Storage Frustration!

wildebus

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I have a couple of small exterior lockers in my motorhome, but the only one of any size is at the back - but access is a bit compromised due to the towbar

Rear Locker and Towbar by David, on Flickr
The whole door has to be removed rather than just lifted up.

I thought I might use that to keep stuff I would rarely need/use (for example Levelling Ramps, spare Thetford Cassette) and use a back box on the Thule Load Carrier for the regular stuff (Chairs, BBQ, etc) for easier access.
So enter the 'Papoose' (a Fiamma Ultrabox)

Papoose
by David, on Flickr

But when I tried to put stuff in it, like the chairs, the blooming things don't fit :( Bang goes that plan :rolleyes:
 
David, if I'm seeing this correctly, if it is the tow ball and the bracket sitting on top of the horizontal box section, remove ball and grind of the bracket using a cutting disc, unless you plan to actually use the tow bar to tow?
 
We had storage problems with our chairs on our old van .
I put the chairs in water proof bags and sat then between the van back wall and bike rack. With straps and a lock in 4 years no one ever tried take then.
 
The towbar has two important purposes....
1) As a Bumper - so the option of a removable ball would not keep that :( (also could be handy as ground scraping protection). For that protection reason, I leave the bar on all the time even when I have no intention of using the ball for a while.
2) I use both a Trailer and a Load Carrier on occasions - so keeping the bar and removing the ball and bracket would be a pain. I did wonder about removng the upper bracket (only there to support a higher ball as far as I can see?) but it is the actual bar that the hinged lid would foul on anyway.

Like I said, I *can* still use it, but it is a bit of a faff compared to just unlocking the door and lifting on the hinges

Open Locker by David, on Flickr

What I really need is one of those cantilever type hinge affairs that you see on big Multi-Million dollar American RV Coaches to work with the slideouts but think that could be an expensive bit of engineering :D

We had storage problems with our chairs on our old van .
I put the chairs in water proof bags and sat then between the van back wall and bike rack. With straps and a lock in 4 years no one ever tried take then.
I have done that with windbreaks and the like which are just too long to fit anyway but I would always be concerned about getting nicked, even foundlessly.
 
Is it possible to remove horizontal rear bar from from the outriggers bolted to chassis, drop to clear storage door then re weld?

Here is the setup on my bus to eliminate/reduce damage if bottoming out, which works, came into play last week on an awkward road. What you see is an industrial type steel roller.
IMG_3728.jpeg
 
Is it possible to remove horizontal rear bar from from the outriggers bolted to chassis, drop to clear storage door then re weld?
Yup, but TBH too much work/cost for the benefit. (for a chap like you with a welding workshop, it would be a hours job while having a cuppa. very difference for me :) )
Here is the setup on my bus to eliminate/reduce damage if bottoming out, which works, came into play last week on an awkward road. What you see is an industrial type steel roller.
View attachment 66565
Handy - but my concern would be more about other road users rather than the road itself.
 
Not much help to you at this time, if situ is same for you when I return late June, I’m happy to have a look and do a fix for your, FOC.
 
Could you change the hinges to a kind of lift and swing type? Not sure if the hinges here would do the job but perhaps you could find similar ?
On the original panel door obviously...
K ;)
 
There are two ways to clear the bar that I can think of, both 'inspired' by US RV Coaches ....

This one comes out only a short way before going up. I can imagine this being tricky and expensive to do

This next one intrigues me. I could imagine the door could be adapted by cutting across and adding a piano hinge and wouldn't need adapting the normal top hinges. Have to have something added to keep it all aligned when closed I think.
Could be awkward if the mod goes wrong and locker door is not usable any more. If I knew about fibreglass moulding I might try and make a replica door to try this with.
 
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Another thought on this. Look at adding another two locks on the width near the top, so the whole door can lift away when access is required?
 
Another thought on this. Look at adding another two locks on the width near the top, so the whole door can lift away when access is required?
Hi,
This is essentially what I do (as per my last photo) by lifting away the whole door. I think, if I understand you correctly?

I'm just having a wee moan about the fact I have to remove the entire door when I want to access rather than simply open it.
It was quite cleverly adapted by the previous owner. If the towbar is not fitted, the door hinges up at the top, and if the towbar is fitted, the door can be removed by pulling two pins. But it is still a bit of a faff compared to just opening a door of course.
 
I'm just jealous of those folk with the nice big garages at the back where you can load loads of gear in and it is like a Tardis! :D
 
if its the ball that is the obstruction fit one of those ball drop plates to lower the ball and grind off the support on top of towbar
 
I can understand why people are commenting about the ball bit maybe being the problem. I initially thought this as well.
So thinking the taller bit of the ball area was stopping the door hinging, is it serving any purpose anyway?

I would think the only reason this is present is if you need the ball fitted higher? and if not that whole section could be cut away (I am happy enough cutting away metal. It is welding it back I have the problem with! :D )

IMG_20230401_094519_791
by David, on Flickr

And this photo shows that the door does indeed foul on that

IMG_20230401_094243_149
by David, on Flickr

But .... even it that were gone, the door still fouls on the entire bar itself

IMG_20230401_094315_861
by David, on Flickr

It is a close thing. If the bar was maybe 3" or even maybe 2" further out there would be just enough clearance. Or if it were slightly lower, or a combination of the two? If this towbar was made for this particualt model of Motorhome, I bet it would be that bit longer and/or lower.
Now I personally am not in a position to cut and reweld ( and many thanks, Runnach for your offer to have a look), but I wonder if I could actually redo the mounting holes so it is actually fitted further outward to the rear?
This is the plate that goes to the chassis and bolts onto it with three bolts each side
IMG_20230401_101012_748 by David, on Flickr
The plate goes against a cross-member at the end - does that provide any strength when bar is loaded which would be lost if moved back and away from it?
If I made three new holes for the bolts, I would be closer to the end with one of them, but actually closer to the centre with the two others, so strength not compromised I am summerising? Or extend this plate with a piece at the end so it can be fitted further away but still remains butted up at the 'inboard' end?

I would be very interested in the opinion of those who know about metal structures and strength and the impact of changing things to see if just drilling three holes in different places would cause any problems? (just a note about towbar usage ... used 99% of the time as a "deterrent bumper", and when ball used, it is either for a load carrier hanging off it, or a small 'garden' trailer with max weight 600kg but usually way less than than)



This post was initially just to express some annoyance, but maybe there is a fairly neat solution?
 
I would just take bar off and get it altered to sit further out .
After all its just a bit of more money in the money pit we all love..🤣
 

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