Toilet flush dripping

Geek

Full Member

Messages
42
I still haven’t located any switch to turn the pump on and off. Not sure that there is one
There almost certainly isn't one. Each tap has a switch to turn the pump on. Systems that have a pressure switch to control the pump usually have a switch. Ones with tap switches don't need one: they don't have the unreliability of the pressure switch and the danger of small leaks emptying the water tank into the lockers.
 

St3v3

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Messages
1,469
There almost certainly isn't one. Each tap has a switch to turn the pump on. Systems that have a pressure switch to control the pump usually have a switch.

If there is pressure forcing water past the solenoid, it wouldn't be a bad assumption to say it's a pressure system rather than microswitch.
 

Geek

Full Member

Messages
42
If there is pressure forcing water past the solenoid, it wouldn't be a bad assumption to say it's a pressure system rather than microswitch.
I've never seen a Hymer of that era that had a crappy pressure-switch system.
A microswitch system has pressure all the time unless there's a big leak, and this is just a small leak
 

Ladyfreespirit

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Messages
15
Hi Geek, thank you for your help. Is there a way to just stop the water from getting to the toilet permanently? I can easily flush using a cup of water, if so?
 

Geek

Full Member

Messages
42
When this problem appeared on my van, I was able to identify the hose leading to the flush mechanism: it was visible inside the cassette compartment, just next to the inline fuse.

I simply clamped it shut with a mole wrench. That was very inconvenient, though. Had to remove it each time to change the cassette.

So I replaced it with two strips of steel bolted together to keep the hose squashed. That did the trick whilst I waited for the Slow Boat to bring the new valve.

After fixing it, I ordered two spare valves. That was maybe not a smart move, because the original has never given a moment's trouble.
 

Trigger

Full Member

Messages
427
Simple procedure to fit an in line switch, just locate the 12v feed wires to whatever you want to isolate cut them and fit a switch between the wires , extend the wires [cables ] if needed to fit switch in a convenient position Job done ???
 

Trigger

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Messages
427
Hi Geek, thank you for your help. Is there a way to just stop the water from getting to the toilet permanently? I can easily flush using a cup of water, if so?
Just pull this fuse out , it controls the power to the flush or just disconnect the live and neutral wires and insulate them with electrical tape ? The fuse is shown here in PINK ?

IMG-20210624-102310.jpg
 

Geek

Full Member

Messages
42
The problem is not that the solendoid valve is switched on when it shouldn't be. The problem is that the solenoid valve is leaking when it is switched off. Adding a switch or cutting the wires is just destructive, not helpful.
Even if there was a reason to disconnect the power, the way to do it is simply to remove the inline fuse.
 

bazzybabes

Full Member

Messages
72
I agree with Geek.
You need to replace the faulty valve.
This shows how it's done:


Main problem is sourcing a new valve. Try ebay.
 

Geek

Full Member

Messages
42
Finally downloaded it!
[Later] I love the way it glibly says "N Replace the two bowl retainers" without mentioning that this is almost impossible and that it will involve a protracted wrestling match with the one at the back of the hole.
I tried to get that to fit in various different ways. Wish I could remember which of them eventually worked.
 
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Geek

Full Member

Messages
42
This why I would only fit a toilet with it's own independent water supply.
I used to have one with that. It was an pain. When it ran out, you had to run the shower hose out of the window to fill it up from the main tank.

I prefer plumbed in water, though if you buy a motorhome, you get what's installed.
 

Trigger

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Messages
427
https://ibb.co/VvtPFP2 I have already stated that it is easier to remove the complete toilet assembly than try to work at it from inside the toilet cassette holding area, only 4 screws hold the toilet in place and a push fit bracket. All parts needed to replace the guts of the flush system are readily available on E Bay and other places, I replaced the complete flush parts that live under the toilet bowl for £75 including new hoses and clips, there were no clips used in the original assembly, just push on hoses ? I was able to give the complete toilet and surrounds a deep clean without it being in situ so a good job done.
 

Geek

Full Member

Messages
42
https://ibb.co/VvtPFP2 I have already stated that it is easier to remove the complete toilet assembly than try to work at it from inside the toilet cassette holding area, only 4 screws hold the toilet in place and a push fit bracket. All parts needed to replace the guts of the flush system are readily available on E Bay and other places, I replaced the complete flush parts that live under the toilet bowl for £75 including new hoses and clips, there were no clips used in the original assembly, just push on hoses ? I was able to give the complete toilet and surrounds a deep clean without it being in situ so a good job done.
Sadly, the one on my van isn't that easy to get out. But in retrospect, it still might have been worth the effort.

Mie definitely had clips on the hoses, though it may have gained them in a previous repair
 
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