pounds!
The two B2Bs start to close the gap but not until 4:30 Hours later.
What I saw and I am not sure if it is commonly known is both B2Bs (which are different makes)appeared to switch to Float mode after a set length of time - 4:30 in the case of the Redarc and 5:30 for the Ablemail. This is before Charging was complete.
In the case of the Redarc, the float voltage went down to around 13.2V - this level is actually not enough to provide any charge (which is why the blue line just flattens until I stopped the test). The Ablemail float voltage was 13.8V, which is similar to the alternator output. The effect is that charging continues at a reduced rate and the SOC increase slows of course.
Finally the 20A Charger + Inverter is a good steady line and eventually provides a full charge, but being only 20A takes quite a while


This is what the voltage outputs look like for the different chargers

BT - Summary Voltage
by David, on Flickr
Shows quite a variety of approaches here
The initial voltage levels are down to the current going in so the voltages are gradually going up while the (smart) chargers are in bulk mode.
The Victron Chargers (this includes the Inverter test) go up to over 14.5V as they have temperature compensation available.
The Redarc goes up to 14.4V (the basic target for Lead Acid) before dropping to a surprisingly low 13.2V float
The Ablemail goes up to 14.1V before dropping to 13.8V for float
Five different charging options; Five very different results.
So any conclusions?
The choice of what capacity charger to go for depends of how large a battery bank you have and how quick a recharge you need
As can be seen from the Graphs, the 20A charger will take twice as long as the 40A charger to get to Absorption mode but will not take twice as long to fully recharge. As an extreme example, the 20A charger is nominally just around 20% of the capacity of the 95A Mains Charger, but actually completes its charge from 50% to full in just over 70% extra time in my testing (12:30 hours instead of 7:50 hours)
As a point to note, the data I am seeing and from the conversations I have had with B2B manufacturers, you can reckon that for the typical 30A B2B Charger, it will take around 1Hr per 100Ah to go from 50% SOC to completing the bulk charge.
Once the charger goes into Absorption mode, the current starts to drop fairly fast and the actual current capability of the charger becomes much less of a factor.
When selecting the charger, also bear in mind the basic rule of Lead Acid Batteries - you should typically charge at no faster a rate then 0.2C e.g. A maximum of 20A per 100A of battery. Some people and some battery makers recommend 0.1C (10A per 100Ah). My own batteries happen to be ok for 0.25C which is why I set my Multiplus for 95A (0.25C of 380Ah).
So if you have 200Ah of Lead Acid Batteries, you probably want a charger no greater than 40A maximum output for example. You won't see 95A going into the battery for more then a couple of minutes at the most (unlike in my example) with just 200Ah and you would run the risk of excessic charge rate as well. In this case, the case for a B2B over a VSR is much more convincing.
For this reason on Maximum Charge Rates, the opportunity for getting the full usage of a B2B like a CTEK with SmartPass (to give a 100A capability) for the typical Motorhome Battery Bank is very limited I would say.
This chart shows the Current delivery of the different chargers to help illustrate what I am meaning

BT - Summary Current
by David, on Flickr

Lots of info. Well done to anyone who has made it this far! Any questions please shout.
 
Last edited:
One questions Dave, do you have temperature sensors fitted for your B2B's? My Votronic has a different charge plan if no TS fitted and I wonder if this is why your Redarc is dropping to 13.2V as it shows that for mine without a TS
 
The Redarc has a built-in temperature check and if it exceeds a certain temp it will lower the power output to help it cool. But that certain temp is pretty high (can't recall what) and the unit never got that hot I don't think.
(this is the info: The unit will operate optimally below 55°C/130°F with good airflow. At higher temperatures the unit will de-rate output current up to 80°C/ 175°F at which point the unit will turn OFF)
I double-checked the logged test data for the Redarc - it actually went to 13.25V when it went to float. The specs say it should have gone to 13.3V. It does seem a bit low to me.
Redarc make a Lithium compatible version of the B2B. In that version, when set to Li (lithium), float is 13.6V, but the non-Li settings are still 13.3V.
There will be a reason for the low float setting I would think. I am in conversation with Redarc to understand the chargers operation in better detail.

Just talking about voltages, I also mentioned the Ablemail only goes to 14.1V? this is the current default and has been deliberately set to be a safe level for any battery. It can be programmed by the factory to a different level though I've have a few conversations with Ablemail and they are looking into the options in this area.
 
Last edited:
Sorry I mean the temperature sensor on the battery not the B2B. Mine shows a lower charge plane if no TS is fitted, I would guess it just senses a wire though to say if one is fitted.
Both my solar controller and B2B have sensors, I nearly didnt fit it for the B2B but am glad I did now I have checked again
 
Sorry I mean the temperature sensor on the battery not the B2B. Mine shows a lower charge plane if no TS is fitted, I would guess it just senses a wire though to say if one is fitted.
Both my solar controller and B2B have sensors, I nearly didnt fit it for the B2B but am glad I did now I have checked again
No, there are no external temp sensors for any of the "driving" chargers I tested. The Multiplus has one, but I disabled it for the testing so it would provide a constant voltage as set.
 

Users who viewed this discussion (Total:0)

Back
Top