What did you do to your van today?

I checked my gas gauge last week and it was still saying full and i know ive used a bit so today i call in to the garage and refilled it .I got bloody 17.5 ltr in it so i guess the gauge is playing up well thats something else to look at.
Tell the truth yah tight arse your no bothered aboot the reading it's hit the pocket your concern ++++++++probably dipped oor luvelly cris s purse
 
i had to change my sump couple of years ago Eric.
Must have been a metal cover,Jeff? 'Always Sump Tin with a M/Home MOT ...' :rolleyes:

Steve
Took it for it’s MOT today,👍 ok for another year, advisories, leaky sump ( known ford problem) and corroded brake flexi.
M/Home MOT last week was a clean pass; car MOT yesterday was a pass with advisory for rear pads and discs pitted/corroded, mainly because it stands unused for ages, and, since buying the M/Home, we don't tow a caravan, so the rear brakes are rarely, if ever, used. I;ll get the brakes and pads replaced at the next service to keep Tig shipshape; silly to replace them now to sit and corrode in the Winter weather!

Steve
 
With this cold weather decided to get the van safer but keeping my love of control and monitoring 🤓:cool:

The before picture: Kitchen side panel :)
1671046688900.png

And the After picture:
1671046799859.png

Fitted a socket to the side, but not any old socket but one that is controlled by the Cerbo GX and will come on and off based on the room temperature on a sensor that is connected to the Cerbo. The socket is under a worktop overhang so nicely protected against splashing (more so than the 2 sockets over the worktop on the outside wall side).
Put the Heater itself on Max so if the socket is on, the heater will come on.
So still temp controlled, but more precisely maybe? (will come on when temp drops to 2C and go off when it has risen to 4C), but I can also force the heater on remotely via the the web (Victrons VRM system) if I want to warm up the van properly before going out in it maybe?

I also fitted another socket controlled in the same way INSIDE the kitchen cupboard. Reason for this one is maybe to fit a low power Heat pad in the lower section of the cupboard where the water pump is. Thinking a bit of localised heat via something like a 20W pad could be a good idea and as the socket is in the cupboard I can do a permanent installation of the heat pad ready for whenever needed without trailing wires in the way.

PS. This type of temp-controlled socket is still possible without Victron Cerbo type kit. You could get a temp controller to turn a standard socket on and off for under £15. (my socket above is just an ordinary CBE one - it is just a matter of allowing the power to it or not).
 
Must have been a metal cover,Jeff? 'Always Sump Tin with a M/Home MOT ...' :rolleyes:

Steve

M/Home MOT last week was a clean pass; car MOT yesterday was a pass with advisory for rear pads and discs pitted/corroded, mainly because it stands unused for ages, and, since buying the M/Home, we don't tow a caravan, so the rear brakes are rarely, if ever, used. I;ll get the brakes and pads replaced at the next service to keep Tig shipshape; silly to replace them now to sit and corrode in the Winter weather!

Steve
You could say I’ve been gasumped.😬
 
Turned the heating on. Visiting in Ireland. Nippy. View attachment 65202
Minus five, drained down the water systems as the inlet from tank to pump was just about frozen. Plywood along the side of the van to the floor then a fan heater underneath sorted it. Still ok inside with a fan heater and only sleeping in her as visiting daughter and co. To be honest it’s not as much fun as France, Spain and Portugal earlier in the year.
 
I spent 45mins defrosting the windscreen, it was frozen inside and outside.
The van had to go to the garage for New brake pads.
Still the walk back warmed me up.
 
Well it looks like the fridge has went tits up not a clue what up with it .It a waeco 110ltr compressor any suggestions ?
There is power getting to it but nothing is running
 
My waeco in the purple truck had a 10 amp fuse on the pcb , it was the 24v version and a lot bigger in size but you never know
Well it looks like the fridge has went tits up not a clue what up with it .It a waeco 110ltr compressor any suggestions ?
There is power getting to it but nothing is running
 
Popped mi nose in to check mi batterys turned on charger , removed nose . Afternoon job remove snow from windscreen .
 
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I couldn't even get into mine from the drivers door...

Not sure if you can from the photo, but I have ice over the front of the door over to the wing at least 1/2" thick. It would probably do some damage if I tried to open it.
1671112919673.png
Also thick around the arch between door and wing.



Looking quite festive and scandinavian though....
1671113094551.png
 
I couldn't even get into mine from the drivers door...

Not sure if you can from the photo, but I have ice over the front of the door over to the wing at least 1/2" thick. It would probably do some damage if I tried to open it.
View attachment 65245
Also thick around the arch between door and wing.



Looking quite festive and scandinavian though....
View attachment 65246
'I can wait until tomorrow ...' :D

Steve
 
You can twist the themostat switch for 1 to 7 and it makes no diffrence
I took Lee's comment to mean that the fridge was already cold enough [lower than the preset minimum operating temperature] to switch on, but I am not remotely technical, Jeff! Is it worth turning on the hab heating for 1/2 hour or so at the highest heating setting to raise the living area to a toasty temperature [perhaps leaving the fridge door open?] to see whether the fridge will fire up? Bearing in mind that a domestic fridge will keep food at about 4 degrees [IIRC!], the hab area of an unheated Van standing in sub zero temperatures might be enough to stop the Waeco from working for a living!

I apologise now if I'm talking [unscientific] nonsense :D

Steve
 
I took Lee's comment to mean that the fridge was already cold enough [lower than the preset minimum operating temperature] to switch on, but I am not remotely technical, Jeff! Is it worth turning on the hab heating for 1/2 hour or so at the highest heating setting to raise the living area to a toasty temperature [perhaps leaving the fridge door open?] to see whether the fridge will fire up? Bearing in mind that a domestic fridge will keep food at about 4 degrees [IIRC!], the hab area of an unheated Van standing in sub zero temperatures might be enough to stop the Waeco from working for a living!

I apologise now if I'm talking [unscientific] nonsense :D

Steve
That sounds reasonable to me, but I'm not a phick as Steve.
 
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