What did you do to your van today?

Last time I asked(5yrs ago ISH) £50 a wheel if wheel only taken in,Average price to shot blast prime and top coat(powder) Grimsby so not Chelsea prices,used to take all the galvanised bits of my Landys,for shot & re hot dip galv there.
 
wildebus said:
If chipped (and depending how chipped), you could sand down to smooth the transition (on a wheel you really cannot see this kind of effect) and then paint.
Or fill in the chip and paint. I used to use CA (as in superglue) Gel as a filler. The CA Gel with an accelerant is a perfect permanent filler for wheel repairs.
Matching the colour shouldn't be much of an issue either as you just blend and feather it in and again with wheels any slight mismatches are not seen (and the power coaters should hopefully be able to tell you the RAL code of the colour used to give a head start for matching.

Downside of Power Coating for wheels ... And it is NOT what Trev would say (he has a different opinion on its suitability) ... You have to do all the wheels together and it is not a quick job, so you need a way - and a place - to leave your vehicle on stands with no wheels for the duration, plus all the tyres need to be removed, and then put back afterwards, and of course taken to the power coaters and collected again. That £25 I mentioned was for the Power coating. Cost of the tyres removal/refitting, transportation, etc, would be on you. So maybe that is where the higher price came in if that was sorted out for you?
Last time I got some wheels power coated was on my Safari bus, but I drove it to the guy and left it parked in his workshop for a few days while he did all that stuff for me (and while in the workshop on stands, a friend came up from Manchester to do all the Daktari style striping - kill two birds with one stone :) )

Painting can be done virtually while you wait and does not need the tyre removed and so is faster (I would usually deflated and break the bead so can make a proper job of the rims - especially as usually the rim of the wheel that was the bit that needed the fixing .The typical 'chips away' type guy would not do that).
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Yes you do remove the tyre for 2 pack painting, this helps the tyre seal on the rim, we got loads of taxi wheels in for this.
My van wheels were done 10 years back and are just starting to show some blemishes now.
 
trevskoda said:
Yes you do remove the tyre for 2 pack painting, this helps the tyre seal on the rim, we got loads of taxi wheels in for this.
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Nope Trev, you don't have to unless you are repainting the entire wheel.
You can break the bead and then push the tyre back to allow access to the whole rim edge, then reinflate.
Saves the hassle (and cost) of removing the tyre, refitting and potentially rebalancing.

trevskoda said:
My van wheels were done 10 years back and are just starting to show some blemishes now.
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Just been phoning round fir a price on refurbishment of my alloys I've be quoted between £220 and £280 for all four
 
wildebus said:
Seems reasonable to me. (As I used to do this, I am aware of how much time, effort and kit is needed to do this properly and I charged around that price over 10 years ago).
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One price of £260 he said he would powder coat then the other two was spray painted.
 
After a lot of thought about weight etc and talking to people who have done this, I eventually got around to it this weekend. The thought of trying to get that wheel out from under the van beside a busy road filled me with horror as I am getting too old for all that now, just need a hand lifting the wheel up. The bracket I used is a wonderful bit of kit, not the cheapest but it has so much adjustment, I believe it's the only one I could have fitted where I did. It's advertised on eBay now for about £140 I think.

IMG_6872.JPGs-l960 (1).jpgs-l960.jpg
 
Said goodbyes to our old van ....
Started ordering new bits for the new one .
Clicked on to fogstar and they had dropped the price of the 460ah drift to £999.
Bargain. Ordered b2b from alpha ..
..
 
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wildebus said:
Nope Trev, you don't have to unless you are repainting the entire wheel.
You can break the bead and then push the tyre back to allow access to the whole rim edge, then reinflate.
Saves the hassle (and cost) of removing the tyre, refitting and potentially rebalancing.
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How would you shotblast it, tyre must be off.
 
After last evening trying to puzzel out why my van wont start and when it did it only ran for a few mins, so after a we drive out in the car
My brain started to work, home after 5 and went through the fuel sys like a rat up a drain pipe, fault found, loose banjo nut joint at sucking side of the fuel pump, no idea how it came loose, anyway new water/fuel filter fitted and bobs your anty. :)
 
trevskoda said:
How would you shotblast it, tyre must be off.
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did I mention shotblasting anywhere?

Trev, you need to open your mind to the possibities of options and approaches other than the ones YOU do. We don't all drive £50 Skodas, we don't all shotblast wheels.
 
wildebus said:
did I mention shotblasting anywhere?

Trev, you need to open your mind to the possibities of options and approaches other than the ones YOU do. We don't all drive £50 Skodas, we don't all shotblast wheels.
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Weel when of why not as such an easy job and a nice finnish, also stops rim leakage, we used to do lots for a taxi firm.
AS for £50 soda thats way to much, last one cost me a tenner, went 15 years and clocked 314000 miles, thats what i call value for money. :)
 
trevskoda said:
Weel when of why not as such an easy job and a nice finnish, also stops rim leakage,
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I will try and translate ... "Well why not as such an easy job and a nice finish" (I think?)
Is it an easy job when you are doing the work at the vehicle side? And why if you can get a very nice finish WITHOUT farting about removing the tyre and shotblasting and all that rubbish? There is absolutely NO NEED.

I think you muct have specialised in knackered wheels - which is strange considering in Northern Ireland everything dumps their cars when the first MOT is due, so you keep telling us, so not sure how they could get like that :)


trevskoda said:
we used to do lots for a taxi firm.
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Get a different customer.

trevskoda said:
AS for £50 soda thats way to much, last one cost me a tenner, went 15 years and clocked 314000 miles, thats what i call value for money. :)
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£10 to buy. How much to get working again?
 
wildebus said:
I will try and translate ... "Well why not as such an easy job and a nice finish" (I think?)
Is it an easy job when you are doing the work at the vehicle side? And why if you can get a very nice finish WITHOUT farting about removing the tyre and shotblasting and all that rubbish? There is absolutely NO NEED.

I think you muct have specialised in knackered wheels - which is strange considering in Northern Ireland everything dumps their cars when the first MOT is due, so you keep telling us, so not sure how they could get like that :)



Get a different customer.


£10 to buy. How much to get working again?
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Nothing, just dumped the electronic fuel injection/brain and went back to coil egn and a carb.
 
Washed wheels on the Aire to remove brake dust from brakes on all 4 wheels after 31 days ascents/descents. There is/was a squeal from the brakes (the calipers have been stripped and freed off just under 12 months ago, so hoping that the dust removal will restore quiet braking). Also checked tyre pressures for the first time since leaving home at the beginning of March - still sitting at original pressures

The amount of dust that came off with just a wheel cleaning brush and cold water with a dollop of shampoo was amazing, and evidence of the work the brakes have done on this trip!

Steve
 
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