Battery charging

Bosch/varta power frame are good but dont take them down below about 30% so the more you can fill the better,as for chargers thats a mine field depending on whether you have a smart alt or standard one,if changing go for a 3/5 stage maintenance unit on old type alt but newer models will require a B2B unit.
Numax and some cheap chinese units are ok.View attachment 42170

Can you add the link for that charger above. I purchased a 7 stage charger recently if for charging off vehicle, I'm very impressed with that, £33.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-2-4-...e=STRK:MEBIDX:IT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

I need to look at the charger in the MH as that appears to run at 14.7v which is to high for long periods. It doesn't matter at the moment as I hardly ever connect to 240v, but I'm moving so I might soon.
 
Please don't.
That is only good for testing the starting capacity of a battery. Utterly useless for testing the charging circuits, which is what we are looking at right now, and almost entirely useless for testing leisure batteries that aere not designed to give starting currents. The test that Halfords did will have used a device like this: they really are only good for testing starter batteries, and even then they are not all that reliable.

I do agree about getting a digital multimeter, but for £5 to £10 that's the only sort you will see.

Have you used on of these?
 
......I need to look at the charger in the MH as that appears to run at 14.7v which is to high for long periods. It doesn't matter at the moment as I hardly ever connect to 240v, but I'm moving so I might soon.
When you say 14.7V, is that generally or right now?
Asking as the colder the battery, the higher the voltage it usually likes for charging, and if you have a temperature sensor on the charger you will see a higher voltage in the winter then in summer. For example, my battery charger is set to do a 14.4V charge on my AGM bank, but a few hours ago when the charger came on it was putting out 14.82V as the batteries are close to freezing (it can be a bit disconcerting to see such high voltages until you remember the temperature!)
 
I need to look at the charger in the MH as that appears to run at 14.7v which is to high for long periods.
It should go to 14.7v or so for a few hours before dropping back to 13.7v That's part of being a 7-stage charger.
 
If you’re like me,a lot of this stuff goes over your head. All you want is to have enough leccy to get you out for three or four days without worrying. If you pm Dave ( Wildebus) I’m sure he’ll talk you through it without blinding you with science. He helped me no end with my B2B.
Also I know someone who could help you with your gas issues. That would need a pm to me.
After a long year, I think I’ve got my power sorted ?
 
When you say 14.7V, is that generally or right now?
Asking as the colder the battery, the higher the voltage it usually likes for charging, and if you have a temperature sensor on the charger you will see a higher voltage in the winter then in summer. For example, my battery charger is set to do a 14.4V charge on my AGM bank, but a few hours ago when the charger came on it was putting out 14.82V as the batteries are close to freezing (it can be a bit disconcerting to see such high voltages until you remember the temperature!)

Reading this with interest and your post has set my mind at rest.
Switched my Ctek on after lunch and when I checked the voltage it was on 14.9 Volts, not measured with a multimeter just what the Victron direct app on my iPad showed.
I will keep an eye on it over the next few hours but I assume the Ctek temp sensor is adjusting the charge voltage to compensate for the near freezing temp.
 
Reading this with interest and your post has set my mind at rest.
Switched my Ctek on after lunch and when I checked the voltage it was on 14.9 Volts, not measured with a multimeter just what the Victron direct app on my iPad showed.
I will keep an eye on it over the next few hours but I assume the Ctek temp sensor is adjusting the charge voltage to compensate for the near freezing temp.
I would think so as the CTEK is a quality piece of kit. Some Chargers have a sensor on a long lead and go to a dedicated input (that is what I have on my Mains Charger for example); Some others have a built-in temp sensor (that is what I have on my B2B); And other don't compensate at all.
You will probably also see the Float Voltage and Storage Voltage (if the charger has that mode) higher then the Charger Manual might suggest for the same reason.
 
This powabloc gel has lots of advantages, read the info on it, 6 years warranty, 2000 cycles, ish, charges quicker than a flat gel plate battery. There are other batteries that charge faster, AGM, EFB, and probably even just your basic battery. Some batteries only cycle 70 times and you will be replacing them in a couple of years.
The spec says "2000 cycles to 50% DOD" and that isn't a guarantee or an estimate - it says "max", meaning it will be less. A lot less, I suspect.
Don't get me wrong: it looks like a good battery, and at 31Kg for 100Ah it passes my "heavy" test, but even 1000 cycles is way beyond what you can expect.
I would certainly consider it if I was looking to buy a battery.
 
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I would think so as the CTEK is a quality piece of kit. Some Chargers have a sensor on a long lead and go to a dedicated input (that is what I have on my Mains Charger for example); Some others have a built-in temp sensor (that is what I have on my B2B); And other don't compensate at all.
You will probably also see the Float Voltage and Storage Voltage (if the charger has that mode) higher then the Charger Manual might suggest for the same reason.

Yes, it is an 8 stage Ctek and at present on absorption.
I’ll check later when it should be on float, it will be interesting to see what the voltage is.
 
Let's start by pointing out that you are correct.

There is a lot of contradictory advice out there, and this is probably about the best place to ask. The trouble is few people actually understand what they re writing about, and are just repeating what they've been told. Some are trying to justify their choices.

You can skip this next paragraph unless you really want to know:
I think the 1+1 = 2.7 is referring to useable capacity. If you need (say) 60Ah (that's the equivalent of 1 amp for 60 hours or 2 amps for 30 hours, but it is not the equivalent of 60 amps for 1 hour - if you take high currents, the battery capacity is MUCH smaller. Leisure batteries are rated on the assumption that you take the power over 20 hours or longer. It gets worse: Normally you can only charge a battery up to about 90% full in a motorhome. You should not discharge it below 50% full, so the useable capacity is about 40% of its official rating. So if you did want 60Ah of power from a battery, it needs to be a 150Ah battery bank, at least.

You probably do need to replace the batteries, but best to fix any suspected charging problems first. Running a battery down even once will damage it. Do it a half dozen times and you need to start looking for a replacement. So use the old, probably buggered, batteries as your guinea pigs and only fit new batteries when you know you have a non-hostile charging environment.

First thing to do is buy a multimeter. You can get them very cheaply, but it is probably best getting one that costs between £5 and £10.

While you are waiting for it to arrive, take the batteries out and charge them in the house (or on the charger in the van if you have hookup where it is parked) for at least 24 hours to get them fairly full. Put the batteries back into the motorhome and measure the volltage across the battery terminals. See if it is what the panel display says.

Start the engine and see if the voltage goes up - it should, both on the panel and on the multimeter. That tells whether the charging circuit is working at all.

Next step: Leave the batteries with nothing connected (disconnect one terminal on each battery to be sure) for one hour and measure the voltage across each battery's teminals (separately). Then measure the same thing 24 hours later.

Post the voltages here so we can see the position: it should show whether the batteries are self-discharging or not.


LIDL have multi meters on sale right now. £9.99. Its worth getting one for future use.
 
The spec says "2000 cycles to 50% DOD" and that isn't a guarantee or an estimate - it says "max", meaning it will be less. A lot less, I suspect.
Don't get me wrong: it looks like a good battery, and at 31Kg for 100Ah it passes my "heavy" test, but even 1000 cycles is way beyond what you can expect.
I would certainly consider it if I was looking to buy a battery.
I was looking at those when I was configuring my setup and was close to buying but decided to get Leoch AGM ones instead as more suitable for inverter use as well as being significantly cheaper (with the plan to move to Lithium after a few years when those prices have dropped to more affordable levels).
 
Does that remember its settings if the mains goes off, or do you have to press buttons to get it running after you connect the power?
Yes it remembers the settings, so fine if power cuts off, and when you connect to another battery it doesn't start straight away it brings the settings for last battery, so you can change if required, if you delay setting it, as soon as you push a button to change settings it cuts out lets you change to whatever then restarts again.
 
Oh that's easy, it's 42, and if you go to the following link it will give you 42 reasons as to why I am correct.;):ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:

I expect I will get 42 people say that I am wrong.:eek:

I think 18 people on Motorhome think you are wrong, and 16 people on Wildcamping thing you are wrong - so yup, that makes ..... :unsure: ..... yup, 42 (y)
 

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