Solar. Battery. Over charging!!!!!!!!

Bailey originally used a single stage charger 20A @ 13.8V which is too high to leave it on all the time particularly with Banner batteries, they need topping up too often, you can relace the original charger with a multistage charger with the same footprint, the charger is in the Power Distribution unit PDU, the one with all the fuses.
I believe they changed it in 2016 but not sure.
You will need to check that your vehicle is getting a charge from Solar it might be thru the PDU so until you check dont connect the second solar battery output to the vehicle. I believe your solar installation was one of the first factory fits.
The wires from the solar should go to the PDU and hence to the leisure batteries.
 
SquirrellCook said:
Halfords are only capable of testing a batteries starting performance.
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With our local Halfords, even that's debatable!!
I'd always suggest to check the levels in open top batteries every 6-8 months and use distilled water.

There is also an old-school tried and tested method which is normally a good one for leisure battery testing (this can also be done if you've removed the battery from the van):
  • Fully charge the batteries over a good 24hr period (this guarantees they are ready to go).
  • Unplug from hook-up and if possible remove the fuse from your solar system if applicable.
  • Disconnect both negative terminals of the batteries and check the voltage after a 30 minute period. This should give you your baseline voltage with no external influence from either your solar of anything running off the batteries in the back of the van (sometimes things like PCU's will takes small amounts of power even when isolated/turned off). If at this point your batteries are below 12.6V. it's probably a sign it's on it's way out.
  • After at least 12 hrs, check the voltage. Again the battery voltage shouldn't have dropped anything more than say 0.2 volts, meaning sadly they are unable to maintain a charge.
 
Ok. Thanks all for your replies. At the mo I have changed the pos. neg leads to batt 1 pos. batt 2 neg. thanks David. Today had it on ehu for 8 hours. Meter reading then just before disconnect ehu 13.7. Ehu disconnected waited 30 mins then meter reading. 13.9. Don't understand that. sun morning I will take another reading no ehu See what that says. Then sun to tues going 35 miles down the rd. two nights using it. See what the batts say on return. Depending on that I will then try your other suggestions. Thanks again. Brian.
 
Well, forgetting any capacity testing need, your mains charger will never fully charge the batteries no matter how long the charger is on. The quoted 100Ah per battery at 13.7V will be more like 80Ah at a maximum at that charge voltage.
With the general recommendation of not taking the battery below 50% of the QUOTED battery capacity (100Ah), this is leaving you with 30Ah per battery available. A total of just 60Ah! And that is assuming the batteries are still as good as brand new.
This 30Ah of usable capacity on the original battery is probably why another battery was bought and fitted rather then fixing the source issue - poor charging.

I really would recommend a proper battery charger (of around 25A output) is fitted and the batteries also given a couple of cycles of equalisation/recondition charges (whacking in some high voltage of around 15V for a few hours)
 
Thanks all for input. Tried 12v equipment out over 2 days ,at the moment everything seems ok. Will use Moho 3 to 4 days at a time until October .then will hopefully be having 3 week break in Moho, will by then or then have better charging b2b ,solar charging (wildebus hopeful will be contacting you re what I need and possibly like last time calling in for you to fit,if that’s ok with you)
 
You'll be amazed how many customers have called simply not used their vans since lockdown and now realising there is no issues and that they've simply haven't had the chance to use them properly again.
It's also the influx of first timer's too, where they really need to go away and play with the vans before investing in kit. Have around 2-3 per week where we've turned them away and said "go play" before installing kit, as I say you need to establish what you want from the van before you start investing in stuff. My usual saying is when I'm asked "What have you done to yours", I simply reply "A lot, but I'm not you so don't look at my set-up!!", everyone is different!
 
Hi all. Ok a few have recommended I take the lesuire batterys off. And give them a good charge. This I will do. But first. Can I just disconnect the two les batts. Or must I switch/ disconnect anything first. Solar etc. Then when I charge them. Do I need a specific type of charger or will my old 12 v car batt charger do. It was so much easier before I joined this club. I just connected. Disconnected things. Blew fuses. Units. Bought replacements paid had them fitted. Cried over how much it cost. Now I worry should I. What if. Suppose check first. Lol. Have tried Halfords and a few other places that do free batt checks. But as soon as I say Moho leisure batts they say no can't do that. Why is it that all the people who can offer help advice etc. Do not live in the south east. Ah well all for now thanks for all help and advice. Brian.
 
you must disconnect the panels before disconnecting the batteries, not doing so could damage the controller.
Alternatively cover up the solar panel but if you do make sure the wind doesn't blow them off.
 
PeteS said:
you must disconnect the panels before disconnecting the batteries, not doing so could damage the controller.
Alternatively cover up the solar panel but if you do make sure the wind doesn't blow them off.
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This is not my understanding of the situation. I can't see any possible way that leaving the panels connected could damage the controller. What is the basis for your assertion?

It is true to say that some mppt controllers need to be connected to the battery before getting solar input, so that they can tell whether they are connected to 12v or 24v batteries, but disconnecting wouldn't matter.

Even then, I routinely switch one of mine between battery banks in full sun and have never had a problem (except that the clock usually loses about 20 minutes).
Despite being connected to two panels in series, it always seems to settle for 12v output. I've never swapped it between 12v and 24v batteries, though. Perhaps I should try that some time...
 
in h said:
This is not my understanding of the situation. I can't see any possible way that leaving the panels connected could damage the controller. What is the basis for your assertion?

It is true to say that some mppt controllers need to be connected to the battery before getting solar input, so that they can tell whether they are connected to 12v or 24v batteries, but disconnecting wouldn't matter.

Even then, I routinely switch one of mine between battery banks in full sun and have never had a problem (except that the clock usually loses about 20 minutes).
Despite being connected to two panels in series, it always seems to settle for 12v output. I've never swapped it between 12v and 24v batteries, though. Perhaps I should try that some time...
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I did say 'could' . of the three controllers I have had two of them said it was a no no and the third is Victron which would I'm sure allow for it, but your right the initial reason for the sequence is to set it for 12 or 24v.
 
The problem is that instruction manuals are usually written by people who don't know the subject, and are probably not native English speakers. So it is very easy for things to be twisted beyond technical credibility.

What you have done is take some fairly reasonable advice (don't connect with the panels live) and added an irrelevant condition (don't disconnect...) then added emphasis "you must" which is not justified. And so the result is that some poor sap climbs on the roof to cover the panels to no good purpose.
 
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If you don’t disconnect power from the panels you have a live supply don’t you, could spark and may blow controller fuse when reconnecting. I fitted fuses between panels and controller to make it easier for maintenance
 
nabsim said:
If you don’t disconnect power from the panels you have a live supply don’t you, could spark and may blow controller fuse when reconnecting. I fitted fuses between panels and controller to make it easier for maintenance
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In a word, "No"
 
nabsim said:
If you don’t disconnect power from the panels you have a live supply don’t you, could spark and may blow controller fuse when reconnecting. I fitted fuses between panels and controller to make it easier for maintenance
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If the installation is using a Victron SmartSolar controller, than it is very easy to go into Victron Connect and just turn off the Charger component if you are doing work to the system on the battery side. That is the method I use to disable the panels (typically when doing some evaluation/testing and don't want any solar input).
Obviously that is not a lot of good if you don't have that feature - or you are removing the controller itself. In that case you could use a fuse as a 'disconnect switch' for convenience, but it shouldn't blow just by connecting the panel ever.

The comment about a controller needs to know about if the battery system is 12V or 24V is probably the most relevant reason for making sure the Battery is connected before the Panel - you don't want to be inadvertenty be pushing >24V into a 12V battery! I don't know if this has happened with a controller, but there are enough controllers out there with less than perfect designs that it is a potential risk (also depending on the PV panels fitted)
 
Hi all. No. 35 says in a word no. Does that mean it is ok to leave the leads just lying there whilst batts are removed. And solar still connected. That seems a bit worrying to someone electronic simple like me. And no 37 says 9. That has lost me. Still the new batts seem ok been out twice for a 3 day and a 4 day Got home wed. . Left Moho on drive Went out sat am with meter. Batts read 14.30. And 14.29. So I presume that is ok. Thanks all. Brian
 
Carrotts said:
Hi all. No. 35 says in a word no. Does that mean it is ok to leave the leads just lying there whilst batts are removed. And solar still connected.
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Yes. It is absolutely fine to disconnect the batteries when the sun is shining on the solar panels.

Don't leave the wire ends where they can short against anything or each other (even though it would do no harm to a well-designed controller, we don't know if your solar controller is well-designed).

Just wrap them in a bit of tape, or some other way to insulate them (an empty matchbox each would do).

Perhaps #35 is saying "no" in numerical German, or perhaps it was a mistake?
 
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